I have a Silver Eagle LT2000 mower and new to the forum.
Got it used, changed all fluids and filters and it's worked great for two years until about 4 weeks ago.
Now when I start the engine, it turns over but doesn't fire. I replaced the fuel filter, no change.
I pulled each plug, inspected (a little black but nothing I would not expect) each, had my wife turn over while I fired it against the housing. Both plugs fired.
Replaced both plugs, the mower started right away.
Parked for one week then exactly the same thing. Pulled the plugs, fired against the block/housing, reinstalled, engine starts.
I've done this about 3 times now. Last week, I had to pull each plug twice before it started. After it's running, and I turn off the engine, it will re-start. Only after it sits do I have a problem.
The nature of the problem leads me to believe it's electrical. I'm no gearhead, but if someone can point me in the direction, I think I can track it down.
Any help much appreciated!
#2
wjjones
Welcome to the Forum!.. I am not sure about your question but I bet someone will be able to help you.
Try to short cut your troubleshooting... Get a spray can of starter fluid (ether)...
The Next time it fails to start, spray a generous shot into the carb at the air cleaner...
Since you are seeing spark, I am going to be leaning toward a fuel problem...
There is one other thing I can think of, but check with the substute fuel first.
IF it starts with the ether, it is likely a fuel problem. :smile:KennyV
I agree with Kenny, except for one thing. I use carb cleaner instead of ether. I feel ether is to dry and removes the oil coating on the cylinder walls. Carb cleaner works just as good and is not as dry.
I agree with Kenny, except for one thing. I use carb cleaner instead of ether. I feel ether is to dry and removes the oil coating on the cylinder walls. Carb cleaner works just as good and is not as dry.
Definitely true... I just didn't want to give him the idea that spraying some carb cleaner, as a starting aid, was actually going to clean anything...
A steady diet of ether will not be good for any engine... :smile:KennyV
The carb cleaner trick worked, it started up with the first turn of the key. Once it fired, it remained running steady.
By the way, when I pulled the air cleaner, I could definitely smell fuel in the carb - after it's not run for several days but I did try to start it yesterday. Not sure if that tells you anything.
When the choke is correctly fully closed should it literally close, that is go from open at horizontal to closed at vertical? I ask because I noticed the choke moves very little when the lever is moved, maybe from horizontal to 30 degree above horizontal.
It should be almost closed. Adjust the control cable so it will close as much as possible, tighten the clamp, then check to see that it Moses to open when you reverse the control.
Z420 NO SPARK NEW SELINOID,NEW PTO SWITCH, KEY SWITCH DOES NOTHING, I JUMP THE NEW SELINOID TO CRANK IT OVER BUT NO JUICE TO THE PLUG JUMPED THE SEAT SW.CHANGED THE RELAY,NOW WHAT??????????????? THANKS HELP ME OUT
Jumping in on the end of another persons thread is not a good idea because we hvae very little to work with and will be confused between the different mowers
So start off by telling us what engine is in your mower.
The brand , the model & serial numbers so we can feed you useful information.
diagnosing your problem is really difficult because you have randomly changed out parts any of which could be causing the problem.
in the mean time start by determining if the coils are actually working.
Assuming it is a std magneto ignition ( which we do not know yet ) , pull the blower housing off then remove the wires from the coils.
Crank the engine & check for sparks.
Tell us what you find and in particular how many small wires are connected to your coils.
