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Scag wildcat charging system problems
#1
T
thebuildingguy
T
thebuildingguy
I have a scag wildcat (SMWC-61v) with a Kawasaki 26 hp liquid (Fd731v). I’ve owned the mower for 3 years and it has mowed like a hoss until this season. The mower will start and run in good order. I’ll engage pto and will mow for several minutes then lose power and die if pto not disengaged in time.
1st action taken -replaced every moving part on the mower deck(pulleys(5) idler arm bearings(2) spindles(3)belts(2). -thought bearings heating up and seizing because when I remove the mower deck belt from the electric clutch, it will run with the pto engaged all day without any problems. (With no load)
2nd action taken - verified all safety switches working properly, all fuel system verified and working properly. All air system cleaned and verified.
3rd action taken- I found 12.6 volts DC across battery terminals regardless of rpm’s
4th action taken- verified 42 volts AC from stator, replaced 20 amp fuse (2) and fuse holder (2) in line on charging system.
5th action taken- removed and cleaned engine ground connections and replaced voltage regulator.
All action items above resulted in no change .
I thought I might run new conductor from voltage regulator output to positive side battery but I cannot find 13.5-15 volts DC IN ANY CONDUCTOR/connector in the system . Should this voltage be present somewhere besides across battery terminals ?
please help!!!!
1st action taken -replaced every moving part on the mower deck(pulleys(5) idler arm bearings(2) spindles(3)belts(2). -thought bearings heating up and seizing because when I remove the mower deck belt from the electric clutch, it will run with the pto engaged all day without any problems. (With no load)
2nd action taken - verified all safety switches working properly, all fuel system verified and working properly. All air system cleaned and verified.
3rd action taken- I found 12.6 volts DC across battery terminals regardless of rpm’s
4th action taken- verified 42 volts AC from stator, replaced 20 amp fuse (2) and fuse holder (2) in line on charging system.
5th action taken- removed and cleaned engine ground connections and replaced voltage regulator.
All action items above resulted in no change .
I thought I might run new conductor from voltage regulator output to positive side battery but I cannot find 13.5-15 volts DC IN ANY CONDUCTOR/connector in the system . Should this voltage be present somewhere besides across battery terminals ?
please help!!!!
#2
H
hlw49
H
hlw49
Ok had one doing the same thing yesterday. I found the charge wire where the harness plugs into the engine harness was melted. Everything was operating like it should. So I did what you suggested and ran a wire from the regulator out put terminal to the battery cable terminal on the starter. Works fine and charges the battery like it should. Have done this many times in cases like this.
#3
T
thebuildingguy
This forum is priceless because of the knowledgable people like you that take the time to help people like me. Thank you for your time.
Very grateful.
T
thebuildingguy
thank you so much. i know just enough about all this to tear up more than I can repair a lot of times. i will wire it this evening and post about it when I’m done.Ok had one doing the same thing yesterday. I found the charge wire where the harness plugs into the engine harness was melted. Everything was operating like it should. So I did what you suggested and ran a wire from the regulator out put terminal to the battery cable terminal on the starter. Works fine and charges the battery like it should. Have done this many times in cases like this.
This forum is priceless because of the knowledgable people like you that take the time to help people like me. Thank you for your time.
Very grateful.
#5
T
thebuildingguy
of course, I’ll be completely lost if I’m wrong about the voltage. I’m afraid this might be beyond my ability to figure out.
please advise at your earliest convenience and thank you.
T
thebuildingguy
I wired from the regulator output and verified 14.6 volts across the battery terminals, however there‘s still no change. it will be a little while before I can start the mower again, so while I wait id like to ask a question.-once started again , if I test the voltage to electric clutch, I’m thinking it’s going to test at 12.6 volts dc ( that’s what it has been throughout this ordeal and I failed to check it after wiring the jumper today. im just guessing so I hope it doesn’t seem foolish but if there is only 12 volts at clutch can I wire from the 14.6 volt jumper at battery to the line inlet of the pto switch to provide the clutch with the correct voltage?your welcome
of course, I’ll be completely lost if I’m wrong about the voltage. I’m afraid this might be beyond my ability to figure out.
please advise at your earliest convenience and thank you.
