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Our Toro Briggs Quantum 125K02-0182-E1 will start after priming but stalls very soon thereafter. It will restart (and does the same) repeatedly only after repriming each time. It's fresh fuel, the tank was drained and fuel line changed. Nothing of surprise in the float bowl. I did find a mouse nest under the top shroud and that was all cleared out but made no difference. This is the first running issue, other than a flaky governor causing a surging like running condition that I have lived with, after probably 20 years of ownership. Any ideas? It's old enough to not spend a fortune changing parts, but then again I don't like throwing stuff out.

Bet the float seat has swollen and your float is closing too soon, not allowing enough fuel in the float bowl. Repair is to replace the float needle and seat, plus level the float.

Rivets said:

Bet the float seat has swollen and your float is closing too soon, not allowing enough fuel in the float bowl. Repair is to replace the float needle and seat, plus level the float.

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I have a rebuild kit on order. Didn't add a float so hopefully it's not leaking.

The nut holding the bowl on the carb, is also the main jet. remove it and clean it thoroughly, clean out the tiny holes/passages. Sometimes that is all you need to do.

This time of year, people getting out mowers with last years fuel. Carb is dirty. Tank might be contaminated with grass and dirt. After 20 years, tank is dirty, block cooling fins are dirty and the cylinder is loaded up with carbon.

slomo

Hey Fish, that main jet is for a Tecumseh, OP has a Briggs. Different main jet setup.

Rivets said:

Hey Fish, that main jet is for a Tecumseh, OP has a Briggs. Different main jet setup.

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Wrong...Briggs does use this setup on many of the walk behind mowers. PN 498978 is what Fish is showing.

Since the mower will run about ten second I would suspect trash in the fuel bowl blocking the jet after getting up against it.

Also OP please double check the your engine model and type numbers. I don't find the one posted on the Briggs Power Portal for dealers. The close I can find is the -0187-E1.

Rivets said:

Bet the float seat has swollen and your float is closing too soon, not allowing enough fuel in the float bowl. Repair is to replace the float needle and seat, plus level the float.

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Does the float have an adjustable height setting like other carb'ed motors?

StarTech said:

Wrong...Briggs does use this setup on many of the walk behind mowers. PN 498978 is what Fish is showing.

Since the mower will run about ten second I would suspect trash in the fuel bowl blocking the jet after getting up against it.

Also OP please double check the your engine model and type numbers. I don't find the one posted on the Briggs Power Portal for dealers. The close I can find is the -0187-E1.

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The model number is correct. I downloaded the parts manual from Briggs.
That is the jet number I see listed for my model engine according to the Briggs parts manual.

Fish said:

The nut holding the bowl on the carb, is also the main jet. remove it and clean it thoroughly, clean out the tiny holes/passages. Sometimes that is all you need to do.
View attachment 55979

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I would never have thought the jet was in the drain nut. Seems the most problematic place to put a jet.

Beamster said:

The model number is correct. I downloaded the parts manual from Briggs.
That is the jet number I see listed for my model engine according to the Briggs parts manual.

Results

www.briggsandstratton.com

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No problem apparently Briggs isn't keeping the tech support site up to date. What a surprise considering they had filed bankruptcy last year.

Beamster said:

I would never have thought the jet was in the drain nut. Seems the most problematic place to put a jet.

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A heck a lot easier to remove and clean than if if it was the carburetor nozzle tower.

Yeah, some carbs have a tinier one to boot, right at the base of the threads {tecumseh engines}. Most times cleaning that nut is all you need to do. I actually leave the nut on my logsplitter on a hair loose, so when I am done the last bit of gas drips out, and the fuel won't sit there and varnish over the summer.

Rivets said:

Bet the float seat has swollen and your float is closing too soon, not allowing enough fuel in the float bowl. Repair is to replace the float needle and seat, plus level the float.

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What would the float needle seat material be? I got a rebuild kit and there is a flat needle but only soft spongy washer type things in there and I can't imagine that the seat is not hard.

