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Rider Mower battery question
#1
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bt-99
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bt-99
Hi, im new to rider mowers and just have a few battery questions. #1: When you go to start your mower for the first time in the spring and it doesn't start, do you just go and buy a new battery or do you try to charge it first? #2: If you try to charge it, how do you know if battery will take a charge or not? #3: Is it necessary to charge mower battery beforing storing for winter and before starting in spring? I never do that. I just leave battery hooked up in mower during storage and hope for the best. How do you do it? Thanks
#2
TonyPrin
TonyPrin
If you live in an area (like I do) that gets temps in the 30s or below your mower's battery can be damaged by the cold. It's best to remove your battery and bring it into a basement or other place with moderate temps. I charge my battery for a few hours 3-4 times in winter and before I first use it with a trickle charger so it's ready to go. If you keep the battery in the mower, you can still charge it before first use but with the cables disconnected. Use an inexpensive battery tester or multimeter (what I use) to test your battery before just replacing it. Finally, my trickle charger shows me if the battery is too damaged to hold a charge.
#3
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bt-99
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bt-99
I keep my mower in garage where it is around 50 degrees and I keep battery in mower and just unplug negative cable when storing. That is all I mainly do. You said if I charge battery in mower to make sure I charge it with cables unhooked, just curious why they need to be unhooked. Does it hurt mower when charging when their hooked up? Also if I test a battery with a multimeter,will it give a false reading if it's completely dead? If I hook a battery that can't be revived to a charger, will it blow up or it just won't charge? ThanksIf you live in an area (like I do) that gets temps in the 30s or below your mower's battery can be damaged by the cold. It's best to remove your battery and bring it into a basement or other place with moderate temps. I charge my battery for a few hours 3-4 times in winter and before I first use it with a trickle charger so it's ready to go. If you keep the battery in the mower, you can still charge it before first use but with the cables disconnected. Use an inexpensive battery tester or multimeter (what I use) to test your battery before just replacing it. Finally, my trickle charger shows me if the battery is too damaged to hold a charge.
#4
StarTech
StarTech
When in question take the battery to a local battery store like AutoZone and have it tested.
Most bad simply will not either take a charge or hold a charge. As long you don't connect it up backwards most batteries that complete dead will simply not charge but can damage some the el cheapo chargers.
And have save badly deleted batteries by using my 12V 60W solar panel.
Most bad simply will not either take a charge or hold a charge. As long you don't connect it up backwards most batteries that complete dead will simply not charge but can damage some the el cheapo chargers.
And have save badly deleted batteries by using my 12V 60W solar panel.
#5
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bullet bob
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bullet bob
Get yourself a 1amp battery maintainer (smart charger) & leave it on all winter long. Also, run your mower out of gas before you store it.
#6
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bt-99
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bt-99
If I take battery to auto zone to test it, will they have to charge it fully to test it, or will it tell right away if it's bad?When in question take the battery to a local battery store like AutoZone and have it tested.
Most bad simply will not either take a charge or hold a charge. As long you don't connect it up backwards most batteries that complete dead will simply not charge but can damage some the el cheapo chargers.
And have save badly deleted batteries by using my 12V 60W solar panel.
#7
StarTech
StarTech
Depends on the battery some can be tested right away and others will require a test charge. Even here my battery testers usually require a test charge and a waiting period of at least 15 minutes for the surface charge to dissipate to avoid false test results.
My tester will tell percent of charge, CCA capacity, and battery internal resistance and one tells good or bad results. Testers have come a long way from the old carbon pile testers basically just load tested the batteries.
My tester will tell percent of charge, CCA capacity, and battery internal resistance and one tells good or bad results. Testers have come a long way from the old carbon pile testers basically just load tested the batteries.
#8
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bt-99
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bt-99
Ok thanks. Just one last question: if I take dead battery to autozone and they test it and say it's still good, I will have to take it home and put on a charger to fully charge right?Depends on the battery some can be tested right away and others will require a test charge. Even here my battery testers usually require a test charge and a waiting period of at least 15 minutes for the surface charge to dissipate to avoid false test results.
My tester will tell percent of charge, CCA capacity, and battery internal resistance and one tells good or bad results. Testers have come a long way from the old carbon pile testers basically just load tested the batteries.
#9
TonyPrin
TonyPrin
bt-99, a few points to help you out beyond what you asked. First off, a fully charged 12V lead acid mower battery is actually 12.6 volts. Second, a 12V battery doesn't ever really go to zero. Interestingly, a mower battery needs 12 volts (or maybe slightly less) to start, depending on the mower and condition. At 10.5 volts the battery is considered unserviceable. My suggestion is to spend a little on a trickle charger and tester, then handle it yourself.
