Rookie needs help choosing a zero turn!! HELP!

bertsmobile1

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Usually it is going too fast or running the engine less than full throttle.
While you are getting used to the mower, use you left hand to control the speed and the right hand to steer.
Concentrate on the right hand and in no time flat you will be two hand steering.
 

jac233

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Any advice on blade removal and sharpening? I bought an extra set of blades to swap out when needed and figure I will drop off at the dealer for a sharpening. I would like to learn how to do it myself but there seems to be many opinions on what to use; file or grinder? Also-when tightening the new blades on, can you just hand tighten or do you need air wrench?

I'm only mowing my own lawn and it's about 2 hours each time once a week.
 

Lawnboy18

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Sharpen every 20-25 hours.

Lift front end of the mower to have enough room to work under it.

I use an impact gun to remove the blades. That way I don't have to wrestle with unbolting the blades and holding them.

To sharpen them, use an angle grinder or bench grinder. I like to use the flap wheel for this. Sharpen the blade while keeping a 45 degree angle. This is very important. You don't need to sharpen them until they are razor sharp. They will get dull after the first cut. You could use a file. It is the best way, but a very slow way.

Te reinstall, I use the impact until the bolt is snug. Then, I give a few more pulses to get it tight. Don't forget that blades tighten while turning.

Don't forget to scrape the deck clean when you are under there.
 

Ric

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While some blade sharpening angles of 40 to 45 degrees are used, variations are possible, I'd check with the blade's manufacturer to obtain the exact degree measurement before sharpening. For most standard mower blades, 30° is the most common. As a general rule, always consult your owner's manual.

Magna-Matic Blade Sharpeners are offered in two models. The MAG-9000 is ideal for conventional flat/straight blades, allowing you to dial in a consistent 30° The MAG-8000 is ideal for both conventional flat/straight blades and curved mulching blades, allowing you to dial in a 25-45° angle in 5° increments.
 

bertsmobile1

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And invest is a blade balancer.
The little pryamid on a pin style will be good enough
Ric posted a while back you can get zinc ones for under $ 10
It is very important to balance the blades or the $ 10 you saved from having the shop do them becomes $ 200 for a set of spindles very quickly.
A quik rub with a wire brush is a good place to start then check the balance so you will know if one side needs more metal off than the other.
I rarely sharpen blades as it is not cost efficient for me to do so unless I buy some expensive gear and most of the time when I see a mower the blades are beyond sharpening.

Flap wheels on a 4" or 9" angle grinder seem to be the most forgiving and is what I use then finish off with a file to do the final balance.

Some one posted a good little video nere a few days ago, although he favoured a sharper edge than most would recommend.
 
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