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steering bushing confusion

#1

O

Oldaarpy

Short story is, I own a 2015 GT52XLSi. The steering was real sloppy so I added a washer to the top of the steering stem and that helped. I checking out the steering bushing - it was worn and loose. That bushing was a round white plastic job but the on line diagrams shows a B2 bomber shaped thing with bolt holes in it. The closest machine to mine that had a round bushing was a GT48XLSi and that had a black bushing 195227 so I ordered one. It's sloppier than the broken one. So can I asume 195228 is the correct one before I order that one or am I going to have to drill and install the B2? The 228 supposedly has a smaller diameter hole....so the "garden tractors' have smaller steering colums than the cheaper lawn tractors? In the mean time the color doesn't mean much as I've black bushing labeled with both numbers and same with white. Does anyone make a more permanent bushing? I'm a tad confused.


#2

R

Rivets

Is this the part you’re looking for. https://www.partstree.com/parts/husqvarna-585029802/


#3

O

Oldaarpy

If I use that part (the B2) I'll have to drill holes to mount it. What came out was a white version of this cheap plastic thing. The part you showed is what it should have but doesn't.....I think. That part looks metal. maybe I'd be better off trying to make that work if it is!

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#4

StarTech

StarTech

If the op is referring to the upper bushing it is...

1700875580498.png


#5

R

Rivets

Star, you are correct. I was assuming the OP was looking for the lower bushing, as he said he would have to do some drilling.


#6

O

Oldaarpy

I wasn't aware there were two bushings! I'd better crawl under the mower again. All the diagrams I've seen only mention one. Well, as long as you guys can figure out what I'm talking about......Thankyou.


#7

O

Oldaarpy

This is what I'm finding that doesn't even show the part I need. https://www.messicks.com/hus/121777


#8

O

Oldaarpy

This is what I'm pulling up on different sites and it may or may not mention bottom steering support but none that I've found mention the specific upper support or bushing that I need.

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#9

B

bertsmobile1

Go back to the parts list for the whole mower and check the diagram for the dash panel & controls .
The logic fails me but some times the upper bush is shown as part of the dash not part of the steering and on a couple of lists I found them on the Frame & Fittings page
Probably makes sense to the drafts person or because they are fitted by the Dash fitting team or they come preinstalled in the dash .


#10

StarTech

StarTech

To make the look-ups even more problematic is that inexperience doesn't take into account the different variations that a particular model might have as with this one. There is at least 3 variations of this model so you must use the long model number from the serial number tag.

1700919822485.png

Now as the two bushings one is listed the frame section and the other is in the steering section.


#11

O

Oldaarpy

WHOA! This was sold to me, by a dealer, as a 2015 unit in 2015. The model number behind the seat has the numbers 178-00. Under the hood the model numbers end at 178. Looks like it was at least two years old when I bought it. I'm not very pleased if this is true! Found the part and 227 should be the correct upper bushing for this mower. However, it's so sloppy it can't be correct. Is the 228 smaller? Maybe I should just bite bullet and buy one. Thank. Tom


#12

StarTech

StarTech

Actually you got a 960430178-01 since it is the only one that use the white (natural) plastic bushing. Sometimes the labels are off but normally the serial number tag has the right revision listed.

As age you can cross reference the engine's date code if Briggs or the serial number if Kohler and they are normal installed within a few month of engine build date.


#13

O

Oldaarpy

Actually you got a 9604301178-01 since it is the only one that use the white (natural) plastic bushing. Sometimes the labels are off but normally the serial number tag has the right revision listed.

As age you can cross reference the engine's date code if Briggs or the serial number if Kohler and they are normal installed within a few month of engine build date.
It's a Briggs. 141222YG. 2014,Dec.22? And 228 would be the right bushing?


#14

StarTech

StarTech

IF that is the date then the mower is a 2015 model.

As for the 532195228 bushing it is for a 5/8 (16MM) shaft provided I am measuring the in house bushing correctly which is little hard with the slanted through hole.


#15

O

Oldaarpy

IF that is the date then the mower is a 2015 model.

As for the 532195228 bushing it is for a 5/8 (16MM) shaft provided I am measuring the in house bushing correctly which is little hard with the slanted through hole.
Must be the labels are wrong on the tractor. I really appreciate all the help. Tom


#16

O

Oldaarpy

I measured the steering column, it's 5/8 so I ordered two of the white 228. Thanks again.


#17

B

bertsmobile1

You can not date a mower by the engine date
Usually the engine will be the same year as the tractor or the year earlier but not uncommon to find a new mower with an engine that is from 2, 3 or even 4 years earlier .
Happens when initial engine deliveries are late or the run out of engines before the end of the season.


#18

StarTech

StarTech

Bert Husqvarna here usually install the engines within a month or two of receiving them. And some mower serial numbers a few days time. But the OP post the mower serial number then I might be able to decode it.

Now different manufactures do have different ways of generating the serial numbers but Husqvarna usually does it the finish rolls off the assembly line.


#19

O

Oldaarpy

serial no 022415A003598


#20

StarTech

StarTech

Born on February 24, 2015.