#10
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bt-99
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bt-99
Ok thanksbt-99, a few points to help you out beyond what you asked. First off, a fully charged 12V lead acid mower battery is actually 12.6 volts. Second, a 12V battery doesn't ever really go to zero. Interestingly, a mower battery needs 12 volts (or maybe slightly less) to start, depending on the mower and condition. At 10.5 volts the battery is considered unserviceable. My suggestion is to spend a little on a trickle charger and tester, then handle it yourself.
#11
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SeniorCitizen
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SeniorCitizen
If it will crank and start the engine don't do anything but maybe clean the terminals and cable ends with sandpaper until at least 1 area shines as new metal . Your mower will take care of any decline in volts , it's made to do that . If it is one that takes water check that and if low add distilled water .Google may be your friend on the water subject .Ok thanks. Just one last question: if I take dead battery to autozone and they test it and say it's still good, I will have to take it home and put on a charger to fully charge right?
#12
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puppypaws
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puppypaws
I always crank all engines in winter months about every 6 weeks and let them run for around 30 minutes. This keeps the engine's internal parts lubricated while maintaining the battery voltage.
#13
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bt-99
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bt-99
It probably won't crank engine if I take it in to auto zone cause that would be the only reason I would take it to there is if it doesnt crank. Unless when they check it, that puts enough charge on it to where it will crank thenIf it will crank and start the engine don't do anything but maybe clean the terminals and cable ends with sandpaper until at least 1 area shines as new metal . Your mower will take care of any decline in volts , it's made to do that . If it is one that takes water check that and if low add distilled water .Google may be your friend on the water subject .
#14
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SeniorCitizen
Won;t crank and won't start are 2 completely different problems .
I said " if it will crank and start " continue
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SeniorCitizen
===========================================================It probably won't crank engine if I take it in to auto zone cause that would be the only reason I would take it to there is if it doesnt crank. Unless when they check it, that puts enough charge on it to where it will crank then
Won;t crank and won't start are 2 completely different problems .
I said " if it will crank and start " continue
#15
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bt-99
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bt-99
I meant
I meant if i take battery to auto zone, it is too weak to start mower===========================================================
Won;t crank and won't start are 2 completely different problems .
I said " if it will crank and start " continue
#16
StarTech
And even seen a couple that have flipped the charge ie positive becomes negative and negative become positive.
StarTech
Bull on that they near go to zero I personally had completely dead batteries that were rechargeable. Trying the ignition on one with an after fire solenoid and go back a month later.bt-99, a few points to help you out beyond what you asked. First off, a fully charged 12V lead acid mower battery is actually 12.6 volts. Second, a 12V battery doesn't ever really go to zero. Interestingly, a mower battery needs 12 volts (or maybe slightly less) to start, depending on the mower and condition. At 10.5 volts the battery is considered unserviceable. My suggestion is to spend a little on a trickle charger and tester, then handle it yourself.
And even seen a couple that have flipped the charge ie positive becomes negative and negative become positive.
#17
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GearHead36
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GearHead36
Get a battery tender for every lead-acid battery that you don't use over the Winter.
Also, mower batteries don't need to be disconnected for storage. Most cars are never totally "off". I.e. they always draw some current. If storing a car, then yes, disconnect the negative battery terminal. If storing a mower, don't bother. I've yet to see a mower that draws current when it's "off", and my current rider has EFI.
Also, mower batteries don't need to be disconnected for storage. Most cars are never totally "off". I.e. they always draw some current. If storing a car, then yes, disconnect the negative battery terminal. If storing a mower, don't bother. I've yet to see a mower that draws current when it's "off", and my current rider has EFI.
#18
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SeniorCitizen
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SeniorCitizen
2 C clamps make connecting and disconnecting this battery takes less than 30 seconds .
They also make good handles to transport a battery when standing vertical .
If you don't have the skill to do this please don't .
They also make good handles to transport a battery when standing vertical .
If you don't have the skill to do this please don't .
#19
Tiger Small Engine
When you are running the engine at wide open throttle you are charging the engine from 13.5 to 14.5 volts. Therefore you are literally trickle charging the battery for only 30 minutes. In reality the battery will often trickle charge for several hours. So starting your engine throughout the winter and letting it run 30 minutes is of no real benefit to the engine or the battery.
Tiger Small Engine
I always crank all engines in winter months about every 6 weeks and let them run for around 30 minutes. This keeps the engine's internal parts lubricated while maintaining the battery voltage.
When you are running the engine at wide open throttle you are charging the engine from 13.5 to 14.5 volts. Therefore you are literally trickle charging the battery for only 30 minutes. In reality the battery will often trickle charge for several hours. So starting your engine throughout the winter and letting it run 30 minutes is of no real benefit to the engine or the battery.
