ryobi cs26 weed eater won't stay running

[cpurvis]

wow, a bread tie, that's a great tip! even a piece of regular like a strand off a wire brush or wheel really is going to be hard to get to mess up the ID of one of these chambers, as long as you don't go forcing it into too small a hole or start grinding away at it instead of just gently pushing it through, you should be ok. I have yet to mess up one yet... lol

Or a welding torch tip cleaner. Built for the purpose of cleaning small holes.

 

[bertsmobile1]

wow, a bread tie, that's a great tip! even a piece of regular like a strand off a wire brush or wheel really is going to be hard to get to mess up the ID of one of these chambers, as long as you don't go forcing it into too small a hole or start grinding away at it instead of just gently pushing it through, you should be ok. I have yet to mess up one yet... lol

Rule of thumb about pokeing anything through a carb hole.
Try to scratch the outside of the body with your cleaner.
If you can scratch the outside then you can scratch the inside of the holes.
A strand of copper wire is good a strand of steel wire is bad.
Bread ties are fully annealed and relatively soft but I would never think of using one.
Fishing line is good which is what I think you were remembering sinkers ?

 

[motoman]

The fish sinker was a memory of diy Welch plug, e.g., carve a small piece of lead for (light) tapping into the end of a gas port if an OEM welch plug is not available. I only read this and have never tried it. Perhaps the bond is kinda like a dentist who hammers a gold foil into your tooth cavity ( well, they used to). Maybe form a little punch on the grinder to perform this? A lead "stake?"

The suggestion of using a gas welding tip cleaner is interesting. Since they are files I would be careful of forcing. But one is cleaning out crud and as long as the jet size is unaffected , so what? These little cleaning rods come in a little aluminum holder and are not expensive. Next trip to shop I will measure the tip diameters and post .

 

[bertsmobile1]

You can lay the welding torch tip down to ignorance and that perverse spreader of ignorance,,,,, Farce Book.
Then that other morons market place , EVILBAY takes over so some ignorant idiot morons buy 10,000,000 sets of welding tip cleaners from China @ 10c each, advertises them @ $ 2.00 each and makes a killing. This causes Evilbay trolls to do the same thing so then the uninformed see 25 vendors selling welding tip cleaners as "jet cleaners" and because they do not know any better actually believe that they are designed to clean out carby jets.
This get reinforced by all the conspiracy clowns who believe every one is out to steel your money by conspiring to make you buy expensive tools or replace expensive parts that can be fixed easily by any villiage idiot using nothing more than what is laying around his feet. So they repeat the same wrong information all over the place and it even ends up places like this.
The down side is stuff in cyber space stays there forever which just goes on to perpetuate incorrect information and turn falacy into fact.

You are correct, a tip cleaner is a file and it makes the holes in your tip bigger which is one reason why you need to replace them from time to time when you can no longer get your flame profile correct.
The sizes of the holes in a cube carb are measures in .00001".
That is how accurate they need to be and even some thing soft like copper wire can damage them if you try hard enough.
Blowing them "clean" with high pressure air can damage then beyond repair by forcing particles so had into the holes they can not be removed.
Similar to testing "pop of pressure" totally meaning less in 99.99999% of the times buy amusing for monkeys to look at, Looks dramatic on a video clip so every village idiot with a video camera will show you haw to test it, but very few bother to tell you what it means and how it affects your engine, because they don't usually know.

Whoever posted the tip cleaner suggestion, I am not trying to vilify or humiliate you. You are simply passing on information that you have gleened from somewhere and were not able to identify it as being absolute garbage. It is not really your fault & you were only trying to help, but please take this myth out of your repetior .
And before some one chirps up with "I used one to fix mine " , it is not impossible to use a tool that has a 99% change of wrecking something to fix it, there is luck & skill to take into account but information on forums such as this need to be given under the assumption that the person reading it has no idea whatsoever of what they are doing .

 

[motoman]

Well, Bert is hard over on this one and I have never used a gas cleaning tip nor worked on the little carbs. IF the jet outlets are simple aluminum like the carb body maybe the cleaner tips are harmful. IF the passageways are at an angle to the output jet maybe they work. Anyway, you be the judge . In case readers are not familiar here is a picture of mine , made in Canada. The have rounded, polished noses. Reminds me of the devlish tools the dentists use for root canals.:laughing:

 

[cpurvis]

FYI, I recommended the tip cleaner.

