Ryobi bp42 backpack leaf blower won’t start, help please

[B_Griff]

Hi, this is my first post, please be gentle.

TL;DR- leaf blower (ryobi bp42) bogging down and now won’t start at all. I’ve checked the air and fuel filters, fuel lines and replaced the spark plug. I want to learn how to fix small engines, help please.

I purchased a used leaf blower a few seasons ago and it has served me well. In anticipation for the season I pulled it out of the shed started it up and it ran for a bit before getting bogged down and stalling out at full power. After a bit of YouTube, and tinkering I decided to spend the $10 on a set of carb adjustment tools, when I got them I went to start up the blower to see if adjusting the carburetor would fix my problem and it wouldn’t start up at all. So far I have:
Checked the fuel lines and filter
Replaced the dirty air filter
Replaced the spark plug
I’ve enjoyed the tinkering so despite not having any experience fixing anything like this before I’ve decided to see it through. I’m hoping that between YouTube and a forum like this I can learn to fix my leaf blower and eventually my lawnmower, trimmer, etc. Any advice for fixing my leaf blower or recommendations for learning how to fix small engines in general is appreciated.
thank y’all

 

[sgkent]

assuming that the fuel is new, and there are no wasp or bug nests in the exhaust, replace the carb with one that is oem if you can. Those carbs are notorious for doing that after 2 or 3 seasons. Every piece of equipment I have with that style carb needs one every couple seasons. You can extend that if you drain the fuel and run it dry each time you put it away for the day. The thin gasket has a couple flaps on it that act as fuel pump valves and they warp. I have not seen a source for just the small gasket itself and quality rebuild kits are as much as a new carb.

 

[B_Griff]

assuming that the fuel is new, and there are no wasp or bug nests in the exhaust, replace the carb with one that is oem if you can. Those carbs are notorious for doing that after 2 or 3 seasons. Every piece of equipment I have with that style carb needs one every couple seasons. You can extend that if you drain the fuel and run it dry each time you put it away for the day. The thin gasket has a couple flaps on it that act as fuel pump valves and they warp. I have not seen a source for just the small gasket itself and quality rebuild kits are as much as a new carb.

First, thanks for the quick reply

I have not checked the exhaust but will do that next. What is “oem”?

 

[sgkent]

Original Equipment Manufacturer. Meaning if you own a Ford, buy a part made and or sold by Ford, not some clone. If it came with a Walbro carb, look for an original Walbro carb for it, if it is Zama then look for an original Zama carb and not a cheap knockoff copy.

 

[B_Griff]

Original Equipment Manufacturer. Meaning if you own a Ford, buy a part made and or sold by Ford, not some clone. If it came with a Walbro carb, look for an original Walbro carb for it, if it is Zama then look for an original Zama carb and not a cheap knockoff copy.

Thanks, I didn’t realize that would make a difference

 

[bertsmobile1]

Check the spark plug both for a spark and what it looks like
If the carb is working properly then it should be wet after a dozen no fire pulls
Tip the fuel out and put in some nice fresh fuel then pump the purge bulb 50 or so times to flush the old fuel out
LEt us know how it goes

 

[B_Griff]

Check the spark plug both for a spark and what it looks like
If the carb is working properly then it should be wet after a dozen no fire pulls
Tip the fuel out and put in some nice fresh fuel then pump the purge bulb 50 or so times to flush the old fuel out
LEt us know how it goes

Thanks, I can try that today and let y’all know.
Quick question, what’s a good starting point for the carb adjusting screws. I’ve fiddles with them so much I have no idea where they should be at. I have them a full turn counterclockwise from all the way tight. Should I open them up a bit more to start?

 

[B_Griff]

Check the spark plug both for a spark and what it looks like

If the carb is working properly then it should be wet after a dozen no fire pulls
Tip the fuel out and put in some nice fresh fuel then pump the purge bulb 50 or so times to flush the old fuel out
LEt us know how it goes

The spark plug WAS wet, about to check YouTube to see how to check for spark

 

[B_Griff]

No spark, I’m 90% sure I’m checking it right. Pulled it out, plugged it pack into the boot, held it against the engine to ground it and spun it up with my drill.

 

[B_Griff]

from my YouTube searches it looks like the ignition coil needs to be replaced. The gap is still tight between the coil and flywheel, about the width of a business card. I still don’t get a spark after interrupting the circuit so it’s not a wiring thing (I don’t think). A new part is ~$25 so I’m gonna wait a day or two to see if any of y’all have any other tricks or advice before I pull the trigger.