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I was loading this mower on a trailer and was by myself. the mower started to roll off the trailer so i put it into a forward gear to stop it. i got it home, try to start itand it won't turn over. i think i bent the shaft on the transmission pulley. how do i change this. thanx for any help

I doubt it is the pulley. More than likely you have an electrical problem, wiring or safety switch. Try this procedure to make sure that this is not the case, before tearing into the unit.

Electrical* problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things.
1. * How well you understand basic electricity.
2. *What tools you have and know how to use.
3. *How well you follow directions.
4. *You don't overlook or assume anything and verify everything.

Remember we cannot see what you are doing. *You are our eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. *You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. *The two basic tools we will ask you to use are a test light and a multi-meter. *If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. *These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. *Now let's solve this problem.

First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and *voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good.*

Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. *One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.*

Third, *check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. *If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. *If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. *If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring.*

Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position q(you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch).*

Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again).*

Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.

After you have gone through each of the above steps, let us know what happened when you did each step. *At that point we will have great info to tell you how to proceed. *Remember you are our eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible.

Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. *If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. *Youtube also has some videos and as you know a picture is worth a thousand words.

thanx for responding. it's not elect. when i crank it it stops cuz there's a serious drag at on point which won't allow the engine to turn over. i tried to rotate the motor from the top when it stops. seems like somthings preventing it to fully rotate

Ok, that info changes how to proceed. I wound check valve clearance first. If you post the engine model and serial numbers, I will try to post a service manual.

how do i remove the drive belt?

As said it sounds an OHV valve problem. IT may got so loose it dropped a push rod or worn one in two. But we will need the model number of the mower and the engine info.

Take out the spark plug and try to crank the engine.

thanx to all that responded to my post. When I get to it, I will report back to let u all no what it was for any future members to be.

Welcome to the forum!
Hopefully, we can help you get that mower running again.

hello forum, as i promised, i'd get back to you'se all to let u know what my problem was. i have to remove the spark plug to allow the motor to turn over. re-insert the plug and VIOLA! it runs nice and even, no hiccups. now, any help would be appreciated. t-u
(too much compression?)

Have you checked the oil level, want to make sure you have no fuel in the oil. When you took it off the trailer raw fuel got into the cylinder and crankcase. If no fuel in the crankcase, it’s possible that fuel just hydrolocked the cylinder and when you removed the plug, you released the pressure and problem was solved. If it happens again, you’ll have to post back and we look into other possibilities.

Your engine s hydro locking
This is caused by the float valve in the carb leaking .he fuel trickles down the manifold & into the cylinder.
Liquids do not compress so the starter can not turn over the engine.
Removing the spark plug and cranking the engine expells this fuel so the starter can start the engine.
Check your oil
Chances are it is overfull & smells like fuel
If so it confirms a leaking carb.

ok, got it. Thank you for replying. Before I do all this, would a petcock help in any way, there is none.

I’ve always said that putting a shut off into the line is just a bandaid, not a solution. If the float needle and seat are working properly there is no need for a peacock.

i have gas in my oil, thank you for bringin this up. what's next?

You have two choices, bandaid or fix. First choice bandaid, install a shut off in fuel line, drain the oil to remove contaminated oil. Put in fresh oil. You must always remember to shut the fuel off when not in use or you will need to do this again. Second choice fix, remover carb and have it cleaned and rebuilt. Drain oil and put in fresh oil. You should now have the problem solved and don’t have to worry about it. My recommendation, fix it and not worry it I forget to shut it off.

Rivets said:

You have two choices, bandaid or fix. First choice bandaid, install a shut off in fuel line, drain the oil to remove contaminated oil. Put in fresh oil. You must always remember to shut the fuel off when not in use or you will need to do this again. Second choice fix, remover carb and have it cleaned and rebuilt. Drain oil and put in fresh oil. You should now have the problem solved and don’t have to worry about it. My recommendation, fix it and not worry it I forget to shut it off.

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thank you for takin the time to help me sort this out. married, with children, and no money. don't mind gettin my hands dirty. hope you win the lottery one day soon!

I probably won’t because I throw my money at things with far better odds.

When I was at school the lotteries were run by the government and both the maths teacher & economics teacher described them thus " Lotteries are tax for the numerically illeterate"
As for your mower there is a third option,
DO both .
All of the locally made push mowers have a tap on the fuel line &I always fit one to every mower that comes in for service.
I encoursge customers to turn the tap off & starve the engine rather than turning it off to keep the carb dry & prevent gum build up.
It also makes servicing the engine easier as the tap is always the first thing in the fuel line so I can turn it off to change filters & work on carbs rather than clamping the fuel line.

I installed a new brass seat and needle valve and gas still pours out of the carb. can anyone tell me if there's supposed to be a rubber tip on the carbs solenoid. i don't have one. it's working ok.
It's a walbro 5-4993 Carb

Orangegud said:

I installed a new brass seat and needle valve and gas still pours out of the carb. can anyone tell me if there's supposed to be a rubber tip on the carbs solenoid. i don't have one. it's working ok.
It's a walbro 5-4993 Carb

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The after fire solenoid is not the root cause of the leakage. Either the needle valve and seat are leaking or you have float that is not floating. First invert the carburetor with the float in place nomally and apply either 5-10 air pressure have fuel via gravity above the carburetor. Either way you are checking to see the needle and seat are leaking or not. Note with the brass seat you should a rubber tipped needle in place.

I ended up replacing the brass seat, needle valve and float. So far, alls well. Thanx to all on this forum that helped me through.