#20
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puppypaws
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puppypaws
When your battery is already charged, a trickle charge for 30 minutes warms and conditions the battery. I've been a farmer for 60 years and know that running an engine at timed intervals through the winter months to lubricate the internal moving parts is far better than allowing an engine to sit with no attention for several months.When you are running the engine at wide open throttle you are charging the engine from 13.5 to 14.5 volts. Therefore you are literally trickle charging the battery for only 30 minutes. In reality the battery will often trickle charge for several hours. So starting your engine throughout the winter and letting it run 30 minutes is of no real benefit to the engine or the battery.
#21
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coffeesnob
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coffeesnob
You are complicating it. Just disconnect the battery in winter. Put a charge on it when you start the season and change oil and go.
#22
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bt-99
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bt-99
So when you store in the fall, you just disconnect it and don't charge it for storage correct? And when you start the season, do you charge it only if mower wont start or do you automatically charge it no matter what? The only reason I ask is because sometimes I disconnect the battery in winter and come spring when I reconnect it, it will start without having to charge it.You are complicating it. Just disconnect the battery in winter. Put a charge on it when you start the season and change oil and go.
#23
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bullet bob
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bullet bob
In the fall, after the last mow, clean the underside of the deck, sharpen & balance the blades, change the oil & filter, blow out the debris in between the fins of your engine, pour a little stabil in the gas & run it for a short bit, and put your battery on a 1 amp battery maintainer. In the spring you should be ready to go.
#25
nycredneck
nycredneck
I’ll use mine in fall/winter to drag tarps full of leaves to the woods. I never disconnect the battery and if it doesn’t start in spring ( but it usually does) I charge it. Harbor Freight sells an inexpensive trickle maintainer I use on grandma’s car which rarely gets driven.
#26
old yooper
old yooper
I recently bought one of those Topdon digital battery testers, $40+ instead of $400 for a Snap-on. And it seems to be working vary well. I have no regrets about buying or using it. For me it is better than my DMM and heat coil load tester for testing what condition my batteries are in. Yes the Snap-on is better, but not 10 times better. If I need the results from a Snap-on I bring the battery to my local parts store and they do the test for free.
#27
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SeniorCitizen
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SeniorCitizen
Back in the good ole days battery testing was done without equipment .
Test -- If the head lights were bright the battery will crank it .
Test -- If the head lights were bright the battery will crank it .
#28
W
whaning
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whaning
When new mine held charge, after a couple years I always have to charge it in the spring, but for the most part , the batteries are only good for a 60 day warranty. so a battery per season is likely, mine normally last 3 years,Hi, im new to rider mowers and just have a few battery questions. #1: When you go to start your mower for the first time in the spring and it doesn't start, do you just go and buy a new battery or do you try to charge it first? #2: If you try to charge it, how do you know if battery will take a charge or not? #3: Is it necessary to charge mower battery beforing storing for winter and before starting in spring? I never do that. I just leave battery hooked up in mower during storage and hope for the best. How do you do it? Thanks
#29
G
Gord Baker
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Gord Baker
I suggest you remove both Terminal cables, clean them to bright metal and put it on a 2 amp 12v charge for 12 hours. A dead battery will freeze and be destroyed in the winter. When it starts, let it warm up to operating temp then drain oil, install new filter, check/replace air filter and using the Owners Manual Lubricate as required. Equalize air pressures in tires to spec. Underside of deck should have been fully cleaned in the Fall. Remove and sharpen or have the blades sharpened. No need for razor edge.Hi, im new to rider mowers and just have a few battery questions. #1: When you go to start your mower for the first time in the spring and it doesn't start, do you just go and buy a new battery or do you try to charge it first? #2: If you try to charge it, how do you know if battery will take a charge or not? #3: Is it necessary to charge mower battery beforing storing for winter and before starting in spring? I never do that. I just leave battery hooked up in mower during storage and hope for the best. How do you do it? Thanks
#30
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Freddie21
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Freddie21
If you're replacing the battery, measure it first. 12.6v and it's ready to go. Anything less, charge it. If going to set for a long period, put it on a trickle charger. Easy as that.
If you want it tested at an auto parts store.\, plan on leaving it for a while while they charge and test it. Removing it to a warmer area and keeping a charger on it during the unused months will greatly extend it life. I can easily get 5-6 years out of a Walmart battery doing this. Also, as suggested, turn off the gas supply to the engine then run the carb dry.
Easy as that.
If you want it tested at an auto parts store.\, plan on leaving it for a while while they charge and test it. Removing it to a warmer area and keeping a charger on it during the unused months will greatly extend it life. I can easily get 5-6 years out of a Walmart battery doing this. Also, as suggested, turn off the gas supply to the engine then run the carb dry.
Easy as that.
#31
S
SamB
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SamB
Don't forget,StarTech, that running a mower with a bad battery can and does melt the stator ring under the flywheel, due to the heavy demand put on the charging circuit., trying to charge a bad battery.When in question take the battery to a local battery store like AutoZone and have it tested.
