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Snapper Safety Switch Problem!

#1

seagiant

seagiant

Hi,
I have an older M281019BE Snapper RER.

Trying to get it running again after buying it for cheap.

Figure to go through it and fix what was needed.

Had to replace some shot wiring and stayed with the old Harness and went by the Wiring Schematic, but...

Having problems with 2 of the wires that are killing the spark, grounding out the Coil.

They are the RED Wire from the Module going to ignition ground, and the BLACK Wire from the Pedal Switch to ground.

That is the way I read the Schematic anyway?

There are these "T" symbols inbetween, but assume that is just were connectors were at.

If anyone has any ideas on this I am all ears!

Yes, I have OHMed the wires and the switches and everything test good.

Have also tried each wire seperate and everything fires fine but when either of these wires are connected, no Spark!

View attachment 69277


Schematic Font Parallel Technology Diagram


#2

StarTech

StarTech

Let's try this first. Remove the interlock module from the harness and test mower with wires connected. If still dead remove the yellow wire from the brake switch and test. Meanwhile going to food store to get robbed of this week's paycheck.


#3

seagiant

seagiant

Hi,
Thank you very much!

YES, I have spark with Module pulled.

This by the way is a brand new Module???


#4

seagiant

seagiant

Hi,
Ok I was wrong went over the Mower again and the Plug to the Brake safety switch was disconnected.

Plugged that back in no Interlock Module and no spark at the Coil.

Sorry!

Tested Brake safety switch and test good.

Did a Vom test on the yellow wire and got "0" , not "OL".

So...As you mentioned, get spark with yellow wire and interlock disconnected !


#5

StarTech

StarTech

Okay either the wiring to the seat is pinched to ground; or the seat connector is not fully plugin or its connector shorting strip is not being disable when the connector is fully connected. Note the latching tab must be intact and fasten. Also someone or something heavy must be on the seat for it to open up. Another quick test would be remove the brown wire at the seat switch to test switch and shorting strip. This would temporary bypass the seat switch. Always re-enable the safety switch.

So you making a little head way.


#6

seagiant

seagiant

Hi,
Well, I've got a problem, that's for sure.

Thanks for the help!!!

I'm trying to figure how all this works and admittedly getting lost in the sauce!

Would you be up to explaining your method or reasons in your troubleshooting???

Is a grounded yellow wire the only thing it can be now???


#7

StarTech

StarTech

Don't for sure but that is one issue that must be resolved and hopefully that is all it is.

Basically what I had you do is divide up the two branch circuits. It is the old divide and conquer approach. One branch is the PTO side and the other is the seat side. Right now the seat side is shorted to ground for some reason which you trace out and find the shorting point.


#8

seagiant

seagiant

Hi,
Well, traced the Yellow Wire all the way back from Seat Switch to the Brake Switch, no breaks cuts, no loose connectors everything look fine.

Retested Seat Switch, all good.

Thanks again!


#9

seagiant

seagiant

Hi,
The only thing I can do is replace the yellow wire, but...

Maybe just solder the ends on another wire stuff it in the connector (back probe) to make contact on both ends and see if that works?

If it does then a bad wire no matter how good it looks?

Reaching, but hard to figure what to do when everything test good and looks good.

I've got to figure it out though!


#10

seagiant

seagiant

Hi,
Went over everything again.

Found the Connector Shorting Strip,on Seat Switch Connector spring loaded was stuck/sticky, so lubed and freed that up working good now.

Went back over the yellow wire, back probed with another wire, no spark.

Noticed this time yellow wire chaffed in a couple of spots so soldered and shrink wrapped a new wire, no spark!

I don't know what else to do, Seat Switch and Brake switch both test great.

I will just start back at square one and go through everything, is all I know to do.

Any ideas are welcome!


#11

seagiant

seagiant

Hi,
Ok, went through everything again and resecured some connectors and now have spark with the Interlock Module out.

Star Tech, any thoughts on that?

This Module is brand new.


#12

StarTech

StarTech

I wish I did but I have no idea how the interlock is setup on the inside.


#13

seagiant

seagiant

Hi,
Then why was you wondering if I got spark with the Module out of the picture??????


#14

seagiant

seagiant

Hi,
Is that suppose to tell me I have a bad Module???


#15

StarTech

StarTech

seagiant said:
Hi,
Then why was you wondering if I got spark with the Module out of the picture??????
Click to expand...
I was trying to figure out why branch of the circuit was causing to problem. If reading the diagram right things just contradict what I am have seen in the past. THis is why I need to know how that interlock is setup internally. Which I am not asking you to open up a new module to just find out. But if the mower was here I would open up the old module just out curiosity but that's just me wanting to know.


#16

seagiant

seagiant

Hi,
I have an old module, but would a continuity test tell anything between the four connects?


#17

seagiant

seagiant

Hi,
FIXED!

I have a friend that owns a Lawn Mower Shop, but...

Try not to bother him except for emergencies...

Well, deemed this one as I did everything I knew to do, tracing, testing, ect.