StarTech said:

No problem apparently Briggs isn't keeping the tech support site up to date. What a surprise considering they had filed bankruptcy last year.


A heck a lot easier to remove and clean than if if it was the carburetor nozzle tower.

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I meant that all the sediment settles down there.

Most often the Briggs seat is made of a material call Viton, which will swell if exposed to standing fuel for long periods of time. If you can’t get the seat to level out, let me know, I’ve got a trick if you need it so you don’t have to buy a new float.

Rivets said:

Most often the Briggs seat is made of a material call Viton, which will swell if exposed to standing fuel for long periods of time. If you can’t get the seat to level out, let me know, I’ve got a trick if you need it so you don’t have to buy a new float.

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The reason I mentioned the float before is because old motorcycle floats, appearing to be of similar material, are subject to leaks caused by ethanol laced gas. They sell "stay up floats" for the bikes. I suspect not for old mower engines.

Make sure the solenoid is working. Sounds like it isn’t. Stuff settles around it over the winter and jams it.

Ok let’s start with the most Simplest thing
Have you replace the fuel filter? Next replace all 3 fuel lines. Next pull the Carburetor either take apart clean with carburetor cleaner and the last is to replace the fuel pump. It has to work then. Of course do them one by one and try it. Let’s me know which one it was

Beamster said:

I would never have thought the jet was in the drain nut. Seems the most problematic place to put a jet.

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probably the cheapest most efficient way to build it

This same thing burned me TWICE. Never again, "of course". The largest hole at the center of the jet will look wide open when you shine a light through it. When the old gas dries and crystalizes in that opening, it will STILL be very much transparent. You can see right through it! Take a paper clip and push it out of there. Then blast through the hole with the carb spray straw or the brake clean straw. Chances are it will fire up and run fine...........especially being that it ran fine when you put it away {;-)
bestalucktoyoufriend
Mike

Beamster said:

Our Toro Briggs Quantum 125K02-0182-E1 will start after priming but stalls very soon thereafter. It will restart (and does the same) repeatedly only after repriming each time. It's fresh fuel, the tank was drained and fuel line changed. Nothing of surprise in the float bowl. I did find a mouse nest under the top shroud and that was all cleared out but made no difference. This is the first running issue, other than a flaky governor causing a surging like running condition that I have lived with, after probably 20 years of ownership. Any ideas? It's old enough to not spend a fortune changing parts, but then again I don't like throwing stuff out.

Click to expand...

Beamster said:

Our Toro Briggs Quantum 125K02-0182-E1 will start after priming but stalls very soon thereafter. It will restart (and does the same) repeatedly only after repriming each time. It's fresh fuel, the tank was drained and fuel line changed. Nothing of surprise in the float bowl. I did find a mouse nest under the top shroud and that was all cleared out but made no difference. This is the first running issue, other than a flaky governor causing a surging like running condition that I have lived with, after probably 20 years of ownership. Any ideas? It's old enough to not spend a fortune changing parts, but then again I don't like throwing stuff out.

Click to expand...

carb needs clean clean the holes in the nut make sure you clean the very small hole near the threads

Rick42wood said:

Make sure the solenoid is working. Sounds like it isn’t. Stuff settles around it over the winter and jams it.

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This little Quantum doesn't have a solenoid on the carb bowl.

slomo

Beamster said:

Our Toro Briggs Quantum 125K02-0182-E1 will start after priming but stalls very soon thereafter. It will restart (and does the same) repeatedly only after repriming each time. It's fresh fuel, the tank was drained and fuel line changed. Nothing of surprise in the float bowl. I did find a mouse nest under the top shroud and that was all cleared out but made no difference. This is the first running issue, other than a flaky governor causing a surging like running condition that I have lived with, after probably 20 years of ownership. Any ideas? It's old enough to not spend a fortune changing parts, but then again I don't like throwing stuff out.

Click to expand...

