so much confusion on Kawasaki oil filters.

this is what i have used for the last 10 years.
hi, Sorry this post is longer than i had thought. i have finished the yard and blown off the deck and engine of clippings. ok, this is good. parked the mower and checked the oil and the air pre-filter. all good. the next day was moving mower to another house and when i checked the oil, i was overfull! ok,this is not normal. anyway i loaded and moved. to Toms house. before unloading i checked and the oil was ok? my little brother thinks the check valve in the oil filter has failed and oil is draining into the sump?
 
hi, Sorry this post is longer than i had thought. i have finished the yard and blown off the deck and engine of clippings. ok, this is good. parked the mower and checked the oil and the air pre-filter. all good. the next day was moving mower to another house and when i checked the oil, i was overfull! ok,this is not normal. anyway i loaded and moved. to Toms house. before unloading i checked and the oil was ok? my little brother thinks the check valve in the oil filter has failed and oil is draining into the sump?
#1: Check the oil when the engine is stone cold.
#2: Does the oil have a gasoline smell?
I doubt that the Anti Drain Back Valve has failed.
 
If you have room for the filter to clear the engine shroud and any hydraulic hoses 49065-0721 and 49065-0724 will work. I use the 49065-0724 on most all the Kawasaki engine besause it is easier to get off and put on.
 
#1: Check the oil when the engine is stone cold.
#2: Does the oil have a gasoline smell?
I doubt that the Anti Drain Back Valve has failed.
ok, thanks for the reply. cold-cold, as with the kaw. you do not turn dipstick on threads. I have a line on the dipstick top that is horizontal with the engine. it is at the top of the threads. if i turn a 1/4 turn to the left, ccw the stick will drop down a small amount, then remove and check, its overfull, then start and run wot. then slow and shutdown. check it 3 minutes later oil is good. i change every 40 hours and every other change put on a new filter. i will check in the am. then mow Toms place, 1.75 hours and dump old oil and add a new 3600 filter that has been filled with mobile 1 oil, after refilling will see how it goes. any way, thanks for your time. harry
 
STP S-4967
FRAM TG4967
Super Tech MP 4967
WIX 51394
NAPA Gold 1394
If WIX and NAPA Gold still have the convex shaped base plate, this could cause problems with leaking.
 
This is the replacement for the 49065-0721, it is almost 3 inches long. But is narrower on the O.D. But is said to hold same volume of oil. Anyhow, since mine is still under warranty, I will stick to Kaw filters.. (for now)..

GENUINE OEM KAWASAKI OIL FILTER PART # 49065-0724
REPLACES 49065-7010
REPLACES 49065-2078
CAN BE USED ON MOST ALL KAWASAKI ENGINES
CAN ALSO REPLACE 49065-7007



View attachment 62704
The New Universal Upgrade Oil Filter that replaces the Kawasaki 49065-0724 is now the Kawasaki 49065-0734. It also replaces the earlier Kawasaki
49065-2078.
 
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Always like it when folks agonize over the "best" oil filter for their mower and "bigger is better". Millions of engines on OPE have run millions of hours without an oil pump or filter with no oil related failures. Thousands of Continental and Lycoming aircraft engines and VW car engines don't have oil filters. Use whatever helps you sleep at night.
Correction LyCons & VW's all have oil filters.
Back in the day they were cleanable gauze.
There are those that will argue that a filter and gauze screen are not the same. I beg to differ.
A screen & filter do the same job, that is remove particles from the liquid (oil/fuel/water/air) via a mechanical process.
That one has a diffrent "look" to the other does not change the function.
That one may remove finer particles than the other does not change the function.
:devilish:
 
Most of them actually cause damage to the engines by preventing the engine oil from getting to full operating temperature .
Small engines are fitted with coolers if they are going to be used in equipment that operates for very long times continiously like in skid steers , generators & compressors
Unless you are a commercial mower and mow 25 acres in a single session then again the oil coolers are potentially doing more harm than good unless you fit a very expensive one with a thermal bypass valve .
In general I agree with your statement -
Oil Temperature
I was trained to encourage crankcase oil to reach at least 100 C at least once in an operating day. This is to drive off volatile contaminates such as water, fuel & byproducts of combustion, all of which can reduce the efficacy of the oil and thus cause engine damage.
Most engine oils are quite happy to continually operated in the 100 -120C range, although probably better at the 90-100C range
Thermal Bypass/Thermostat
A thermal bypass/ thermostat only works to speed the temperature rise of the oil OR in very cold climates maintain it above a preset level.
Oil Coolers
An oil cooler is just a devise (there are several types) that supplements existing oil cooling capacity.
One should only be fitted when there is a known deficiency in the standard cooling system.
As you point out, overcooling can certainly have a negative effect on the life of the engine & fuel consumption.
If you are considering fitting an oil cooler, I strongly suggest you start by fitting an oil temperature gauge - Monitor the temperatures reached during operation - If you start to see temperatures getting to about 130C then an oil cooler may be indicated - I say may be, because a good clean of the engine cooling system may deliver lower oil temperatures, without the added expense /complexity of an oil cooler.
:devilish:
 
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Wow what an expert! Does not even know VW's had oil filters? You should educate yourself about these things!

Your mower so put what filter you want on it. Me I use larger filters as I keep equipment for decades so have a different viewpoint from people who merely throw away and replace equipment.
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