#6
S
slomo
Huge group of great people on here.
S
slomo
Sure is. This is THE BEST MOWER FORUM ON THE INTERNET.This forum is priceless because of the knowledgable people like you that take the time to help people like me
Huge group of great people on here.
#7
H
hlw49
H
hlw49
I wired from the regulator output and verified 14.6 volts across the battery terminals. U should read battery voltage at the clutch. If not U have some kind of high resistance between the battery and the clutch terminal which I doubt. What did you mean by there's no change? No change where? U probably need to charge the battery.
#8
T
thebuildingguy
So after wiring from the regulator to the starter, i verified 14.6 volts across the battery terminals and the same at the clutch. Prior to doing this I had only 12.6 volts at battery and clutch. however the mower again mows for several minutes and loses power and dies.
if I take the deck belt off of the clutch and start the mower, I can engage the clutch and it will run great all day without fail( I’ve run it this way for 3 hours without fail) but once the deck belt is put on the clutch, i can start the mower, engage the clutch and after several minutes the mower loses power and dies.
every moving part on the mower deck has been replaced .
T
thebuildingguy
By no change, I mean the mower starts and mows several minutes then loses power and dies and will not start again until it sits for at least half an hour.I wired from the regulator output and verified 14.6 volts across the battery terminals. U should read battery voltage at the clutch. If not U have some kind of high resistance between the battery and the clutch terminal which I doubt. What did you mean by there's no change? No change where? U probably need to charge the battery.
So after wiring from the regulator to the starter, i verified 14.6 volts across the battery terminals and the same at the clutch. Prior to doing this I had only 12.6 volts at battery and clutch. however the mower again mows for several minutes and loses power and dies.
if I take the deck belt off of the clutch and start the mower, I can engage the clutch and it will run great all day without fail( I’ve run it this way for 3 hours without fail) but once the deck belt is put on the clutch, i can start the mower, engage the clutch and after several minutes the mower loses power and dies.
every moving part on the mower deck has been replaced .
#9
T
thebuildingguy
I charged battery all night and this evening i held seat sensor down and I started the mower and with brake released and holding the seat sensor down I engaged the pto. the mower deck engaged and continued running without fail for approximately 30 minutes. I then disengaged pto and set brake. with mower still running, I got in the seat, moved mower to grass area and engaged pto. the mower for a few minutes (3-4) and lost power and died. I’ve not ran mower in place with pto engaged until today So maybe this information will help
aby/all advice welcome
T
thebuildingguy
new information:By no change, I mean the mower starts and mows several minutes then loses power and dies and will not start again until it sits for at least half an hour.
So after wiring from the regulator to the starter, i verified 14.6 volts across the battery terminals and the same at the clutch. Prior to doing this I had only 12.6 volts at battery and clutch. however the mower again mows for several minutes and loses power and dies.
if I take the deck belt off of the clutch and start the mower, I can engage the clutch and it will run great all day without fail( I’ve run it this way for 3 hours without fail) but once the deck belt is put on the clutch, i can start the mower, engage the clutch and after several minutes the mower loses power and dies.
every moving part on the mower deck has been replaced .
I charged battery all night and this evening i held seat sensor down and I started the mower and with brake released and holding the seat sensor down I engaged the pto. the mower deck engaged and continued running without fail for approximately 30 minutes. I then disengaged pto and set brake. with mower still running, I got in the seat, moved mower to grass area and engaged pto. the mower for a few minutes (3-4) and lost power and died. I’ve not ran mower in place with pto engaged until today So maybe this information will help
aby/all advice welcome
#10
I
ILENGINE
I
ILENGINE
I am going to take this another direction just for a moment. Worked on one a few years ago which may of been the same mower but don't remember model. Was also having issues with the engine dying after running from 30 minutes to an hour, and finally tracked it down to the fuel line collapsing from the point of where it comes out of the tank where it crossed over to the other side of the frame. The line went from the bottom of the tank on the right side and up across the frame through a wrap around style clamp and then up to the fuel filter and fuel pump on the left side of engine(right side from flywheel) as it was mounted in the frame. The line from the clamp back toward the tank was collapsing.
