steering bushing confusion

Oldaarpy

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Good to know I wasn't sold an two year old machine. Thank you. Tom
 

wekjo

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Short story is, I own a 2015 GT52XLSi. The steering was real sloppy so I added a washer to the top of the steering stem and that helped. I checking out the steering bushing - it was worn and loose. That bushing was a round white plastic job but the on line diagrams shows a B2 bomber shaped thing with bolt holes in it. The closest machine to mine that had a round bushing was a GT48XLSi and that had a black bushing 195227 so I ordered one. It's sloppier than the broken one. So can I asume 195228 is the correct one before I order that one or am I going to have to drill and install the B2? The 228 supposedly has a smaller diameter hole....so the "garden tractors' have smaller steering colums than the cheaper lawn tractors? In the mean time the color doesn't mean much as I've black bushing labeled with both numbers and same with white. Does anyone make a more permanent bushing? I'm a tad confused.
Off point but I had one of those 100 series JD lawn tractors made in the first decade of this century. Like most of them it had really sloppy steering, needing rebuilt every two years. I used to think they were made under JD license by AYP which seems to make everything under license. I guess however they are/were made in the old "Scotts" JD factory and had AYP "engineering" which explains why they too had/have that bullshit steering arrangement. Anyhow on one of my rebuilds I noted that mid-way between the bushings at the top and bottom of the column, the column itself passed through a hole about 1" in diameter in the metal frame or body of the machine. So in addition to replacing the bushings, tie rods, the column gear, and the sector gear, again; I drilled out that hole, wire-wheeled the column clean and stuck a brass bushing in there which really stablized the shaft. I later sold the thing to a mower repair guy who was very impressed with the upgrade/repair. Yes, you will will have to lube it. I then bought a Broadmoor, Simplicity does not use that ridiculous steering arrangement. So if your steering column passes through a hole in the metal you may want to ponder that issue before sticking it back together.
 

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Brucewayne

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Short story is, I own a 2015 GT52XLSi. The steering was real sloppy so I added a washer to the top of the steering stem and that helped. I checking out the steering bushing - it was worn and loose. That bushing was a round white plastic job but the on line diagrams shows a B2 bomber shaped thing with bolt holes in it. The closest machine to mine that had a round bushing was a GT48XLSi and that had a black bushing 195227 so I ordered one. It's sloppier than the broken one. So can I asume 195228 is the correct one before I order that one or am I going to have to drill and install the B2? The 228 supposedly has a smaller diameter hole....so the "garden tractors' have smaller steering colums than the cheaper lawn tractors? In the mean time the color doesn't mean much as I've black bushing labeled with both numbers and same with white. Does anyone make a more permanent bushing? I'm a tad confused.
You may want to also check the grease fittings out at the wheels. If grease does not enter then you may need to disassemble to free up grease flow. If there is no flow of course the binding will create additional load on the bushings that are shot and more difficulty turning the steering column.
 
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Redneck engineer weighing in here.

I had a lower bushing wear out on a mower years ago. I found out when the teeth on the steering gear started jumping.
I didn't want to take the time to disassemble everything so I wrapped a piece of 1/4" flat plastic around the shaft (using vise grips) and drove it down into the hole where the proper part is supposed to be bolted. It wasn't perfect, but I had it installed in minutes, the teeth didn't jump anymore, and it lasted until I accidentally caught the mower on fire a couple years later ( :rolleyes: oops).
 
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Vic bellan

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Short story is, I own a 2015 GT52XLSi. The steering was real sloppy so I added a washer to the top of the steering stem and that helped. I checking out the steering bushing - it was worn and loose. That bushing was a round white plastic job but the on line diagrams shows a B2 bomber shaped thing with bolt holes in it. The closest machine to mine that had a round bushing was a GT48XLSi and that had a black bushing 195227 so I ordered one. It's sloppier than the broken one. So can I asume 195228 is the correct one before I order that one or am I going to have to drill and install the B2? The 228 supposedly has a smaller diameter hole....so the "garden tractors' have smaller steering colums than the cheaper lawn tractors? In the mean time the color doesn't mean much as I've black bushing labeled with both numbers and same with white. Does anyone make a more permanent bushing? I'm a tad confused.
Measure shaft size diameter , use a vice grip pliers as calipers, & go to tractor supply and get a brass shoulderewd bushing & install ! may have to give a couple drops of oil occasionally !
 

Cajun power

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just for reference, to improve steering, the friction happens where the load exist...this is counter intuitive to some. the bearing at the LOWER end of the steering bushing is where all the weight/pressure/force exists. I don't know if this helps, but after briefly reading OP, I noticed you replaced the bushing at the top. Perhaps that is the reason you see no difference? just a suggestion.
 

Oldaarpy

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And the tale continues.....I bought two of the white (228), they went down the shaft with a little help. I cut a piece of 1" pvc to the correct angle to tap them in. The first one refused to go in the hole and broke...may have been my fault as there was some dirt residue around the hole. Cleaned it all up and slathered white grease on everything, carefully lined up everything....and the second adapter refused to go in and broke. So, I know this won't work, I've taken a steel washer and drilled a 5/8 eliptical hole and JB welded it to the black (227) which I put back in. I made sure where I drilled wasn't sharp tp avoid damaging the steering column. I'm letting the JB Weld set for 24hrs. I don't really know what else to do. Maybe I should have softened the plastic with a heat gun first?
 
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Oldaarpy

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And the tale continues.....I bought two of the white (228), they went down the shaft with a little help. I cut a piece of 1" pvc to the correct angle to tap them in. The first one refused to go in the hole and broke...may have been my fault as there was some dirt residue around the hole. Cleaned it all up and slathered white grease on everything, carefully lined up everything....and the second adapter refused to go in and broke. So, I know this won't work, I've taken a steel washer and drilled a 5/8 eliptical hole and JB welded it to the black (227) which I put back in. I made sure where I drilled wasn't sharp tp avoid damaging the steering column. I'm letting the JB Weld set for 24hrs. I don't really know what else to do. Maybe I should have softened the plastic with a heat gun first?
Added a second coating of JB Weld last night and today it all seems strong and a whole less sloppy. (The steering still works so I've got that going for me.) I won't know how strong until I actually use it. The black 227 fit the cross member hole but was too big for the steering column, The white 228 was the correct size for the column but too big for the hole in the cross member. Is there a third bushing? Tom
 
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