Most bad simply will not either take a charge or hold a charge. As long you don't connect it up backwards most batteries that complete dead will simply not charge but can damage some the el cheapo chargers.
And have save badly deleted batteries by using my 12V 60W solar panel.
Attachments
#32
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d2wing
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d2wing
I would charge it overnight on a smart charger if it doesn't start. My mower lives in an unheated shed all winter. I use non-oxy gas ( no alcohol) and put stabile in it. I also leave it on a smart trickle charger all winter. No need to disconnect. It starts good every spring for a decade. I also have a car in cold storage with no power for a charger. I disconnect the positive lead and it always starts in the spring. I also have a small jumper pack if needed. My battery tester requires the battery to be charged before testing. Winters get to sub-zero temps here in Minnesota.
#33
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SeniorCitizen
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SeniorCitizen
i like to disconnect the negative lead first so there isn't as much chance of me screwing up .
#34
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Zedo
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Zedo
I would also buy a load tester , a battery can show 12-13 volts, which doesnt mean your battery is good, you need the cranking amps to turn over the equipment. A load tester will tell you right away if the battery is good or bad. Just my 2 cents. Harbor Freights and Amazon has them for 20 bucks and under.
#35
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SeniorCitizen
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SeniorCitizen
My 2 year old truck battery read 12.4 V but didn't have enough power to unlock the door with the key fob .
#36
C
Craiger
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Craiger
You ask many good questions and several folks have given fairly good answers. I've been working on all my cars and yard equipment for 60 years. I have a 20" rotary push mower that's well over 50 years old still going strong. I maintain my equipment and it serves me well. My Sears lawn tractor was purchased in 1982 and mows like new. I bought Oregon "Gator" high lift mulching blades for both mowers which do a great job, much better than original blades. I sharpen then annually with an angle grinder and a cone type balancer carefully adjusted to make sure blades are centered. Take them off and put them back on to get a repeat check as many times as you think necessary. Others have said blade balance is important and they are correct. Be fussy about this.
Battery chargers have come a long way from old fashioned "dumb" chargers. Left hooked up indefinitely they will overcharge a battery and "boil" the electrolyte away. When that happens the battery is toast. It doesn't matter if it's a "trickle charger" which are typically 1 amp or less or a much higher amp charger, never leave connected past full charge if you use a dumb charger. Do yourself and all of your batteries (I assume you have one or more cars/trucks) a favor and get yourself a smart charger. There are several really good brands. I've had a CTEK MXS 5.0 for years and it has brought several car and lawn tractor batteries back from "the dead". It has a desulfate and a recondition mode which can salvage a sulfated battery. It can't save all batteries but it's always worth a try. I have been using the recondition mode of my CTEK on my cars annually and two of those batteries are now ten years old where I live in a harsh winter climate in upstate NY. Most people around here only get 3 to 5 years from a car battery. They don't know enough to use a smart charger. I paid about $85 for mine and it's paid for itself over and over again. Both of those car batteries still take a charge properly and measure about 12.9 volts when fully charged. Good brands besides CTEK are Noco, Battery Tender, DeWalt, Schumacher. I'm sure there are others. You can pay anywhere from $30 to well over $100, that's up to you but I strongly encourage you to get a smart charger. Read and understand the manual to get the most from your charger.
You say you leave your lawn mower battery not on a charger over the winter. That's not a good idea. As one reply said at least charge it up several times during the winter. It doesn't matter if it's in the cold garage on in your basement, just keep it charged. One of the worst things you can do to a battery is let it discharge because that will sulfate the plates which diminish the battery charge and make it more difficult to accept a charge. A much cheaper option would be to use a Harbor Freight battery maintainer, they have them on sale periodically for well under ten bucks. Just connect it and leave it on all winter. A smart charger can do the same thing, it can be left on indefinitely without over charging. Never let your battery voltage drop below about 12.3 volts or it will sulfate.
I agree with one post who advised running your equipment out of gas before seasonal storage. If you don't want to bother with that, at a bare minimum use gas with stabilizer at the recommended dilution. I also use good name brand synthetic oil in all my yard equipment, it lubricates much better than regular oil. It's no more expensive because you don't need to change it as frequently.