Do the basics. Turn off gas if you have a valve for that. Remove Fuel Filter and drain old gas and dirt from Fuel tank.
Carefully remove float bowl and empty it. Replace Bowl. Fill with filtered Premium Fuel. If gas comes out freely, install new fuel filter. Blow into fuel tank and watch filter fill. Start and mow lawn.

In addition to the rest of the advice - stay away from gasoline with ethanol added. My brother has a small boat with a gas engine that would not keep running. Turns out the fuel line was disintegrating from the ethanol and clogging the fuel filter repeatedly.

The fuel starvation may be a valid cause , the cleaning of the inlet needle valve under the float fulcrum would be a prudent start . Also the potential for a plugged fuel filter or even plugged vent line to the fuel tank will cause a partial vacuum condition with similar symptoms of fuel starvation . Opening the gas cap will test this theory !

Beamster said:

Our Toro Briggs Quantum 125K02-0182-E1 will start after priming but stalls very soon thereafter. It will restart (and does the same) repeatedly only after repriming each time. It's fresh fuel, the tank was drained and fuel line changed. Nothing of surprise in the float bowl. I did find a mouse nest under the top shroud and that was all cleared out but made no difference. This is the first running issue, other than a flaky governor causing a surging like running condition that I have lived with, after probably 20 years of ownership. Any ideas? It's old enough to not spend a fortune changing parts, but then again I don't like throwing stuff out.

Click to expand...

MY first guess would be the needle valve in the carburetor. The float can move up & down fine but the needle valve can be stuck. This is a common issue after an engine sits up over the winter; the gas can dry out/lacquer in the carburetor. Since the needle valve is what controls how much fuel is in the bowl, if it is stuck closed you will get the exact symptoms you describe.
The fact that it runs when you prime says the carburetor (and the rest of the engine) should be fine outside of the valve.

When I get a mower with your symptoms there are two things I always do.
1) slip an orange in line spark tester ( white ones or just gap ones are too hard to see ) on the mower & start the engine .
Watch the tube, it should glow solid orange while the engine is running if the magneto is working properly
When the engine is stopping the tube should flash right down to the last revolution if the electrics are working properly .
2) grab a can of carb spray
once the engine has started ( it might need a shot to start ) I then use short shots of carb cleaner to keep the engine running.
If the spark tester tells me the magneto is good and the carb spray shows the engine will run on al alternative fuel supply I know the fuel supply is the problem.

I like to diagnose first then repair second , it saves a lot of time , effort & wasting of money replacing perfectly good parts.

Now if you don't want to spend $ 15.00 on the tester you can do it the slower way by removing the blower housing and pulling the kill wire off the coil then move it out of the way.
Refit the housing & start the mower
Problem goes away = bare wire grounding or a short at the switch .
The little tab gets bent or loose and some times conductive debris can accumulate around it

Beamster said:

Briggs Quantum 125K02-0182-E1

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buy a 12 dollar chinese carb off ebay

So, the main jet, float needle and jet were just changed, the passages shot with carb cleaner and it's running better than for as long as I can remember. Before the stalling issue, it used to surge and hunt with unloaded rpm going up and down. All gone now. So the two suggestions above about the jets made it new again. It did not come with one but I think a fuel filter will be a good addition.
Thanks.

clean bowl nut jet, also check needle and seat , reset float bowl if needed

Beamster said:

So, the main jet, float needle and jet were just changed, the passages shot with carb cleaner and it's running better than for as long as I can remember. Before the stalling issue, it used to surge and hunt with unloaded rpm going up and down. All gone now. So the two suggestions above about the jets made it new again. It did not come with one but I think a fuel filter will be a good addition.
Thanks.

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Briggs PN should be 298090s

DELTASCIENCES said:

buy a 12 dollar chinese carb off ebay

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I used to think like that. Easy to just order something and hope it works. No cleaning involved. Just bolt on a new one. Just wait till you get a bad one and the mower won't start/run.

