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So, about a week or so I posted about my Craftsman tractor not starting good on a hill but now am having same issue but seems whenever it gets hot after cutting grass and I let it set for a while it is hard to start, like it is flooding because it starts hard and seems to be rich starting. Outside of this it is running well but this is not the way I want keep this up. Before I start any type of repair I am hoped to get some advice up front. Thinking it is a fuel problem and trying to diagnose the problem I just checked a few minor things; this machine is serviced well so most things are checked over. I checked air filter and pre filter and they are fine, choke is opening fully, so what I did to get a little better idea I had it warmed up good and let it set a bit and hard start, to cancel out things I pinched off the fuel line after the filter and fuel pump let it set a bit and it started just fine did this a few times and seems to start fine. I do hear the carb solenoid switching, is it possible that the fuel pump for some reason is letting fuel to the carb when not needed and causing the problem? Is there a way to check the pump for this problem. I don't want to half a-- this repair and would like to fix it correctly. I will wait for your info before I start buying parts I don't really need.
Briggs & Stratton
21.5 HP I/C Platinum Intek
YBSXS>7242VF 274844
Model: 445777
Type 0154 E1
Code 100418Y G
Craftsman Model 917.272452
Thanks in Advance

Does that have that auto-choke deal on it ?

No this does not have an auto choke it is manual.

I would say there is a possible issue with the float valve not sealing and allowing the carb to overfill when sitting causing a flooding issue. The fuel pump is vacuum and will allow fuel to flow through it by gravity if the fuel level in the tank is above the fuel pump. Also the fuel solenoid on the carb just prevents the afterfire bang when shutoff, it will not prevent the carb from overflowing and flooding the engine.

If it is the needle and seat, wouldn't I be getting some running problem when the engine is running after startup? Just thinking back to my car repair days and bad float seal would cause over fueling running. I was thinking maybe carb issue but wasn't wanting to go there unless I had to. To order a rebuild kit is it smart to use the factory kit or can I go after market? Thanks

It could be leaking slow enough to drain the fuel between the pump and the carb over a few hours, but not leaking bad enough to causing overfueling while running. And I would stay with the factory kit. Have had issues with aftermarket kits sometimes. Can be hit and miss and you won't know until after installed.

OldDiyer said:

I pinched off the fuel line after the filter and fuel pump let it set a bit and it started just fine did this a few times and seems to start fine.

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To me, sounds like a leaky needle and seat. Those need to be pressure tested to 7psi. Spray some lube on the needle, needle must be wet. Test for 30 minutes. Should not drop in psi.

OldDiyer said:

I do hear the carb solenoid switching,

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That tells you nothing. Need to remove it from the carb body. Turn the key on and off. The plunger should extend with key off. Yours could have a corroded plunger rod or other issue. Just hearing a click tells you zero. You have to test these parts to verify they work. Like oh the spark plugs "look good". Nope....... Doesn't mean they will fire under compression.

OldDiyer said:

is it possible that the fuel pump for some reason is letting fuel to the carb when not needed and causing the problem?

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Carb needle/seat controls this IF it is working proper.

Just to let you know, I am going to do some hands-on testing tomorrow. Will post results to get your input. I do have a few short cut ideas to try to test that needle and seat so will get back to you all after I try them on the tractor. Before I went nuts, I wanted to wait for a little more input and guess it is going to the same place so time to do some testing.

So did the testing and found this, when I first started, I pulled the fuel line and blew into it and no restriction and could hear air going into carburetor tells me after setting the fuel is low now mind you carburetor is still mounted to tractor and will also still run. Run the tractor so carb gets filled with fuel and start with a vaccum test to line as I figure with fuel pushing float should seal run vacuum up to about 7in and let it set, 15 mins and vacuum is gone and also, I have gas in my hand pump FAIL. Run again to fill up bowel with fuel and set up to do the pressure test hardly got 2lbs pressure and same thing hear the air escaping to intake FAIL. Now I am still not 100% certain this is a float problem but because of having low fuel to start with to me there has to be something going on in this carburetor.
Next take advice and call a known good parts and repair store also an Ace Hardware but also know they do a big online parts business. Call give them the 797890 part number and tell them I want the OEM kit looks it up and we have it $87.76 plus tax OK I'm on my way. When I get there, they had me a blister pack all it has on it is a little sticker with the part number and about half of the Briggs name but then I also notice package origin China. So question the counter guy and right away he gets a manager, and I tell him I wanted the OEM kit and if I wanted the run of the mill kit, I would get it for $12.00 online. He tells me all these come from China, and I just tell him Well than why are you selling them for Briggs list prices and left the store. Needless to say, I ordered online but will have to wait till early next week for it to get to me. At least I can still use the tractor as is till I get the parts to rebuild the carburetor. Thanks again for the help and will keep you posted as to how I come out.

