Rider Mower battery question

[bt-99]

Hi, im new to rider mowers and just have a few battery questions. #1: When you go to start your mower for the first time in the spring and it doesn't start, do you just go and buy a new battery or do you try to charge it first? #2: If you try to charge it, how do you know if battery will take a charge or not? #3: Is it necessary to charge mower battery beforing storing for winter and before starting in spring? I never do that. I just leave battery hooked up in mower during storage and hope for the best. How do you do it? Thanks

 

[TonyPrin]

If you live in an area (like I do) that gets temps in the 30s or below your mower's battery can be damaged by the cold. It's best to remove your battery and bring it into a basement or other place with moderate temps. I charge my battery for a few hours 3-4 times in winter and before I first use it with a trickle charger so it's ready to go. If you keep the battery in the mower, you can still charge it before first use but with the cables disconnected. Use an inexpensive battery tester or multimeter (what I use) to test your battery before just replacing it. Finally, my trickle charger shows me if the battery is too damaged to hold a charge.

 

[bt-99]

If you live in an area (like I do) that gets temps in the 30s or below your mower's battery can be damaged by the cold. It's best to remove your battery and bring it into a basement or other place with moderate temps. I charge my battery for a few hours 3-4 times in winter and before I first use it with a trickle charger so it's ready to go. If you keep the battery in the mower, you can still charge it before first use but with the cables disconnected. Use an inexpensive battery tester or multimeter (what I use) to test your battery before just replacing it. Finally, my trickle charger shows me if the battery is too damaged to hold a charge.

I keep my mower in garage where it is around 50 degrees and I keep battery in mower and just unplug negative cable when storing. That is all I mainly do. You said if I charge battery in mower to make sure I charge it with cables unhooked, just curious why they need to be unhooked. Does it hurt mower when charging when their hooked up? Also if I test a battery with a multimeter,will it give a false reading if it's completely dead? If I hook a battery that can't be revived to a charger, will it blow up or it just won't charge? Thanks

 

[StarTech]

When in question take the battery to a local battery store like AutoZone and have it tested.

Most bad simply will not either take a charge or hold a charge. As long you don't connect it up backwards most batteries that complete dead will simply not charge but can damage some the el cheapo chargers.

And have save badly deleted batteries by using my 12V 60W solar panel.

 

[bullet bob]

Get yourself a 1amp battery maintainer (smart charger) & leave it on all winter long. Also, run your mower out of gas before you store it.

 

[bt-99]

When in question take the battery to a local battery store like AutoZone and have it tested.

Most bad simply will not either take a charge or hold a charge. As long you don't connect it up backwards most batteries that complete dead will simply not charge but can damage some the el cheapo chargers.

And have save badly deleted batteries by using my 12V 60W solar panel.

If I take battery to auto zone to test it, will they have to charge it fully to test it, or will it tell right away if it's bad?

 

[StarTech]

Depends on the battery some can be tested right away and others will require a test charge. Even here my battery testers usually require a test charge and a waiting period of at least 15 minutes for the surface charge to dissipate to avoid false test results.

My tester will tell percent of charge, CCA capacity, and battery internal resistance and one tells good or bad results. Testers have come a long way from the old carbon pile testers basically just load tested the batteries.

 

[bt-99]

Depends on the battery some can be tested right away and others will require a test charge. Even here my battery testers usually require a test charge and a waiting period of at least 15 minutes for the surface charge to dissipate to avoid false test results.

My tester will tell percent of charge, CCA capacity, and battery internal resistance and one tells good or bad results. Testers have come a long way from the old carbon pile testers basically just load tested the batteries.

Ok thanks. Just one last question: if I take dead battery to autozone and they test it and say it's still good, I will have to take it home and put on a charger to fully charge right?

 

[TonyPrin]

bt-99, a few points to help you out beyond what you asked. First off, a fully charged 12V lead acid mower battery is actually 12.6 volts. Second, a 12V battery doesn't ever really go to zero. Interestingly, a mower battery needs 12 volts (or maybe slightly less) to start, depending on the mower and condition. At 10.5 volts the battery is considered unserviceable. My suggestion is to spend a little on a trickle charger and tester, then handle it yourself.

 

[bt-99]

bt-99, a few points to help you out beyond what you asked. First off, a fully charged 12V lead acid mower battery is actually 12.6 volts. Second, a 12V battery doesn't ever really go to zero. Interestingly, a mower battery needs 12 volts (or maybe slightly less) to start, depending on the mower and condition. At 10.5 volts the battery is considered unserviceable. My suggestion is to spend a little on a trickle charger and tester, then handle it yourself.

Ok thanks