#21

O

Oldaarpy

Good to know I wasn't sold an two year old machine. Thank you. Tom


#22

W

wekjo

Short story is, I own a 2015 GT52XLSi. The steering was real sloppy so I added a washer to the top of the steering stem and that helped. I checking out the steering bushing - it was worn and loose. That bushing was a round white plastic job but the on line diagrams shows a B2 bomber shaped thing with bolt holes in it. The closest machine to mine that had a round bushing was a GT48XLSi and that had a black bushing 195227 so I ordered one. It's sloppier than the broken one. So can I asume 195228 is the correct one before I order that one or am I going to have to drill and install the B2? The 228 supposedly has a smaller diameter hole....so the "garden tractors' have smaller steering colums than the cheaper lawn tractors? In the mean time the color doesn't mean much as I've black bushing labeled with both numbers and same with white. Does anyone make a more permanent bushing? I'm a tad confused.
Off point but I had one of those 100 series JD lawn tractors made in the first decade of this century. Like most of them it had really sloppy steering, needing rebuilt every two years. I used to think they were made under JD license by AYP which seems to make everything under license. I guess however they are/were made in the old "Scotts" JD factory and had AYP "engineering" which explains why they too had/have that bullshit steering arrangement. Anyhow on one of my rebuilds I noted that mid-way between the bushings at the top and bottom of the column, the column itself passed through a hole about 1" in diameter in the metal frame or body of the machine. So in addition to replacing the bushings, tie rods, the column gear, and the sector gear, again; I drilled out that hole, wire-wheeled the column clean and stuck a brass bushing in there which really stablized the shaft. I later sold the thing to a mower repair guy who was very impressed with the upgrade/repair. Yes, you will will have to lube it. I then bought a Broadmoor, Simplicity does not use that ridiculous steering arrangement. So if your steering column passes through a hole in the metal you may want to ponder that issue before sticking it back together.

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#23

B

Brucewayne

Short story is, I own a 2015 GT52XLSi. The steering was real sloppy so I added a washer to the top of the steering stem and that helped. I checking out the steering bushing - it was worn and loose. That bushing was a round white plastic job but the on line diagrams shows a B2 bomber shaped thing with bolt holes in it. The closest machine to mine that had a round bushing was a GT48XLSi and that had a black bushing 195227 so I ordered one. It's sloppier than the broken one. So can I asume 195228 is the correct one before I order that one or am I going to have to drill and install the B2? The 228 supposedly has a smaller diameter hole....so the "garden tractors' have smaller steering colums than the cheaper lawn tractors? In the mean time the color doesn't mean much as I've black bushing labeled with both numbers and same with white. Does anyone make a more permanent bushing? I'm a tad confused.
You may want to also check the grease fittings out at the wheels. If grease does not enter then you may need to disassemble to free up grease flow. If there is no flow of course the binding will create additional load on the bushings that are shot and more difficulty turning the steering column.


#24

F

freedhardwoods

Redneck engineer weighing in here.

I had a lower bushing wear out on a mower years ago. I found out when the teeth on the steering gear started jumping.
I didn't want to take the time to disassemble everything so I wrapped a piece of 1/4" flat plastic around the shaft (using vise grips) and drove it down into the hole where the proper part is supposed to be bolted. It wasn't perfect, but I had it installed in minutes, the teeth didn't jump anymore, and it lasted until I accidentally caught the mower on fire a couple years later ( :rolleyes: oops).


#25

V

Vic bellan

Short story is, I own a 2015 GT52XLSi. The steering was real sloppy so I added a washer to the top of the steering stem and that helped. I checking out the steering bushing - it was worn and loose. That bushing was a round white plastic job but the on line diagrams shows a B2 bomber shaped thing with bolt holes in it. The closest machine to mine that had a round bushing was a GT48XLSi and that had a black bushing 195227 so I ordered one. It's sloppier than the broken one. So can I asume 195228 is the correct one before I order that one or am I going to have to drill and install the B2? The 228 supposedly has a smaller diameter hole....so the "garden tractors' have smaller steering colums than the cheaper lawn tractors? In the mean time the color doesn't mean much as I've black bushing labeled with both numbers and same with white. Does anyone make a more permanent bushing? I'm a tad confused.
Measure shaft size diameter , use a vice grip pliers as calipers, & go to tractor supply and get a brass shoulderewd bushing & install ! may have to give a couple drops of oil occasionally !


#26

C

Cajun power

just for reference, to improve steering, the friction happens where the load exist...this is counter intuitive to some. the bearing at the LOWER end of the steering bushing is where all the weight/pressure/force exists. I don't know if this helps, but after briefly reading OP, I noticed you replaced the bushing at the top. Perhaps that is the reason you see no difference? just a suggestion.


#27

O

Oldaarpy

And the tale continues.....I bought two of the white (228), they went down the shaft with a little help. I cut a piece of 1" pvc to the correct angle to tap them in. The first one refused to go in the hole and broke...may have been my fault as there was some dirt residue around the hole. Cleaned it all up and slathered white grease on everything, carefully lined up everything....and the second adapter refused to go in and broke. So, I know this won't work, I've taken a steel washer and drilled a 5/8 eliptical hole and JB welded it to the black (227) which I put back in. I made sure where I drilled wasn't sharp tp avoid damaging the steering column. I'm letting the JB Weld set for 24hrs. I don't really know what else to do. Maybe I should have softened the plastic with a heat gun first?


#28

O

Oldaarpy

And the tale continues.....I bought two of the white (228), they went down the shaft with a little help. I cut a piece of 1" pvc to the correct angle to tap them in. The first one refused to go in the hole and broke...may have been my fault as there was some dirt residue around the hole. Cleaned it all up and slathered white grease on everything, carefully lined up everything....and the second adapter refused to go in and broke. So, I know this won't work, I've taken a steel washer and drilled a 5/8 eliptical hole and JB welded it to the black (227) which I put back in. I made sure where I drilled wasn't sharp tp avoid damaging the steering column. I'm letting the JB Weld set for 24hrs. I don't really know what else to do. Maybe I should have softened the plastic with a heat gun first?
Added a second coating of JB Weld last night and today it all seems strong and a whole less sloppy. (The steering still works so I've got that going for me.) I won't know how strong until I actually use it. The black 227 fit the cross member hole but was too big for the steering column, The white 228 was the correct size for the column but too big for the hole in the cross member. Is there a third bushing? Tom


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