If I hadn't used it before, I would not make such a recommendation. Just used mine on a 3 hp Briggs this summer. Before that, a Kawaski 250 dirt bike carb.

Maybe you are too ham handed to use one without enlarging holes. I am not.

Also, no hole--not one--in a carburetor has a tolerance in the 1/100,000 inch range, nor can they even be measured in that range.

 

[bertsmobile1]

Well, Bert is hard over on this one and I have never used a gas cleaning tip nor worked on the little carbs. IF the jet outlets are simple aluminum like the carb body maybe the cleaner tips are harmful. IF the passageways are at an angle to the output jet maybe they work. Anyway, you be the judge . In case readers are not familiar here is a picture of mine , made in Canada. The have rounded, polished noses. Reminds me of the devlish tools the dentists use for root canals.:laughing:

They are dye cast zinc. Tolloson used to do magnesium castings for the racing and aero carbs
very rigid , machines both mechanically & electronically nery cleanly but very easily scratched.
most have no jets as such, just holes precision cut.
they are measured by flow rate not actual size although it would be possible to laser scan each one for accuracy.
sizes are in 1/10's of a thou of an inch , sorry if I got the decimal out of place.
Jet sizes on bigger motors are a lot bigger so there is a lot more space to work in.

Cube carb holes are so fine, soaking in carb cleaner for more than a couple of hours can render them useless.
I use an ultrasonic cleaner and have ruined more than one carb by ovecleaning, Even with a 1/2 strength solution any thing over 1 hour is risky.

No carb maker recommends using a file to work on the jets.
Jets are very sensitive to the surface finish inside the hole.
Back im my race bike ( never really competitive ) tuning days we had a set of very expensive reamers for jet work , should we need a finer adjustment than was available with std jets. And we were playing with dope burning BSA's running mono blocks or TT's and those jet sizes are massive

 

[motoman]

If this forum is to give advice let's try to make a distincton among the carb sizes and techniques for cleaning gummed up units. I believe your decimal was correct , Bert, but it would seem little go-no go gauges might be made out of fine wires and miked to determine channel size. Also cut off wire presents a cutting surface to a jet channel, even copper, though softer. The torch cleaning tips are bull-nosed and polished so if any channel happens to coincide with the tip diameter it might be ideal. Just because the tips have file teeth does not necessarily mean they will automatically enlarge the base metal, does it? If a channel is "packed" with crud a careful pass of an "undersize" tip would cut a channel thru the crud and give a solvent points of attack along the tip path. On the other hand solvent used on a plugged hole would seem to only slowly eat at the front of the crud- plug , require prolonged use, and need the probe's help.

Please note that the different views and suggestions on cleaning may sometimes differ, but they should be an aide to readers, especially those with the little 2 stroke trimmers who do not want to toss them, but work on them. I think we all agree that the jet openings which are carefully calibrated for fuel mixture and power should not be changed in any manner. But the frequency of problems with gummed carbs deserves discussion. Your humble servant.

purvis:thanks for the tip tip

 

[motoman]

Poking around a little...An "E" guitar string has been recommended for cleaning passageways. One style welch plug looked like a concave aluminum washer covering two passageways. To remove: puncture and pry out . To replace use (optional ) nail polish and strike the center to expand. LIke an auto freeze plug (somewhat). There is good coverage of some small carburettors ( like Walbro) at "outdoorproducts." The only dimension I found for a gas passage was .013" dia. I saw a technician tool by Honda which resembled the tip cleaners but not files. No diameters given.

 

[cpurvis]

Poking around a little...An "E" guitar string has been recommended for cleaning passageways. One style welch plug looked like a concave aluminum washer covering two passageways. To remove: puncture and pry out . To replace use (optional ) nail polish and strike the center to expand. LIke an auto freeze plug (somewhat). There is good coverage of some small carburettors ( like Walbro) at "outdoorproducts." The only dimension I found for a gas passage was .013" dia. I saw a technician tool by Honda which resembled the tip cleaners but not files. No diameters given.

motoman, that's a good idea. Guitar strings would probably work very well. They're made in various diameters, from about .008" up to about .050" for a regular guitar. Cheap, too. Once they get above a certain size, they're "wound" strings and would have a less-smooth outer surface than a plain string.

Don't ask for an "E" string, though. There are two E strings on a standard tuned guitar--the smallest and the largest, which are both tuned to E. Just ask for the size you want.