Battery chargers have come a long way from old fashioned "dumb" chargers. Left hooked up indefinitely they will overcharge a battery and "boil" the electrolyte away. When that happens the battery is toast. It doesn't matter if it's a "trickle charger" which are typically 1 amp or less or a much higher amp charger, never leave connected past full charge if you use a dumb charger. Do yourself and all of your batteries (I assume you have one or more cars/trucks) a favor and get yourself a smart charger. There are several really good brands. I've had a CTEK MXS 5.0 for years and it has brought several car and lawn tractor batteries back from "the dead". It has a desulfate and a recondition mode which can salvage a sulfated battery. It can't save all batteries but it's always worth a try. I have been using the recondition mode of my CTEK on my cars annually and two of those batteries are now ten years old where I live in a harsh winter climate in upstate NY. Most people around here only get 3 to 5 years from a car battery. They don't know enough to use a smart charger. I paid about $85 for mine and it's paid for itself over and over again. Both of those car batteries still take a charge properly and measure about 12.9 volts when fully charged. Good brands besides CTEK are Noco, Battery Tender, DeWalt, Schumacher. I'm sure there are others. You can pay anywhere from $30 to well over $100, that's up to you but I strongly encourage you to get a smart charger. Read and understand the manual to get the most from your charger.
You say you leave your lawn mower battery not on a charger over the winter. That's not a good idea. As one reply said at least charge it up several times during the winter. It doesn't matter if it's in the cold garage on in your basement, just keep it charged. One of the worst things you can do to a battery is let it discharge because that will sulfate the plates which diminish the battery charge and make it more difficult to accept a charge. A much cheaper option would be to use a Harbor Freight battery maintainer, they have them on sale periodically for well under ten bucks. Just connect it and leave it on all winter. A smart charger can do the same thing, it can be left on indefinitely without over charging. Never let your battery voltage drop below about 12.3 volts or it will sulfate.
I agree with one post who advised running your equipment out of gas before seasonal storage. If you don't want to bother with that, at a bare minimum use gas with stabilizer at the recommended dilution. I also use good name brand synthetic oil in all my yard equipment, it lubricates much better than regular oil. It's no more expensive because you don't need to change it as frequently.
#37
A
Air4Dave
I have a
Lastly, you don't need to disconnect a battery to charge it, and no, a multi-meter will not give you a false reading. It is designed to just show you what the value is on an item. Also, a dead battery won't blow up if you hook a charger to it...it simply won't take a charge.
A
Air4Dave
Disconnecting the negative is ok, but not really necessary on a mower that doesn't have anything electronic on it! I've left my rider outside with the battery installed, no cables disconnected, and temps that get down in the lower teens. Although not ideal, by any stretch, my battery still survives but... I WILL start bringing it into my comparatively "warmer" shop for next winter. I said all that to show that these batteries are pretty tough, however, my battery is under 3 years old and that's important. Batteries are generally good for 3-4 years before needing replacement or they start to have charging problems.I keep my mower in garage where it is around 50 degrees and I keep battery in mower and just unplug negative cable when storing. That is all I mainly do. You said if I charge battery in mower to make sure I charge it with cables unhooked, just curious why they need to be unhooked. Does it hurt mower when charging when their hooked up? Also if I test a battery with a multimeter,will it give a false reading if it's completely dead? If I hook a battery that can't be revived to a charger, will it blow up or it just won't charge? Thanks
I have a
NOCO GENIUS2, 2A Smart Car Battery Charger, 6V and 12V Automotive Charger, Battery Maintainer, Trickle Charger, Float Charger and Desulfator for Motorcycle, ATV, Lithium and Deep Cycle Batteries - Amazon
that I will be using that is "smart" in that it will sense the battery condition, NOT charge it if there is a bad cell, and will charge at a variable rate based on what the battery needs. It works great! I would invest in this.Lastly, you don't need to disconnect a battery to charge it, and no, a multi-meter will not give you a false reading. It is designed to just show you what the value is on an item. Also, a dead battery won't blow up if you hook a charger to it...it simply won't take a charge.
#38
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SeniorCitizen
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SeniorCitizen
I see some have never heard of a battery exploding in someone's face . Please disconnect the negative first and reconnect it last .
#39
1
1madmouse
1
1madmouse
You only need 1 time having one blow up in your face to make a believer out of you. I was trying to jump a friends car , 1 spark and kaboom. 2 guys picked me up and ran me into the kitchen to rinse under water, lucky I didn't get blinded and only lost a set of clothes. I was 17 at the time, that was 54 years ago never did that again. Negative first and stand back.
#40
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SeniorCitizen
S
SeniorCitizen
That's what happened to a fellow at work when he as removing one from a metal box that cranked a Wisconsin engine . He didn't cover either post . They have to be taken to water .
#41
T
TobyU
T
TobyU
You should always at least try to charge it before replacing it or take it out and take it to one of the auto parts stores and they will test it and charge it and retest it for you.
If you do need one though I wouldn't buy one from there because you can usually get them cheaper at Walmart or other farm style stores.
You really don't need to charge it before you store it for the winter and you really don't need to disconnect it either because it doesn't make that much of a difference but if anything it would be a smart idea too at least put it on a charger for overnight or a couple of days before you're going to try to start it at the beginning of the season.