#11
H
hlw49
H
hlw49
When it looses power and dies will the engine turn over when you turn the key to the start position. If you have 14.6 volts at the battery and the clutch why is it dying. With voltage like that at the battery and the clutch there is not reason it should die from loss of battery voltage. Is it dying from loss of battery voltage or loss of fuel, loss of ignition spark . Diagnostics is 95% of the repair. If you turn key to run position and pull the pto switch will the clutch click in after it dies? Do you still have 12.75 volts at Battery and Clutch terminals? Have you ohmed out the clutch. I hear different ohm values like 2.8 to 3.4.new information:
I charged battery all night and this evening i held seat sensor down and I started the mower and with brake released and holding the seat sensor down I engaged the pto. the mower deck engaged and continued running without fail for approximately 30 minutes. I then disengaged pto and set brake. with mower still running, I got in the seat, moved mower to grass area and engaged pto. the mower for a few minutes (3-4) and lost power and died. I’ve not ran mower in place with pto engaged until today So maybe this information will help
aby/all advice welcome
#12
B
bertsmobile1
B
bertsmobile1
When a customer comes in with a problem like yours this is the way I go about diagnosing it
1) fit a clip on volt meter to the battery leads ( old car one )
2) fit an orange in line spark tester to the spark plugs so I can see it when mowing ( 2 on twins )
3) grab a secondary fuel tank & pair of pliers.
While mowing I monitor the volt meter & spark indicators
When it dies I watch the spark testers
If they glow then as the engine starts to slow down flash and continue to do so till the engine stops then I know it has a fuel related problem ( fuel, carb or valves )
If not then I know it is an electrical / ignition problem .
The instant it stops the secondary fuel tank gets hooked up to the carb & I attempt to start the mower .
If it fires right up and runs then I know it is a fuel supply problem so will be some where from the carb inlet to the tank, including the tank vent .
Now if I can not blow back through the fuel line from the tank side of the fuel pump ( pump has check valve in it ) then I suspect collapsed fuel lines
If it is hard to blow back then goes easy I suspect a blockage inside the fuel tank near the outlet.
If the fuel line sucks back as I take it off & it is easy to blow back through I suspect the tank vent .
TO quote Hlw49, diagnosis is 95% of the job, fixing it is the easy bit .
People on forums all have "that" problem in the back of their minds which sent them mad and have a bad habit of projecting that onto others .
1) fit a clip on volt meter to the battery leads ( old car one )
2) fit an orange in line spark tester to the spark plugs so I can see it when mowing ( 2 on twins )
3) grab a secondary fuel tank & pair of pliers.
While mowing I monitor the volt meter & spark indicators
When it dies I watch the spark testers
If they glow then as the engine starts to slow down flash and continue to do so till the engine stops then I know it has a fuel related problem ( fuel, carb or valves )
If not then I know it is an electrical / ignition problem .
The instant it stops the secondary fuel tank gets hooked up to the carb & I attempt to start the mower .
If it fires right up and runs then I know it is a fuel supply problem so will be some where from the carb inlet to the tank, including the tank vent .
Now if I can not blow back through the fuel line from the tank side of the fuel pump ( pump has check valve in it ) then I suspect collapsed fuel lines
If it is hard to blow back then goes easy I suspect a blockage inside the fuel tank near the outlet.
If the fuel line sucks back as I take it off & it is easy to blow back through I suspect the tank vent .
TO quote Hlw49, diagnosis is 95% of the job, fixing it is the easy bit .
People on forums all have "that" problem in the back of their minds which sent them mad and have a bad habit of projecting that onto others .