Simplicity wheels seized to axles

[okobojo]

I bought a 1990 Simplicity 12.5 LTH this weekend. Previous owner told me one rear tire has a slow leak. I aired up the tire, mowed my lawn and was very happy with the way the mower ran and with the cut. The hydro looses power when I go up a hill but I'm ok with that for now and will address that issue next year.

I have a used set of good tires for the tractor and would like to put them on, however, the original, 25 year old wheels won't come off. I've tried escalating measures each night for the last three nights.

First I removed the grease cap then pulled the e-clip and washer. According to the exploded view that's all that is holding these things on. The first night I tried tons of PB blaster and an hour of pulling yanking and pounding (being careful not to damage the axle).

The second night I spent $40 on a quality gear puller and a couple cheap eye bolts. I used the wheel weight holes in the rims to put the eye bolts in so I could hook the gear puller to them. The eye bolts distorted and the eyes opened. I escalated my anti-rust measures to a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF, which I let soak overnight.

The third night (tonight), I bought heavy duty 3/8" 16 eye bolts and nuts and some nut freezing spray.I spent two hours trying everything I had tonight, including a propane torch, but I can't get either wheel to budge. I even broke a 2x4 trying to leverage it off from behind the wheel.

I'm stumped. Would somebody tell me there's a set screw I have to remove or something so I can laugh at myself then get on with my life!?

 

[RoperGuy]

Yeah I did this last week I don't understand why they don't use never seize from the factory. It's simply rusted in there, continue with the penetrating lube, I would suggest "hanging" the rear end off the ground by the rim, I used my tailgate but get yourself a solid brass punch and try to pound the axel out. Heat will help. Be careful not to damage the axel though.

 

[logan01]

You will likely need a bfh and a torch. If you ever get it off, clean the wheel and shaft well and either grease the crap out of it or give it a decent coat of anti-seize.

 

[bertsmobile1]

You will likely need a bfh and a torch. If you ever get it off, clean the wheel and shaft well and either grease the crap out of it or give it a decent coat of anti-seize.

Greasing the rear axel is one of those jobs that good quality service technicians each service.
Home owners never do this and a lot of big box glass front shops never seem to get around to doing it either sorry to say.
The only thing holding it on is corrosion and that will take time.
Get some good penetrating oil, I use 1:1 atf & acetone.
Tap the square key in as far as you can get it go go warm the wheel then dab the penetrant own the key slot.
You might need to do this daily for several weeks.
I drive the mower around without the retainer fitted doing hard turns & a lot of sudden stops & reverses, eventually it will free up.

Do not try silly things like pulling the wheel as you will rip out the entire axel it is only helt in by a very small thackery washer & removing the broken pieces & repairng the box is a big job.

 

[reynoldston]

It can come to a point that you just wouldn't get the wheel off the axle no matter what you do. One thing I have done in the pass is just leave the wheel on the axle and change the tire in the tractor, it isn't a pleasant job but can be done. What you might also do is take the differential apart, remove axle, then press the axle out with a shop press. If it was possible to use heat I would say do that but then it will just do a lot of damage so it has to be removed cold. I do hope you the best of luck with the penetrating oil but I have found it just doesn't work some times.