Seems Hard Start Hot

OldDiyer

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Another question for you repair people, thinking about my issue I am wondering why and how does this type carb drain to intake if it were to over fill with fuel ? By the way it is made it sits flat and fuel is well below any outlets to pass to intake so what am I missing? I guess I am just trying to learn something on these type carbs. I never dealt with any side draft type carbs as I think that is what these are.
After rereading the posts, the only excess fuel would be whatever is in the 8in fuel line from pump because the pump sits higher than the carb and is higher than the tank pickup. That line is 1/4in inside so can't be much fuel in it. Sorry but just trying to understand this problem.
 

slomo

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I pulled the fuel line and blew into it and no restriction and could hear air going into carburetor
Tells me the carb needle is open.
I figure with fuel pushing float should seal run vacuum up to about 7in and let it set, 15 mins and vacuum is gone and also
You have to flip the carb OVER or upside down to pressure test the needle. Needle/seat needs to be wet while testing. Spray with PB Blaster penetrating lube or some other oily spray. Not silicone nor WD-40.
I have gas in my hand pump FAIL.
Agree.
OEM kit looks it up and we have it $87.76 plus tax
You talking carb rebuild kit?
 

OldDiyer

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Slomo
First reply: Blew thru line after 8-10 hours. Where would the gas go if it is a side draft Carb? But my problem is if it is hot and only sits 15 mins. or so than it starts like it is flooded.
Second reply: What would the difference make if the needle and seat have to seal with the carb installed on tractor and bowel is full of fuel should also be sealing, it isn't upside down at that point.
Third reply: Yes, and I didn't get the point that the kits were all made in China so why sell it for the list price of a Briggs kit?
 

Freddie21

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Just because it is an true OEM part, doesn't mean it's not made in China. I get OEM parts from all over the globe.
 

OldDiyer

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That is true but his answer was ALL of these are made in China and that's my point it's a carb kit so why sell it at list price of $87.00 when you can get them online for a fourth of that price. If it were a full carburetor, I could understand because of quality controls that may or may not go into the cost.
 

Johner

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Another question for you repair people, thinking about my issue I am wondering why and how does this type carb drain to intake if it were to over fill with fuel ? By the way it is made it sits flat and fuel is well below any outlets to pass to intake so what am I missing? I guess I am just trying to learn something on these type carbs. I never dealt with any side draft type carbs as I think that is what these are.
After rereading the posts, the only excess fuel would be whatever is in the 8in fuel line from pump because the pump sits higher than the carb and is higher than the tank pickup. That line is 1/4in inside so can't be much fuel in it. Sorry but just trying to understand this problem.
I have a similar problem with a B&S Vanguard mod. 294440-0414-01 V twin. Only thing I can think off is a small peace of dirt does not allow the shut off to close fully. (new shutoff valve) . When the machine came the problem was not enough fuel now too much. The engine is in a Cushman Hauler.
 

OldDiyer

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SUCCESS !!! This is the update, first off to Slomo and ILENGINE Thank you both for taking the time to give me direction as to what I needed to do to get me on the right track for the repair. I did the compete carburetor rebuild looking for the condition and was shocked as to how good this carburetor looked inside seeing as how it has never been taken apart before, I've owned it since new 22 years ago every thing good till I removed the float and looked at the seat I couldn't believe what I saw. In all the years I worked on cars and trucks I have never seen this before and I am 77. the tip of the needle is completely worn down to drop into the center of the seat. I am adding photos so people can see what it looks like. Job went pretty straight forward and seems to be fine will have to see after it has been used awhile. the only thing I ran into was that the gasket for the solinoid was not correct in the kit so just used the old one. Again Thanks for help
 

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slomo

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SUCCESS !!! This is the update, first off to Slomo and ILENGINE Thank you both for taking the time to give me direction as to what I needed to do to get me on the right track for the repair. I did the compete carburetor rebuild looking for the condition and was shocked as to how good this carburetor looked inside seeing as how it has never been taken apart before, I've owned it since new 22 years ago every thing good till I removed the float and looked at the seat I couldn't believe what I saw. In all the years I worked on cars and trucks I have never seen this before and I am 77. the tip of the needle is completely worn down to drop into the center of the seat. I am adding photos so people can see what it looks like. Job went pretty straight forward and seems to be fine will have to see after it has been used awhile. the only thing I ran into was that the gasket for the solinoid was not correct in the kit so just used the old one. Again Thanks for help
Another satisfied customer. Great to hear you found something. And thanks for reporting back about it.

You know that carb needle/seat needs pressure tested at 7psi?? Think I mentioned that. Get to work buddy LOL.
 
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