Best to if possible, clean the OEM Briggs carb. That is "if" you can remove all the jets and such. Remove all the small parts. Put it in the wife's dishwasher on hot pot scrubber mode. Sucker will come out like a new Holley.

slomo

slomo said:

I used to think like that. Easy to just order something and hope it works. No cleaning involved. Just bolt on a new one. Just wait till you get a bad one and the mower won't start/run.

Best to if possible, clean the OEM Briggs carb. That is "if" you can remove all the jets and such. Remove all the small parts. Put it in the wife's dishwasher on hot pot scrubber mode. Sucker will come out like a new Holley.

slomo

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The WIFE'S dishwasher?

Scrubcadet10 said:

Briggs PN should be 298090s

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Wish they were clear but those seem to be a finer filter fabric

Now to do that all on the Briggs Tiller engine who's unleaded engine speed hunts. That is a very different looking carb that dips into the tank. It must be a pumper.

Beamster said:

Wish they were clear but those seem to be a finer filter fabric

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they have a screen inside them, the red filter is a 150 microns, and the white filter is 75 microns, some people say they work better for gravity fed fuel systems, however, i've used Wix 33011 on gravity fed systems with never any problems.

Scrubcadet10 said:

they have a screen inside them, the red filter is a 150 microns, and the white filter is 75 microns, some people say they work better for gravity fed fuel systems, however, i've used Wix 33011 on gravity fed systems with never any problems.

Amazon.com : briggs fuel filter

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I use paper filters on gravity feed carbs too. No issues ever. Even the cheap ebay paper filter and shutoff' packages are fine.

slomo

Scrubcadet10 said:

they have a screen inside them, the red filter is a 150 microns, and the white filter is 75 microns, some people say they work better for gravity fed fuel systems, however, i've used Wix 33011 on gravity fed systems with never any problems.

Amazon.com : briggs fuel filter

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Only place I fit those filters is on push mowers because they are small & light

If you look into the end of those red Briggs 150 and 75 micron filters, all you see is similar to a window screen mesh type deal. Paper is the clear winner in filtering capability.

slomo

Beamster said:

The WIFE'S dishwasher?

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You have an awesome parts washer right in your kitchen. Just a smaller version of a real one at a machine shop. Put some high pH Purple Power degreaser in there on HD pot scrubber mode and be amazed when it comes out.

Take your filthy, oily headed bed pillows. Place on the lower rack vertically and longways. Suckers will come out like brand new. All the yellow oil stains and stench will be gone. Couch pillows, shoot anything you can put in there will be renewed. For oily skinned sweaty guys like me, double pillow case your bed pillows AFTER cleaning in the dishwasher. If you have goose down pillows, somehow, can't explain it, they come out all fluffed up and super clean. You guys know how the wife fluffs up the pillows making the bed?

slomo

slomo said:

You have an awesome parts washer right in your kitchen. Just a smaller version of a real one at a machine shop. Put some high pH Purple Power degreaser in there on HD pot scrubber mode and be amazed when it comes out.

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Actually not. Our 1 year old dishwasher had a failure and the smoke got out of the wires. So much for big named companies that can't even install wires without them shorting each other out. That's not to mention that repair parts are not a manufacturing priority now.

All good input so far. And be ever so careful to take a picture of or make note of how the carb linkage is connected before you disconnect it to remove the carb. Engine will not run properly if it is self-governed and the linkage is not connected correctly.

Just today I had the same exact problem. I took the fuel line off of the fuel pump and pressurized the gas tank with compressed air and nothing came out. Now I removed the fuel filter and pressurized the tank once again. Nothing came out again indicating clogged or collapsed fuel line. Replaced the fuel line and filter. Unit started and ran but surges. Removed carb and cleaned with carb cleaner. Removed main jet ensuring that it was very clean. Put carb back together and reinstalled. Fired right up and runs as good as new.

Good to hear it.
A job you need to do every 5 to 10 years
Best done by draining the tank at the end of the season & leaving it with the cap just sitting on the top
Then blow compressed air back up the fuel line before you fire it up for the new season.
Link it with removing the rear wheels & greasing he axels sp the wheels come off easy to fix flats .