Spark plug gets gas fouled every cold start

yeah that place is worst than that other place that starts w/ a c plus they don't have toilets or tp, there walking around watching there step stop take a crape an keep walking w/ out even wiping. we don't want there crape here there all going back. have you sean the movie slumdog millionair they live in there own sewer.
 
MParr said:
How bad can the cheapo Amazon carbs be? It's a crap shoot. If you are planning on keeping the mower, put on a Briggs carburetor. You will thank yourself later.
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I've had good luck with Chi-sneeze carbs. If you buy the cheapest ad on say Ebay, buyer beware. I buy the ad that is says 15 to 20 bucks over the cheapest ad listing. Don't know why but I've had less trouble.

I do gut them making sure the float level is spot on, needle seals and such. Make sure it works as it should.

Tip, when you pressure test the needle/seat, the needle needs to be WET. Spray PB Blaster on it or equivalent while testing. Dry needles don't seal all the time. Plus they are not ran dry doing their sealing job duty.
 
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first off I'll have to reorder the head gasket. as far as the carb. this man makes it look easy, I was thinking the minute I dissassemble a spring would fly out w/ another part never to be found.

so I'll be inspecting/ cleaning the carb. thats currently on the engine. I also have the orginal engines carb. so hopefully I can avoid a replacement carb. to be continued
 
Update on progress:

Just after blown head gasket.

cylinder head after blow head gasket2.jpg

Cylinder Head resurfaced 320grit dry sandpaper.

Cylinder Head an carb.jpg

plan to sand block w/ my thumb on sandpaper

carb disassembly float bowl one screw seized soaking in wd40.

carb.jpg

Push rods appear different in color. which is exhaust an intake?

Push rods appear differnt.jpg

Reordered Cylinder Head gasket appears to be usable.however I didn't order exhaust gasket previous head swap I didn't use exhaust gasket.

inside carb:

float seams fine I don’t see any holes.

Jet was laying loose. Only place I think it belongs is on top of the tube sticking up.

I was able to blow though where fuel line connects.
inside carb.jpg
which carb is correct there two part#s
which carb.jpg

please advice and thanks
 
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steves snapper said:
plan to sand block w/ my thumb on sandpaper
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I lap as follows. Start with 220 wet/dry. Stop when the entire area is cleaned up. Progress when the paper floats smoothly not removing anymore material. So 220, 400 then 800 grits. Remember the block face where the head gasket sits requires lapping as well. Let the PAPER do all the work. No need to push down hard AT ALL. What I do to limit pressure is open your fingers up turning the head while lapping. Once both sides are flat, spray new head gasket with some Permatex High Tack spray. Torque the had bolts in three steps. Retorque a couple mows later.
steves snapper said:
Push rods appear different in color. which is exhaust an intake?
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Silver looking push rod is the intake. She is made from aluminum. Exhaust push rod is roughly black. She is steel.
 
slomo said:
I lap as follows. Start with 220 wet/dry. Stop when the entire area is cleaned up. Progress when the paper floats smoothly not removing anymore material. So 220, 400 then 800 grits. Remember the block face where the head gasket sits requires lapping as well. Let the PAPER do all the work. No need to push down hard AT ALL. What I do to limit pressure is open your fingers up turning the head while lapping. Once both sides are flat, spray new head gasket with some Permatex High Tack spray. Torque the had bolts in three steps. Retorque a couple mows later.

Silver looking push rod is the intake. She is made from aluminum. Exhaust push rod is roughly black. She is steel.
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thanks slomo for the sanding tips. so when sanding the block I use my thumb litely pressing on paper?
so which carb. is the correct part#?
 
Listen to the paper. It will sound like it's not removing anything, just gliding along. Tells me it's time the progress up in grit. Don't push hard at all.
 
If I were you I would look into the Walbro carb swap. Those Nikki Six carbs are terrible. I've ordered OEM Briggs rebuild gaskets. No luck getting it to run proper. New gaskets didn't look like they would even seal anything.

Some guys on here have had luck rebuilding the Nikki's. Those stamped out O-ring gaskets are poorly made.

Think I made a post about the Walbro swap on here. It was a Evilbay Chinese Walbro clone carb. Sucker ran like a top. Remember, don't buy the cheapest ad listing off ebay or scamazon. I buy one that is say 15-25 bucks over the cheapest. Can't explain but I've had better luck doing this.
 
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