StaBil and ethanol?

[kbowley]

Some of those things you say can be true in certain situations but it feels like a lot of Doom and gloom. Lol
Also, there is no need for a "really good" fuel stabilizer like startron which is more expensive.
Plain old traditional red Sta-bil is what I've been using commercially for almost 14 years.
You don't even need to buy the 360 shield or The ethanol or the boat or any of the other overpriced ones unless you can manage to lower your cost per ounce because those are all more concentrated.

One caveat to all of this though.
I DO NOT use at the lowest recommended dosage which for regular sta-bil is 1 oz for every 2.5 gallons.
This is what they used to say for regular maintenance use.
Then, they had a pink one inch wide box across the back of the label on the full size bottle that said:
"For long-term storage up to 2 years, use at a ratio of 1 oz for every gallon of fuel."
They stopped putting this on there 8 or 10 years ago probably because there were too many jackholes calling up in 1 year, 11 months and 29 days wanting their money back because their engine wouldn't start because they left them sitting out in the rain or their gas can had water in it etc.

I have always and only used the one ounce per gallon ratio and you should ALWAYS AND ONLY put the one else into an empty gas can and then put your fresh fuel into it from the gas pump at the station.
NEVER cheat like a lot of people do and just add a capful or whatever to the gas tank on your equipment even if you try to shake It up or run the equipment for a few minutes..
JUST DON'T!

Doing it this way of 1 oz per gallon makes all the lousy 10% ethanol fuel I have used over the past 10 plus years maybe 15 plus years perform and last just as long as the gas in the mowers I had back in the 70s.
I still joke about it but it's very true that back then it seemed almost every year my Tecumseh mowers would have to have their carb bowl take it off and at least dumped out and let some fresh gas run through the needle valve before they would run.
You normally didn't have to touch the jet because it wasn't clogged it just had big moisture water bubbles floating around in the bowl.
This is with pure 100% fuel and even leaded fuel before that.
We never had to do anything to the Briggs engines because the earlier ones didn't have the float bowl style carburetor but the tecumseh's every time!
The fuel now even though it's lower quality, as long as you add the 1 oz of stabilizer correctly to each gallon of fuel, is far better than this old gas situation and these engines run fine and start right up at the beginning of the season.

Gas is lower quality and junky overall compared to what it used to be and I really don't think all the problems are strictly due to ethanol.
There's a lot of other crap in gas that I don't think used to be there and certainly a different ratios.

It also seems to vary about times and even brands or types of fuel you get.

Today it seems that when they evaporate at minimum you'll get a white chalky powder.
Theen a little bit more you'll get a greenish thicker residue.
Then the next step of lousy fuel would be a dark red mahogany almost brown or black goopy tar looking build up.

It's not like this didn't happen though with old fuel.

We had a vehicle sit for 17 years and probably had a full tank at the time or at least a lot of fuel in it.
The gas was purchased in 1971 so it was good quality leaded fuel by today's standards.
It turned into a Brown almost dark brown black at least caramel looking or peanut brittle looking concoction.
It was thick and sticky like tar and certain parts had dried up and would chip off just like peanut brittle but a little bit darker.

This certainly wasn't due to ethanol in the fuel.

So yes, ethanol fuel may have a shorter lifespan and doesn't store as well and it's raw form out of the gas pump but 1 oz of plain old regular Sta-bil makes it just as good if not better than the stuff we were using way back then.

In my opinion, adding one ounce per gallon is superfluous and will not significantly extend storage time. That is three times the suggested ratio of mix. I follow the directions and have never had any problems. All my machines, though, are kept year-round in a heated garage. Some of my "stuff" fires right up after sitting for three, four, or even more years. But there is nothing wrong with that if it gives you more confidence; it will not hurt anything.

 

[Gord Baker]

I think it is time to put this Issue to the grave.

 

[Joed756]

Without a link, that doesn't help.

Google

 

[ScagOwner]

What do you gentlemen think o PRI-G

 

[Gord Baker]

In my opinion, adding one ounce per gallon is superfluous and will not significantly extend storage time. That is three times the suggested ratio of mix. I follow the directions and have never had any problems. All my machines, though, are kept year-round in a heated garage. Some of my "stuff" fires right up after sitting for three, four, or even more years. But there is nothing wrong with that if it gives you more confidence; it will not hurt anything.

JUST RUN THE ENGINE DRY OF FUEL. DONE!

 

[Gym123]

Red StaBil isn't made for fuel that contains Ethanol but they do make stabilizers that are appropriate.

I have been a marine mechanic for more than 25 years and boat engine manufacturers like Mercruiser, etc had training material that showed/explained the problems with Ethanol in gas, but those fuel systems are required by the US Coast Guard to use vented fuel tanks, which cause all kinds of problems because they 'breathe' when the temperature changes, so the fuel expands with higher temperature, then contracts as it drops, allowing warm, moist air to enter and then, condensation occurs. More hot/cold cycles introduces a lot of water and then, phase separation occurs- that can't be reversed by additives, it must be removed, so many boats have a fuel/water separator.

At the last dealership, we used Volvo-Penta fuel stabilizer when we winterized boats and it seemed to do a good job of preventing problems. I have been using the StaBil for Ethanol for at least five years without problems- snow blowers and push mower start on the first pull, but I don't just start yanking on the cords, I pull gently a few times to pull fuel into the tank and build compression.

The link is from BoatUS and has some good info. FWIW- a friend has a Carver yacht that was built in 1989 and next to the fuel filler is a plastic plaque with "Using gas with Alcohol is dangerous".