Some people leave them on a battery tender all winter long but I don't really think that's necessary either
If you do need one though I wouldn't buy one from there because you can usually get them cheaper at Walmart or other farm style stores.
You really don't need to charge it before you store it for the winter and you really don't need to disconnect it either because it doesn't make that much of a difference but if anything it would be a smart idea too at least put it on a charger for overnight or a couple of days before you're going to try to start it at the beginning of the season.
Some people leave them on a battery tender all winter long but I don't really think that's necessary either
#42
B
bt-99
B
bt-99
You don't use the trickle charger on mower, you just use that on your grandma's car?
I’ll use mine in fall/winter to drag tarps full of leaves to the woods. I never disconnect the battery and if it doesn’t start in spring ( but it usually does) I charge it. Harbor Freight sells an inexpensive trickle maintainer I use on grandma’s car which rarely gets driven.
#43
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bt-99
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bt-99
So when
So when you stored mower for the season, you just kept it hooked up and didn't charge it in the off season and hoped for the best in the spring and if it didn't start you charged it?When new mine held charge, after a couple years I always have to charge it in the spring, but for the most part , the batteries are only good for a 60 day warranty. so a battery per season is likely, mine normally last 3 years,
#44
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bt-99
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bt-99
I usually
I usually left battery hooked up when storing and come spring, it will start up without charging (at least for the first 3 or 4 years I owned the battery). If it does that than I don't need to charge it before I start it in the spring, right? I assume alternator on mower will charge it up?You should always at least try to charge it before replacing it or take it out and take it to one of the auto parts stores and they will test it and charge it and retest it for you.
If you do need one though I wouldn't buy one from there because you can usually get them cheaper at Walmart or other farm style stores.
You really don't need to charge it before you store it for the winter and you really don't need to disconnect it either because it doesn't make that much of a difference but if anything it would be a smart idea too at least put it on a charger for overnight or a couple of days before you're going to try to start it at the beginning of the season.
Some people leave them on a battery tender all winter long but I don't really think that's necessary either
#45
TonyPrin
TonyPrin
That really depends on where you live and how the mower is stored. I agree for those who live in moderate / warmer climates or store their mower in a heated space. But for anyone storing a mower at temps in the 30s moving the battery to a warmer space is usually recommended.You really don't need to charge it before you store it for the winter and you really don't need to disconnect it either because it doesn't make that much of a difference ...
#46
nycredneck
nycredneck
Trickle/ maintainer is the best winter (freezing) solution in my opinion. I don’t need it for my tractor. I’ll use my tractor during winter because once deck is off I can really make use of it to haul my small trailer and pickup fallen limbs.
#47
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TobyU
Like John Deere in there official service manual tell their techs to do some things at the start of a repair that is simply a waste of time and effort. Lol
It gets well below the 30s in my climate with each winter season almost always getting down into the single digits and sometimes a few degrees below zero but it always is in the low teens and often in the singles.
I have never taken a lawn mower battery inside to any heated building ever for winter storage and it doesn't seem to affect their lifespan etc.
As long as the battery is charged when you put it into storage which it would be if it started that mower the last time you used it and you mowed with it - it won't freeze at these temperatures.
Now, I have had full size car batteries that were at outside temperatures freeze and crack the entire case open due to being discharged because the electrolyte will freeze, expand, and damage the entire battery including the plastic case.
When I say split I don't mean just a small crack but more like an almost 1 inch wide crack around the entire case.
These were batteries that were shot or discharged anyways because the good one sitting right beside them are still fine.
I don't think it hurts to put a battery on a tinder or bring it inside but typically it's just not necessary.
T
TobyU
Well, manufacturers and some people recommend a lot of things that are unnecessary.That really depends on where you live and how the mower is stored. I agree for those who live in moderate / warmer climates or store their mower in a heated space. But for anyone storing a mower at temps in the 30s moving the battery to a warmer space is usually recommended.
Like John Deere in there official service manual tell their techs to do some things at the start of a repair that is simply a waste of time and effort. Lol
It gets well below the 30s in my climate with each winter season almost always getting down into the single digits and sometimes a few degrees below zero but it always is in the low teens and often in the singles.
I have never taken a lawn mower battery inside to any heated building ever for winter storage and it doesn't seem to affect their lifespan etc.
As long as the battery is charged when you put it into storage which it would be if it started that mower the last time you used it and you mowed with it - it won't freeze at these temperatures.
Now, I have had full size car batteries that were at outside temperatures freeze and crack the entire case open due to being discharged because the electrolyte will freeze, expand, and damage the entire battery including the plastic case.
When I say split I don't mean just a small crack but more like an almost 1 inch wide crack around the entire case.
These were batteries that were shot or discharged anyways because the good one sitting right beside them are still fine.
I don't think it hurts to put a battery on a tinder or bring it inside but typically it's just not necessary.
