Ok. Here we go. Keep in mind that I AM NOT AN EXPERT in chainsaw use or a tree professional, but I was trained by one decades ago.
I'll start with things that I personally do that fall into the "recommended best practice" category that I'm fully aware are routinely not practiced by others.
1) I always start my saws on the ground (I don't climb with a saw) with the chain brake on and my foot in the right handle. It's the safest way.
2) Second, I always limb on the opposite side of the tree that I'm standing. That way the tree is between me and the saw.
3) I cut with the bottom rear of the bar/chain whenever possible, always checking for things that the tip of the saw can contact and cause a kickback. When cutting with the bottom of the saw, if it starts getting pinched it will pull the saw in rather than spit it out at you.
4) I usually engage the chain brake when moving around with the saw and not actually cutting. Engaging the brake is just a matter of bumping it with your wrist by rotating your left hand. Yes, I always feel like an idiot when I try to start cutting with the brake on, lol. If I haven't engaged the brake I hold the saw facing backwards with my left hand on the top handle only. The reason is that if you have your hand on the right hand handle the throttle safety is disengaged and you could accidentally hit the throttle.
5) I lock my left arm at the elbow when cutting. That way if you do get a kickback the saw will rotate up and over your head rather than into your face, assuming you have enough arm strength.
Now for the "things I saw in the video that can be dangerous" category, other than dropping one tree the wrong way and walking under another while it's falling, which I've already mentioned.
1) Working with brush under foot. You want unobstructed footing and clear paths of egress from the area. Balance and stance are very important!
2) Using your feet to stomp on the wood you're cutting with the saw still running, chain brake off and in close proximity to your legs/feet.
3) Working the saw back and forth in a sawing motion like it's a hand saw. WTF is with that?! That's how you sent that wood chip into your face and that's how you could end up creating a kickback situation. Again, cut with the back of the saw, not the tip whenever possible. Yes, you can rock it back and forth, but there's no reason to be pushing/pulling it back and forth.
4) Sweeping the saw into fine brush. That's how you derailed the chain.
5) Not giving your full attention to what you're doing and being distracted by creating a video. No, I'm not kidding.
6) Cutting all the way through wood that's laying flat on the ground. Prop it up, cut part way and then roll it over to cut the rest of the way or use a sawhorse. A sawhorse is easy to make with a couple of 2 X 4s or 2 X 6s and can be constructed so you can fold it up for transport and storage.
7) Working by yourself with nobody to provide or summon immediate help in case of an emergency.
I'm sure I could keep going. Personally I don't think you have any business doing chainsaw work on other people's properties with your current level of experience and "bad habits". I've been using chainsaws for over 20 years, was trained by and worked for an arborist and have a heavily wooded 34 acre property that I have felled/cleared countless trees on and I still will not drop a tree on someone else's property like the one that you walked under. I'm not insured for it and I'm not a tree professional. Small ornamental trees, fruit trees, saplings and trees that are already down with nothing in the vicinity to damage I will do. Speaking of trees and parts of trees that are already down, they have their own dangers. For storm damage cleanup I use my power pole pruner a lot, at least to start with. Limbs that are under tension can be hard to see and read when they're in a tangle of other limbs and can be deadly if they spring and hit you. It's nice to be able to do it with a "chain saw on a stick" from 10 feet away. :smile:
Oh, one more thing. Not all trees are suitable to be felling with the standard hinge method. That includes dead/rotted trees and some softer woods. Trees with heavy leans and/or curved trunks can also be very tricky.
Tree work is a specialty. It's one thing to cut up wood at your wood pile or take down trees on your own property and entirely another to be taking trees down on someone else's property. IMO, that's best left to professionals/experts or at least those who have been trained by one and are properly insured for the work.
I'll start with things that I personally do that fall into the "recommended best practice" category that I'm fully aware are routinely not practiced by others.
1) I always start my saws on the ground (I don't climb with a saw) with the chain brake on and my foot in the right handle. It's the safest way.
2) Second, I always limb on the opposite side of the tree that I'm standing. That way the tree is between me and the saw.
3) I cut with the bottom rear of the bar/chain whenever possible, always checking for things that the tip of the saw can contact and cause a kickback. When cutting with the bottom of the saw, if it starts getting pinched it will pull the saw in rather than spit it out at you.
4) I usually engage the chain brake when moving around with the saw and not actually cutting. Engaging the brake is just a matter of bumping it with your wrist by rotating your left hand. Yes, I always feel like an idiot when I try to start cutting with the brake on, lol. If I haven't engaged the brake I hold the saw facing backwards with my left hand on the top handle only. The reason is that if you have your hand on the right hand handle the throttle safety is disengaged and you could accidentally hit the throttle.
5) I lock my left arm at the elbow when cutting. That way if you do get a kickback the saw will rotate up and over your head rather than into your face, assuming you have enough arm strength.
Now for the "things I saw in the video that can be dangerous" category, other than dropping one tree the wrong way and walking under another while it's falling, which I've already mentioned.
1) Working with brush under foot. You want unobstructed footing and clear paths of egress from the area. Balance and stance are very important!
2) Using your feet to stomp on the wood you're cutting with the saw still running, chain brake off and in close proximity to your legs/feet.
3) Working the saw back and forth in a sawing motion like it's a hand saw. WTF is with that?! That's how you sent that wood chip into your face and that's how you could end up creating a kickback situation. Again, cut with the back of the saw, not the tip whenever possible. Yes, you can rock it back and forth, but there's no reason to be pushing/pulling it back and forth.
4) Sweeping the saw into fine brush. That's how you derailed the chain.
5) Not giving your full attention to what you're doing and being distracted by creating a video. No, I'm not kidding.
6) Cutting all the way through wood that's laying flat on the ground. Prop it up, cut part way and then roll it over to cut the rest of the way or use a sawhorse. A sawhorse is easy to make with a couple of 2 X 4s or 2 X 6s and can be constructed so you can fold it up for transport and storage.
7) Working by yourself with nobody to provide or summon immediate help in case of an emergency.
I'm sure I could keep going. Personally I don't think you have any business doing chainsaw work on other people's properties with your current level of experience and "bad habits". I've been using chainsaws for over 20 years, was trained by and worked for an arborist and have a heavily wooded 34 acre property that I have felled/cleared countless trees on and I still will not drop a tree on someone else's property like the one that you walked under. I'm not insured for it and I'm not a tree professional. Small ornamental trees, fruit trees, saplings and trees that are already down with nothing in the vicinity to damage I will do. Speaking of trees and parts of trees that are already down, they have their own dangers. For storm damage cleanup I use my power pole pruner a lot, at least to start with. Limbs that are under tension can be hard to see and read when they're in a tangle of other limbs and can be deadly if they spring and hit you. It's nice to be able to do it with a "chain saw on a stick" from 10 feet away. :smile:
Oh, one more thing. Not all trees are suitable to be felling with the standard hinge method. That includes dead/rotted trees and some softer woods. Trees with heavy leans and/or curved trunks can also be very tricky.
Tree work is a specialty. It's one thing to cut up wood at your wood pile or take down trees on your own property and entirely another to be taking trees down on someone else's property. IMO, that's best left to professionals/experts or at least those who have been trained by one and are properly insured for the work.
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