When it looses power and dies will the engine turn over when you turn the key to the start position. If you have 14.6 volts at the battery and the clutch why is it dying. With voltage like that at the battery and the clutch there is not reason it should die from loss of battery voltage. Is it dying from loss of battery voltage or loss of fuel, loss of ignition spark . Diagnostics is 95% of the repair. If you turn key to run position and pull the pto switch will the clutch click in after it dies? Do you still have 12.75 volts at Battery and Clutch terminals? Have you ohmed out the clutch. I hear different ohm values like 2.8 to 3.4.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
Scag wildcat charging system problems
- Thread starter thebuildingguy
- Start date
bertsmobile1
Lawn Royalty
When a customer comes in with a problem like yours this is the way I go about diagnosing it
1) fit a clip on volt meter to the battery leads ( old car one )
2) fit an orange in line spark tester to the spark plugs so I can see it when mowing ( 2 on twins )
3) grab a secondary fuel tank & pair of pliers.
While mowing I monitor the volt meter & spark indicators
When it dies I watch the spark testers
If they glow then as the engine starts to slow down flash and continue to do so till the engine stops then I know it has a fuel related problem ( fuel, carb or valves )
If not then I know it is an electrical / ignition problem .
The instant it stops the secondary fuel tank gets hooked up to the carb & I attempt to start the mower .
If it fires right up and runs then I know it is a fuel supply problem so will be some where from the carb inlet to the tank, including the tank vent .
Now if I can not blow back through the fuel line from the tank side of the fuel pump ( pump has check valve in it ) then I suspect collapsed fuel lines
If it is hard to blow back then goes easy I suspect a blockage inside the fuel tank near the outlet.
If the fuel line sucks back as I take it off & it is easy to blow back through I suspect the tank vent .
TO quote Hlw49, diagnosis is 95% of the job, fixing it is the easy bit .
People on forums all have "that" problem in the back of their minds which sent them mad and have a bad habit of projecting that onto others .
1) fit a clip on volt meter to the battery leads ( old car one )
2) fit an orange in line spark tester to the spark plugs so I can see it when mowing ( 2 on twins )
3) grab a secondary fuel tank & pair of pliers.
While mowing I monitor the volt meter & spark indicators
When it dies I watch the spark testers
If they glow then as the engine starts to slow down flash and continue to do so till the engine stops then I know it has a fuel related problem ( fuel, carb or valves )
If not then I know it is an electrical / ignition problem .
The instant it stops the secondary fuel tank gets hooked up to the carb & I attempt to start the mower .
If it fires right up and runs then I know it is a fuel supply problem so will be some where from the carb inlet to the tank, including the tank vent .
Now if I can not blow back through the fuel line from the tank side of the fuel pump ( pump has check valve in it ) then I suspect collapsed fuel lines
If it is hard to blow back then goes easy I suspect a blockage inside the fuel tank near the outlet.
If the fuel line sucks back as I take it off & it is easy to blow back through I suspect the tank vent .
TO quote Hlw49, diagnosis is 95% of the job, fixing it is the easy bit .
People on forums all have "that" problem in the back of their minds which sent them mad and have a bad habit of projecting that onto others .