#48
T
TobyU
T
TobyU
Correct, if you go out in the spring and you're mower cranks at normal speed and starts up then the battery is close to fully charged anyways and obviously doing its job so you don't need to put it on any type of additional charger.I usually
I usually left battery hooked up when storing and come spring, it will start up without charging (at least for the first 3 or 4 years I owned the battery). If it does that than I don't need to charge it before I start it in the spring, right? I assume alternator on mower will charge it up?
#49
T
TobyU
Charging the battery or replace the battery are two common ones.
Unfortunately some people try another method which is not really a good one - jump starting it or using a booster pack.
The problem with this is then when the lower does start, it still has a very weak, low battery or even one that won't accept the charge like it should.
This is extremely bad on your charging system and as someone else has pointed out, it will fry your stator eventually.
The stator will actually be overheated and be very dark brown to black in color from the heat and it almost burning or melting.
About the only thing that causes this is when people jump off their mower and then mow their hold on with it repeatedly.
It doesn't usually happen in just one time but it can but they put off replacing the battery and basically every time they need to use it for half a season or a whole season plus and sometimes longer, this is their pattern.
Often, the only reason they stop doing this is once the statot goes they cannot mow their lawn because with no charge being put out, the mower will die in just a few minutes. Even faster if it has an electric PTO clutch.
T
TobyU
I think this is what most people do. If they come out in the spring and the mower doesn't start because of what seems to be a week or discharge battery, they choose some method of trying to get it to crank faster.So when
So when you stored mower for the season, you just kept it hooked up and didn't charge it in the off season and hoped for the best in the spring and if it didn't start you charged it?
Charging the battery or replace the battery are two common ones.
Unfortunately some people try another method which is not really a good one - jump starting it or using a booster pack.
The problem with this is then when the lower does start, it still has a very weak, low battery or even one that won't accept the charge like it should.
This is extremely bad on your charging system and as someone else has pointed out, it will fry your stator eventually.
The stator will actually be overheated and be very dark brown to black in color from the heat and it almost burning or melting.
About the only thing that causes this is when people jump off their mower and then mow their hold on with it repeatedly.
It doesn't usually happen in just one time but it can but they put off replacing the battery and basically every time they need to use it for half a season or a whole season plus and sometimes longer, this is their pattern.
Often, the only reason they stop doing this is once the statot goes they cannot mow their lawn because with no charge being put out, the mower will die in just a few minutes. Even faster if it has an electric PTO clutch.
#50
TonyPrin
TonyPrin
Of course, you can't tell if one approach is better than another if you only do it one way.It gets well below the 30s in my climate with each winter season almost always getting down into the single digits and sometimes a few degrees below zero but it always is in the low teens and often in the singles.
I have never taken a lawn mower battery inside to any heated building ever for winter storage and it doesn't seem to affect their lifespan etc.
#51
R
Ronni
R
Ronni
I have the same problem each year with my 20 year old Cub Cadet 42” riding mower. I use a jump starter to get it going after it sits for a while. Walmart sells one for $27.27.Hi, im new to rider mowers and just have a few battery questions. #1: When you go to start your mower for the first time in the spring and it doesn't start, do you just go and buy a new battery or do you try to charge it first? #2: If you try to charge it, how do you know if battery will take a charge or not? #3: Is it necessary to charge mower battery beforing storing for winter and before starting in spring? I never do that. I just leave battery hooked up in mower during storage and hope for the best. How do you do it? Thanks
#52
1
1madmouse
1
1madmouse
It really doesn't pay to put off getting a new battery, if it is older, just get a new one and be done with it. Not worth the extra hassle trying to just get by.
#53
T
toro12439
T
toro12439
Lots of people here talk about taking their batteries inside in the winter. This is foolish. Lead-acid batteries don't like heat. Leaving a charged lead-acid battery in the cold is the best way to treat it. Disconnect the positive lead - not negative like most people think - so you don't have a danger of sparks if you accidentally hit a ground. Nothing on the mower will be hot. Keep in mind though, if the battery isn't charged it can freeze and break the case, but if the top of the battery is clean it won't self discharge in the cold.
While you experts are saying "what does this newbie know about mowers?" I have 40+ years experience with inboard diesel engines on boats 30 miles from the Canadian border (-30*C occasionally) plus many years engineering battery systems in electric utility power stations.
While you experts are saying "what does this newbie know about mowers?" I have 40+ years experience with inboard diesel engines on boats 30 miles from the Canadian border (-30*C occasionally) plus many years engineering battery systems in electric utility power stations.
