Snapper Safety Switch Problem!

[seagiant]

Hi,
I have an older M281019BE Snapper RER.

Trying to get it running again after buying it for cheap.

Figure to go through it and fix what was needed.

Had to replace some shot wiring and stayed with the old Harness and went by the Wiring Schematic, but...

Having problems with 2 of the wires that are killing the spark, grounding out the Coil.

They are the RED Wire from the Module going to ignition ground, and the BLACK Wire from the Pedal Switch to ground.

That is the way I read the Schematic anyway?

There are these "T" symbols inbetween, but assume that is just were connectors were at.

If anyone has any ideas on this I am all ears!

Yes, I have OHMed the wires and the switches and everything test good.

Have also tried each wire seperate and everything fires fine but when either of these wires are connected, no Spark!

View attachment 69277

 

[StarTech]

Let's try this first. Remove the interlock module from the harness and test mower with wires connected. If still dead remove the yellow wire from the brake switch and test. Meanwhile going to food store to get robbed of this week's paycheck.

 

[seagiant]

Hi,
Thank you very much!

YES, I have spark with Module pulled.

This by the way is a brand new Module???

 

[seagiant]

Hi,
Ok I was wrong went over the Mower again and the Plug to the Brake safety switch was disconnected.

Plugged that back in no Interlock Module and no spark at the Coil.

Sorry!

Tested Brake safety switch and test good.

Did a Vom test on the yellow wire and got "0" , not "OL".

So...As you mentioned, get spark with yellow wire and interlock disconnected !

 

[StarTech]

Okay either the wiring to the seat is pinched to ground; or the seat connector is not fully plugin or its connector shorting strip is not being disable when the connector is fully connected. Note the latching tab must be intact and fasten. Also someone or something heavy must be on the seat for it to open up. Another quick test would be remove the brown wire at the seat switch to test switch and shorting strip. This would temporary bypass the seat switch. Always re-enable the safety switch.

So you making a little head way.

 

[seagiant]

Hi,
Well, I've got a problem, that's for sure.

Thanks for the help!!!

I'm trying to figure how all this works and admittedly getting lost in the sauce!

Would you be up to explaining your method or reasons in your troubleshooting???

Is a grounded yellow wire the only thing it can be now???

 

[StarTech]

Don't for sure but that is one issue that must be resolved and hopefully that is all it is.

Basically what I had you do is divide up the two branch circuits. It is the old divide and conquer approach. One branch is the PTO side and the other is the seat side. Right now the seat side is shorted to ground for some reason which you trace out and find the shorting point.

 

[seagiant]

Hi,
Well, traced the Yellow Wire all the way back from Seat Switch to the Brake Switch, no breaks cuts, no loose connectors everything look fine.

Retested Seat Switch, all good.

Thanks again!

 

[seagiant]

Hi,
The only thing I can do is replace the yellow wire, but...

Maybe just solder the ends on another wire stuff it in the connector (back probe) to make contact on both ends and see if that works?

If it does then a bad wire no matter how good it looks?

Reaching, but hard to figure what to do when everything test good and looks good.

I've got to figure it out though!

 

[seagiant]

Hi,
Went over everything again.

Found the Connector Shorting Strip,on Seat Switch Connector spring loaded was stuck/sticky, so lubed and freed that up working good now.

Went back over the yellow wire, back probed with another wire, no spark.

Noticed this time yellow wire chaffed in a couple of spots so soldered and shrink wrapped a new wire, no spark!

I don't know what else to do, Seat Switch and Brake switch both test great.

I will just start back at square one and go through everything, is all I know to do.

Any ideas are welcome!