Simplicity Regent brake pedal switch question

[Rick51]

I have a 2000 Simplicity Regent and haveing a problem with having to slam down the brake pedal to allow the starter to engage. Once running its fine. I went to the dealer and he gave me a new switch. Heres the problem. The new switch is black. I have to identical switches side by side and they are both grey. The dealer say the parts diagram dont say which one is the start switch nor if the grey has been superseeded by the black one.

The mfg number of the mower is 1693915. Not sure what the package number is, but that number is 1693916.

 

[Rivets]

First, both the 1693915 and 1693916 use the same switches. That being said you still have a problem, they both contain two switches, a black one and a grey one. You are going to have to do some detective work to find out which one you will need, as they are not interchangeable. Also, my info is that neither one has been superseded.

 

[Rick51]

Thanks for the reply. That's part of my problem, as the photo shows, both of mine are grey. I was hoping someone would either know by the wire color which one was which. I am not sure what the other switch is for.
Will either one cause the engine not to start if unplugged? If either one unplugged doesn't allow the engine to start, how does one figure out which one to replace? I would replace both of them, but I am back to the grey, black problem on what goes where as I said, both of mine are grey.

 

[Rivets]

If your dealer can’t help you figure that out, with a wiring diagram, then I would do one of there things. I would ask him if you replaced both with two grey switches, would he allow you to return them? If two grey switches don’t work, I would be contacting Simplicity for a wiring diagram. Finally, if your dealer can’t help you solve the problem, I would let Simplicity know that when I contacted them. Also, electrical problems can be very hard at time, even for any experiencEd tech, so you need the patience of Job.

 

[Chuter]

If you go to www.simplicitymfg.com, under "Support" choose "Manuals" and type in your model (part number). The first choice in the results is electrical information manual for 2002. It has wiring diagrams for all the models that year, yours starts on page 55 (on the diagram, not the finder). It shows both switches, with part numbers and wire colors. It also shows what position the switch is in (closed is a complete circuit, open is a non circuit). I'd test each switch in each pedal position, and see which one is not acting correctly, and replace it.

I don't know the difference between the two part numbers, it's possible the black one failed previously and was replaced with a gray, and that is the root of your problem.

 

[bertsmobile1]

One will most likely be open & close when the plunger is depressed which is usually the cranking circuit
The other is most likely closed & will open when the plunger is depressed and that is the magneto cut out safety switch .
One will have battery voltage on one side
The other will have no voltage because it is a ground switching circuit
Note this is generic & not specific to your machine which may have relays ,
If you are not good with electrickery then post your full details so we can also download the correct wiring diagram for your mower
It saves a lot of confusion
AFAIK the green & yellow wires are the cranking circuit so the switch should connect the green ( + 12V ) to the yellow which triggers the solenoid to crank the engine, if and only if the other switches in the cranking circuit are working properly thus that switch is called NO ( normally open ) & connects when the plunger is depressed

The purple & tan wires are the magneto cut out and they are closed to ground the magneto & turn the engine off unless the pedal is depressed
Again this will depend upon other switches in the circuit
Simplicity ( & Deere ) appreciate that circuitary is virtually not taught in USA schools so very few can understand the simplist wiring diagrams so they highlight each individual circuit on the total schematic so electrical dummies can follow it easily , in Simplicity's case they made each circuit bold so you only have to worry about the stuff that is connected by the bold lines & can ignore the rest .
Simplicity & JD must hate wigg makers & head polish makers who benefit greatly from DIY's ripping their hair out .

 

[Rick51]

Thanks to all for the very informative replies. If I understand correctly, the switch with the grn/yellow wires is the switch that when depressed allows it to start. I located the manual and found the parts listing which of course are grey and switches. However, no wires colors were shown.
If the diagram is accurate to the placement of the switches, it appears I need the black switch as it matches the location of my switch with the grn/yellow wires. I wonder why mine has both grey switches. Will replacing it with a black switch cause issue?
To reiterate, My only issue is the pedal must be slammed down hard to make it start. All is fine after that.
Full details are a 38 in cut model year 2000 Regent with the package number of 1693916 and mfg number 1693915 with a Kohler engine
Again thanks for the replies, You guys are great and probably the most informative help group I have used. Greatly appreciate your help

 

[StarTech]

Okay the black body switch is a normally open switch and the grey is a normally closed. Pedal Up.

Otherwords the 1704379 is the black switch and the 1714770 is the grey switch. The 1704379 is in the starter circuit if that helps.

 

[bertsmobile1]

The contacts wear / corrode over time as does the pedal pivot
I simply put a 2mm self tapper in the end of the plunger to make it longer
eventually the switch will wear out, they are cheap in more ways than one
Different makers use different colours so at the factory they can be easy to sort out
Imagine having to sit there and check 2000 mixed up switches to work out which was what
Down side is the coding is not universal among the switch makers
And yes you have got it right

 

[StarTech]

Also it seems that the ones that runs a positive voltage thru the contacts tends to burn the contacts. Using then a negative (ground circuit) don't seem to the same burning of the contacts.