#54
TonyPrin
TonyPrin
My Cub Cadet manual says, "NOTE: Remove the battery if exposed to prolonged periods of sub-freezing temperatures. Store in a cool, dry location where temperatures are above freezing." Nothing personal, but I'll follow the manufacturer's manual.Lots of people here talk about taking their batteries inside in the winter. This is foolish. Lead-acid batteries don't like heat. Leaving a charged lead-acid battery in the cold is the best way to treat it. Disconnect the positive lead - not negative like most people think - so you don't have a danger of sparks if you accidentally hit a ground. Nothing on the mower will be hot. Keep in mind though, if the battery isn't charged it can freeze and break the case, but if the top of the battery is clean it won't self discharge in the cold.
While you experts are saying "what does this newbie know about mowers?" I have 40+ years experience with inboard diesel engines on boats 30 miles from the Canadian border (-30*C occasionally) plus many years engineering battery systems in electric utility power stations.
#55
Tiger Small Engine
Tiger Small Engine
There are lots of facts and nuances to batteries. Batteries are usually amazing for their value in starting an internal combustion engine, especially if trickle charged say once a month. I have spent hours in the past reading about batteries online. Often with batteries, it is like lots of information, and is word of mouth, as opposed to actual research from multiple credible sources.My Cub Cadet manual says, "NOTE: Remove the battery if exposed to prolonged periods of sub-freezing temperatures. Store in a cool, dry location where temperatures are above freezing." Nothing personal, but I'll follow the manufacturer's manual.
#56
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toro12439
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toro12439
By all means follow the owner's manual. HOWEVER, no manufacturer will write down anything that could be a liability. If a lead-acid battery is not fully charged or is connected to an on board circuit or is dirty it may get discharged and freeze which causes warranty and/or PR problems.
In-board boat batteries tend to be larger than mower batteries (4-d batteries weigh 100+ lbs) - which are a real problem taking out of a boat. Because of this we tend to leave them in the boat and usually the marina will not allow them to be plugged in while unattended. Here is a thread from a boating forum: https://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-forum/1255504-leaving-batteries-boat-winter.html
Apparently I am not the only one who leaves batteries out in cold temperatures.
In-board boat batteries tend to be larger than mower batteries (4-d batteries weigh 100+ lbs) - which are a real problem taking out of a boat. Because of this we tend to leave them in the boat and usually the marina will not allow them to be plugged in while unattended. Here is a thread from a boating forum: https://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-forum/1255504-leaving-batteries-boat-winter.html
Apparently I am not the only one who leaves batteries out in cold temperatures.
#57
B
bt-99
B
bt-99
Thanks TobyU for all your help. So basically if you can't get your mower to start in spring, your first go to would be to put battery on charger and not jump start it correct? Also I was planning to buy a charger for this purpose. Is it fine to charge battery at 10 amp setting? (At least I think thats what my manual says) it says 10 amps for an hour. ThanksI think this is what most people do. If they come out in the spring and the mower doesn't start because of what seems to be a week or discharge battery, they choose some method of trying to get it to crank faster.
Charging the battery or replace the battery are two common ones.
Unfortunately some people try another method which is not really a good one - jump starting it or using a booster pack.
The problem with this is then when the lower does start, it still has a very weak, low battery or even one that won't accept the charge like it should.
This is extremely bad on your charging system and as someone else has pointed out, it will fry your stator eventually.
The stator will actually be overheated and be very dark brown to black in color from the heat and it almost burning or melting.
About the only thing that causes this is when people jump off their mower and then mow their hold on with it repeatedly.
It doesn't usually happen in just one time but it can but they put off replacing the battery and basically every time they need to use it for half a season or a whole season plus and sometimes longer, this is their pattern.
Often, the only reason they stop doing this is once the statot goes they cannot mow their lawn because with no charge being put out, the mower will die in just a few minutes. Even faster if it has an electric PTO clutch.
#58
S
SamB
S
SamB
As has been stated before, TobyU is correct. If you have to jump your battery, you may very well be looking at buying a new battery AND a new stator.I think this is what most people do. If they come out in the spring and the mower doesn't start because of what seems to be a week or discharge battery, they choose some method of trying to get it to crank faster.
Charging the battery or replace the battery are two common ones.
Unfortunately some people try another method which is not really a good one - jump starting it or using a booster pack.
The problem with this is then when the lower does start, it still has a very weak, low battery or even one that won't accept the charge like it should.
This is extremely bad on your charging system and as someone else has pointed out, it will fry your stator eventually.
The stator will actually be overheated and be very dark brown to black in color from the heat and it almost burning or melting.
About the only thing that causes this is when people jump off their mower and then mow their hold on with it repeatedly.
It doesn't usually happen in just one time but it can but they put off replacing the battery and basically every time they need to use it for half a season or a whole season plus and sometimes longer, this is their pattern.
Often, the only reason they stop doing this is once the statot goes they cannot mow their lawn because with no charge being put out, the mower will die in just a few minutes. Even faster if it has an electric PTO clutch.