He made me aware of the Tab on the Yoke that pushes up the plunger on the brake pedal switch, in the rear of the Mower.

The Tab when I looked was a whole 1/8" from even touching the plunger???

Made no sense but readjusted and it's working!!!

Thanks for the help and this might be something to file away for the future!




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#18

StarTech

StarTech

Well we were looking for a electrical problem when was a mechanical. Oh well there is something new everyday. that proves we are not all knowing.


#19

seagiant

seagiant

Hi,
No, I want to thank you!

I did have an electric problem and by going over everything and checking connections fixed it.

THEN, I had a Module problem, that the Yoke Tab fixed.

This is a refurbed Snapper for my Sister so I wanted all the switches working.

Thanks again!


#20

B

Brucewayne

I would usually welcome an enlarged schematic but I am unable to get the entire print on my laptop and perhaps a 50% reduction would fit. I tried to troubleshoot the print but moving it up and down is less than ideal.


#21

B

bertsmobile1

Brucewayne said:
I would usually welcome an enlarged schematic but I am unable to get the entire print on my laptop and perhaps a 50% reduction would fit. I tried to troubleshoot the print but moving it up and down is less than ideal.
Click to expand...
Save the image as a jpg
Then open it in any image browser and from the edit menu ( usually ) find "resize" or "adjust"
It should show the image's size either in pixels or inches / cm then have another data box for resolution
Measure your screen , then change on ( not both ) of the sizes to be 10% smaller than the shorter on your screen.
Se the resolution to 72 dpi and you should now have a full size image with a nice little border on your screen.
Personally I never bother with screen diagrams
I always print them out so I can draw on them and set the printer to A3 so I get a nice large print


#22

M

Mike12656

I have 2013 33” Snapper RER I bought used and it was running fine for many years
(Its a great machine) then I want to start it with the key and it would start
After going through the safety switches-wiring-mechanical parts I finally discovered it was the the module
I dont remember what I did (I must’ve went around the module) and it started right up
It been running great for 2 years except there no safety switches working
I want buy a new module but there too expensive right now
There is a guy on YouTube that works on Snapper RERs Infact I emailed him alot over the years and he diagnosed the problem and came up with a solution it was great!
I’ll have to look for link and forward to you
-Michael


#23

M

Mike12656

www.youtube.com

Jim Jackson (Jim's Fix-It Shop)

Hi! I'm Jim and this is Jim's Fix it Shop or JandR Woodworking. I started this channel to help you do things easier, faster, and safer. To provide tips and reviews and step-by-step help to fit your needs and projects. The way I do things are solely the way I've been doing it for 40 years and the...
www.youtube.com www.youtube.com


#24

E

Ed5060

seagiant said:
Hi,
FIXED!

I have a friend that owns a Lawn Mower Shop, but...

Try not to bother him except for emergencies...

Well, deemed this one as I did everything I knew to do, tracing, testing, ect.

He made me aware of the Tab on the Yoke that pushes up the plunger on the brake pedal switch, in the rear of the Mower.

The Tab when I looked was a whole 1/8" from even touching the plunger???

Made no sense but readjusted and it's working!!!

Thanks for the help and this might be something to file away for the future!




Save
Share

Click to expand...
Do you have a PIC of that plunger assembly?


#25

M

Mike12656

Mike12656 said:
www.youtube.com

Jim Jackson (Jim's Fix-It Shop)

Hi! I'm Jim and this is Jim's Fix it Shop or JandR Woodworking. I started this channel to help you do things easier, faster, and safer. To provide tips and reviews and step-by-step help to fit your needs and projects. The way I do things are solely the way I've been doing it for 40 years and the...
www.youtube.com www.youtube.com
Click to expand...


#26

M

Mike12656



#27

J

Johner

Maybe this will help. Does your seat have bumper on it?
My problem was similar, everything checked good, changed this, new that, nothing worked.
Back to my seat, "it had bumpers maybe not the right definition" bumpers were very deuterated.
Replaced them because they needed replaced. After everything worked perfect. Might want to check the bumpers. No bull story, true.


#28

seagiant

seagiant

Hi,
Well, after all of this on My Sister's Snapper...

I was using my Snapper, cut my yard, no problem.

Then later, went to put it away, and no start???

Went straight for the Safety Switch Grounds and found that the Coil was bad!

Put in an extra used Coil and she started right up and put her away.

Probably 5 minutes of troubleshooting, so better than I was!!!


#29

seagiant

seagiant

Johner said:
Maybe this will help. Does your seat have bumper on it?
My problem was similar, everything checked good, changed this, new that, nothing worked.
Back to my seat, "it had bumpers maybe not the right definition" bumpers were very deuterated.
Replaced them because they needed replaced. After everything worked perfect. Might want to check the bumpers. No bull story, true.
Click to expand...
Hi,
I found my problem and FIXED, but thanks, Jim Jackson is a good Man and a great help with these Mowers!!!


#30

seagiant

seagiant

Ed5060 said:
Do you have a PIC of that plunger assembly?
Click to expand...
ezgif-7-3e0a4f88e1.jpg


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