I got an Ariens 42" riding mower on Friday and I drained the tank yesterday- will post a photo of the gas- it was cloudy when I poured it into the container but the water settled out after it sat for awhile.

Three Ethanol Myths Clarified

In the few years since ethanol began to be widely used in the United States, a lot has been written about its properties, the problems it's created, and how to best cope with its possible effects. It's time we get to the bottom of how E10 is affecting our engines.

www.boatus.com

 

[kbowley]

Red StaBil isn't made for fuel that contains Ethanol but they do make stabilizers that are appropriate.

I have been a marine mechanic for more than 25 years and boat engine manufacturers like Mercruiser, etc had training material that showed/explained the problems with Ethanol in gas, but those fuel systems are required by the US Coast Guard to use vented fuel tanks, which cause all kinds of problems because they 'breathe' when the temperature changes, so the fuel expands with higher temperature, then contracts as it drops, allowing warm, moist air to enter and then, condensation occurs. More hot/cold cycles introduces a lot of water and then, phase separation occurs- that can't be reversed by additives, it must be removed, so many boats have a fuel/water separator.

At the last dealership, we used Volvo-Penta fuel stabilizer when we winterized boats and it seemed to do a good job of preventing problems. I have been using the StaBil for Ethanol for at least five years without problems- snow blowers and push mower start on the first pull, but I don't just start yanking on the cords, I pull gently a few times to pull fuel into the tank and build compression.

The link is from BoatUS and has some good info. FWIW- a friend has a Carver yacht that was built in 1989 and next to the fuel filler is a plastic plaque with "Using gas with Alcohol is dangerous".

I got an Ariens 42" riding mower on Friday and I drained the tank yesterday- will post a photo of the gas- it was cloudy when I poured it into the container but the water settled out after it sat for awhile.

Three Ethanol Myths Clarified

In the few years since ethanol began to be widely used in the United States, a lot has been written about its properties, the problems it's created, and how to best cope with its possible effects. It's time we get to the bottom of how E10 is affecting our engines.

www.boatus.com

Thank you for the interesting topic and enjoyable read on the link. But instead of talking about boats, we are talking about outdoor power equipment. A product designed specifically for marine use is produced by Sta-Bil. Although the bottle claims that the Marine Sta-Bil will keep fuel fresh for a year instead of the two specified for the red, I have used it with similar results to the red. That is merely a result of the surroundings and tools it is utilized for. The Sta-Bil "blue" maritime product merely includes an emulsifier for water, which accounts for its shorter half-life in an environment where condensation eventually leads to separation. I might be in error. With all due respect, Kevin

 

[Gym123]

Thank you for the interesting topic and enjoyable read on the link. But instead of talking about boats, we are talking about outdoor power equipment. A product designed specifically for marine use is produced by Sta-Bil. Although the bottle claims that the Marine Sta-Bil will keep fuel fresh for a year instead of the two specified for the red, I have used it with similar results to the red. That is merely a result of the surroundings and tools it is utilized for. The Sta-Bil "blue" maritime product merely includes an emulsifier for water, which accounts for its shorter half-life in an environment where condensation eventually leads to separation. I might be in error. With all due respect, Kevin

Gas with Ethanol needs to be stored properly, whether in boats, cars/trucks or outdoor equipment. Red StaBil is compatible for all gasoline, with or without Ethanol, according to the link. I have read that it wasn't best for marine, so I use the Blue although the link says it has more anti-corrosion, rust inhibitors and cleaners.

Also shows that it's guaranteed to protect for 24 months.

"The STA-BIL® Marine Formula has been specifically formulated to be used in a harsh, humid environment for marine engines, such as boats, jet skis and even snow blowers.", so it's our call as far as which one is going to be picked.

I don't like storing gas in containers for long periods but I still use stabilizer and I look at it as a 'worst case scenario'.

The photos show the gas I removed from the tank- the last one is after shaking- it also had what looked like fine grass clippings. The color tells me it wasn't stabilized.

 

[Gord Baker]

ALL: Keep your spare Fuel Containers FULL. Use within 30 days if possible. Don't drain out the last dregs when emptying them. If you cannot run the equipment Dry (some fuel remaining in the tank) Fill it and Cap it.
The enemy is moisture in the AIR which enters the tank through any vent during temp cycles.
I have NOT used any type of Moisture Separator/Evaporator in 50 years. See Taryl tests.
After 30 days, pour the fuel into your vehicle. Done.

 

[Gym123]

ALL: Keep your spare Fuel Containers FULL. Use within 30 days if possible. Don't drain out the last dregs when emptying them. If you cannot run the equipment Dry (some fuel remaining in the tank) Fill it and Cap it.
The enemy is moisture in the AIR which enters the tank through any vent during temp cycles.
I have NOT used any type of Moisture Separator/Evaporator in 50 years. See Taryl tests.
After 30 days, pour the fuel into your vehicle. Done.

This is the reason I use a 2 gallon gas can. I don't use so much that I need a large container and I live close to a lot of gas stations.

"vehicle", as in, 'the much more expensive to repair vehicle that I depend on for transportation"?

Nah, I would rather take my chances on a mower that's far easier to service and clear out any water in the tank. All it takes is:

Find a container
Disconnect the fuel line after the shut off valve, if it has one (at the carb works fine)
Put the end of that line into the container
Open the valve, so the fuel can drain out until the water has been removed.

That should take about a minute.

The fuel I showed in the photo amounted to about one liter and the water seen at the bottom is what was in the tank. The previous owner said the smoke was white.