Starter Solenoid - Disappearing Power

dana3132

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Hello. I have a no start issue with my Husqvarna YTH21K46. I've read tons of threads on this board but haven't come across this exact situation. Maybe my google-fu just isn't that strong. I have been following Rivets' EXCELLENT troubleshooting steps but am still hung up.

I've confirmed the battery is charged (12.8V on my multi-meter) and all connections are good/clean/tight. I'm reading just about the same voltage at the starter solenoid on the large terminal (it's a 4 post solenoid, for reference). I'm also getting power to the small white wire when I turn the key - THE FIRST TIME. If I turn the key a second time I get nothing. I'm using a test light for this and the first time I turn the key it triggers the light but then nothing on subsequent tests. I hear a tiny "click" but nothing like what you hear with a dead battery, just a faint solitary "click". Also, I've noticed that the digital hour read-out on the dash will light up the first time but not the second time I turn the key. If I disconnect the battery and wait a bit, I can repeat these steps but not without disconnecting and waiting. I also happened to have a spare ignition switch and tried both but get the same results.

For some background, the mower has been covered but outside for the past year or so and was dead. Wife said I needed to either fix it or sell it. I replaced the starter solenoid but that was my bad diagnosis and didn't fix the problem. After more studying on here, I traced it down to the starter. I put in a new one, sprayed some starter fluid, and got it running in no time. Mice had infested this thing pretty bad though. They didn't build a condo - they built a full on amusement park under the engine cover. Needless to say, this thing was nasty and it stunk... real bad. I gave it a deep, deep cleaning and this is where I went wrong because after the bath, oil change, and new fuel filter it won't start now. I know water and electronics don't mix but I couldn't sit on this thing with that mouse smell and had water all over this thing. I've checked all the wires and connections but can't see anywhere that the mice ate any wiring but perhaps I'm still missing a break/short.

So the spa day definitely killed something, I just can't figure out what. I've gone through all connectors I could find, opened them up, sprayed some WD40 in there and let them dry out a bit before re-connecting. I've also replaced the fuse (not blown, just as a precaution). Now instead of having a nasty dead mower in the backyard I've got a clean dead mower in the driveway. Any help y'all can provide would be greatly appreciated!
 
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mechanic mark

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See wiring schematic page 27. Headlights work with key on? Check ignition switch plug at backside of dash by removing plug & checking switch terminals & plug for corrosion etc. Purchase a tube of silicone dielectric & apply at all electrical connections including spark plug boots. If it will not start remove battery & take to auto parts store to be load tested at no cost to you. Let us know how it goes, thanks, Mark
 
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bertsmobile1

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Sounds really like the fuse
All the power to the mower apart from the clutch runs through a single fuse
The wires can break at the terminal crimp, the sockets corrode etc.
Did you fit the solenoid properly ?
Usually the above mentioned power feed wire is connected to the battery lead on the solenoid.
A bad connection between the battery straps ( either end ) will also cause your problem.
 

Born2Mow

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A year outside in the weather (under a tarp simply intensifies the humidity) followed by a bath. Smells like a gross case of terminal corrosion. It's most probably on several contact points, not simply one. That's why it's hard to find and/or diagnose. Look at these 3 places....

• Inside the ignition switch where you can't get. You can try spray "Contact Cleaner" into the switch, but you'll probably end up replacing the switch. Or one of the external terminals on the switch itself.
• One of the starter interlock switches or terminals
• Fuses (if you have them)

They make several brands of ointment electricians use to break through terminal oxidation and corrosion. As you unplug each terminal, you can wipe a very small portion of this stuff on each male connector terminal, and then re-plug the wire. The stuff I use is called No-Ox-Id by Sanchem, which is sold on Amazon. From time to time they offer a tiny tube for $2, which is enough to treat 10 mowers. It just takes a tiny bit. Then they have larger tubs which are over-kill for your needs. This stuff eliminates the corrosion and keeps it from returning later on.

MHBRlh8.jpg


Hope this helps.
 
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Fish

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Sounds like a poor connection/ corroded terminals at the ground or positive cable, and maybe keyswitch. The tiny click is likely the fuel shutoff solenoid.
 

Rivets

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Please post the voltage results to each of the steps in my troubleshooting procedure. Then we can have a better idea on how you should proceed.
 

dana3132

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See wiring schematic page 27. Headlights work with key on? Check ignition switch plug at backside of dash by removing plug & checking switch terminals & plug for corrosion etc. Purchase a tube of silicone dielectric & apply at all electrical connections including spark plug boots. If it will not start remove battery & take to auto parts store to be load tested at no cost to you. Let us know how it goes, thanks, Mark
Hey Mark,

Thanks for taking the time to reply. The headlights don't turn on with the key but I think that it's just because the bulbs are old and non-functional. I put a test light on the connection point where the wire running along the chassis connects into the splitter that goes to each bulb and when I turned the key on the test light lit up - so I know power is at least getting to the front end via the key. Again though, once I tried to start the motor I heard the faint "click" and then couldn't get the test light to trigger any more.

I did take the ignition switch apart again to clean it all down. I actually have a spare ignition switch and tried both but no luck. They are both in "new" condition and no corrosion on them (the male parts) or the female parts in the harness under the dash.

Good call on the dielectric grease. I don't have any on hand but will pick some up when I go get the battery checked out. If I'm getting 12.8V at the battery and through to the first big terminal on the solenoid, could the battery still be bad?
 

Born2Mow

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Good call on the dielectric grease. I don't have any on hand but will pick some up when I go get the battery checked out. If I'm getting 12.8V at the battery and through to the first big terminal on the solenoid, could the battery still be bad?
Dielectric grease is great on new equipment, before trouble starts. But since it only stops new water from causing new corrosion it's not great. Probably work, but not the best. Look up the word "dielectric" in the dictionary and you'll start to understand.
 

dana3132

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Dielectric grease is great on new equipment, before trouble starts. But since it only stops new water from causing new corrosion it's not great. Probably work, but not the best. Look up the word "dielectric" in the dictionary and you'll start to understand.
Thanks! I just saw your post too and am looking into the No-Ox-Id too
 

Telesis

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I am not sure if you replaced the battery but if you did not, yes you can appear to charge a battery that's bad and it will show proper voltage until you put a load on it and it drops to a very low value. A simple test of this is to put your meter (not the test light) right on the battery terminals. Turn the ignition switch on and off. Then repeat. Does the battery voltage stay over 12 for the entire sequence, or do you see a dramatic reduction when you hit the ignition the first time? If so then it's new battery time.

As a side note, I run into this all the time when servicing battery backup sump pumps(particularly the 'dumb' ones that don't cycle the backup DC pump and hence the battery). A battery that would normally last 4-5 years in a car or boat can go bad in a year or so. You pull the charger off and measure the voltage and sure enough it's 12+ volts, but put a load on it and it drops to a low value >>> battery is shot. That's because the battery is just sitting there 24/7/365 and never gets cycled. Shortens battery life dramatically.

Good luck!
 
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