Another question for you repair people, thinking about my issue I am wondering why and how does this type carb drain to intake if it were to over fill with fuel ? By the way it is made it sits flat and fuel is well below any outlets to pass to intake so what am I missing? I guess I am just trying to learn something on these type carbs. I never dealt with any side draft type carbs as I think that is what these are.
After rereading the posts, the only excess fuel would be whatever is in the 8in fuel line from pump because the pump sits higher than the carb and is higher than the tank pickup. That line is 1/4in inside so can't be much fuel in it. Sorry but just trying to understand this problem.

OldDiyer said:

I pulled the fuel line and blew into it and no restriction and could hear air going into carburetor

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Tells me the carb needle is open.

OldDiyer said:

I figure with fuel pushing float should seal run vacuum up to about 7in and let it set, 15 mins and vacuum is gone and also

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You have to flip the carb OVER or upside down to pressure test the needle. Needle/seat needs to be wet while testing. Spray with PB Blaster penetrating lube or some other oily spray. Not silicone nor WD-40.

OldDiyer said:

I have gas in my hand pump FAIL.

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Agree.

OldDiyer said:

OEM kit looks it up and we have it $87.76 plus tax

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You talking carb rebuild kit?

Slomo
First reply: Blew thru line after 8-10 hours. Where would the gas go if it is a side draft Carb? But my problem is if it is hot and only sits 15 mins. or so than it starts like it is flooded.
Second reply: What would the difference make if the needle and seat have to seal with the carb installed on tractor and bowel is full of fuel should also be sealing, it isn't upside down at that point.
Third reply: Yes, and I didn't get the point that the kits were all made in China so why sell it for the list price of a Briggs kit?

Just because it is an true OEM part, doesn't mean it's not made in China. I get OEM parts from all over the globe.

That is true but his answer was ALL of these are made in China and that's my point it's a carb kit so why sell it at list price of $87.00 when you can get them online for a fourth of that price. If it were a full carburetor, I could understand because of quality controls that may or may not go into the cost.

OldDiyer said:

Another question for you repair people, thinking about my issue I am wondering why and how does this type carb drain to intake if it were to over fill with fuel ? By the way it is made it sits flat and fuel is well below any outlets to pass to intake so what am I missing? I guess I am just trying to learn something on these type carbs. I never dealt with any side draft type carbs as I think that is what these are.
After rereading the posts, the only excess fuel would be whatever is in the 8in fuel line from pump because the pump sits higher than the carb and is higher than the tank pickup. That line is 1/4in inside so can't be much fuel in it. Sorry but just trying to understand this problem.

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I have a similar problem with a B&S Vanguard mod. 294440-0414-01 V twin. Only thing I can think off is a small peace of dirt does not allow the shut off to close fully. (new shutoff valve) . When the machine came the problem was not enough fuel now too much. The engine is in a Cushman Hauler.

SUCCESS !!! This is the update, first off to Slomo and ILENGINE Thank you both for taking the time to give me direction as to what I needed to do to get me on the right track for the repair. I did the compete carburetor rebuild looking for the condition and was shocked as to how good this carburetor looked inside seeing as how it has never been taken apart before, I've owned it since new 22 years ago every thing good till I removed the float and looked at the seat I couldn't believe what I saw. In all the years I worked on cars and trucks I have never seen this before and I am 77. the tip of the needle is completely worn down to drop into the center of the seat. I am adding photos so people can see what it looks like. Job went pretty straight forward and seems to be fine will have to see after it has been used awhile. the only thing I ran into was that the gasket for the solinoid was not correct in the kit so just used the old one. Again Thanks for help

OldDiyer said:

SUCCESS !!! This is the update, first off to Slomo and ILENGINE Thank you both for taking the time to give me direction as to what I needed to do to get me on the right track for the repair. I did the compete carburetor rebuild looking for the condition and was shocked as to how good this carburetor looked inside seeing as how it has never been taken apart before, I've owned it since new 22 years ago every thing good till I removed the float and looked at the seat I couldn't believe what I saw. In all the years I worked on cars and trucks I have never seen this before and I am 77. the tip of the needle is completely worn down to drop into the center of the seat. I am adding photos so people can see what it looks like. Job went pretty straight forward and seems to be fine will have to see after it has been used awhile. the only thing I ran into was that the gasket for the solinoid was not correct in the kit so just used the old one. Again Thanks for help

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Another satisfied customer. Great to hear you found something. And thanks for reporting back about it.

You know that carb needle/seat needs pressure tested at 7psi?? Think I mentioned that. Get to work buddy LOL.