Walk behind Restoration HR215 SXA

[wfsway]

Sari it does not sound correct that the pump should be filled completely. It needs space to vent and expand when it get warm from operation. My top has a dip stick and can tell exactly how much is used level also the purge procedure is simple enough as the bench purge and then the running purge against wall or something. Do you understand these procedures. The left and right wheel ratchets should be forward engaging and reverse clicking.

 

[Saril]

Sari it does not sound correct that the pump should be filled completely. It needs space to vent and expand when it get warm from operation. My top has a dip stick and can tell exactly how much is used level also the purge procedure is simple enough as the bench purge and then the running purge against wall or something. Do you understand these procedures. The left and right wheel ratchets should be forward engaging and reverse clicking.

This is the picture that has me confused. Is the upper/lower level the thickness of the small fill hole or the reservoir that engulfs the fill hole. Also when I reinstall the seal the fluid in the reservoir is pushed out a bit. With the seal install, I have a small fluid bubble with no air. Sorry if this is confusing.

So I'm good with the reverse clicking, no dip stick on my unit; and, I thought I understood the bleed procedure. But clearly I'm doing something wrong.

I used the info from Robert's post, "Re: HRM215 Hydrostatic Transmission fluid change", which included great documentation.

Again, when tested on bench the shatfs had power. This is driving me crazy so I appreciate and thank you for your help.

 

[primerbulb120]

Robert - Sorry, forgot to ask:

On the HRB215HXA the ratcheting of the wheels should occur when moving forward or reverse? Mine clicks when moving in reverse - the opposite of my newer HRX217. Is this correct?
Again - thanks!

No, it's not correct! You have your drive gears put on backwards. The mower should click when rolled forward.

Flip the drive gears around and your problem is solved.

 

[Saril]

No, it's not correct! You have your drive gears put on backwards. The mower should click when rolled forward.

Flip the drive gears around and your problem is solved.

You are absolutely correct! Thanks for your post! When I got home I decided to take the wheel off and see if the shaft was moving - it was, even when I stopped the gear! I then realized the transmission was OK and the gears were most likely on backwards. I was actually nervous about switching the gears because I have read, from more than 1 source, it should click going backwards. Anyway, problem solved. Transmission works like it did 19 years ago. This old HRB215 now looks and runs as good as my newer HRX217.

Thanks to all that took the time help me through this! This forum is awesome!

Lesson learned - I made the mistake of not noting direction of click when I removed parts. Actually, I dont even think it clicked in any direction and that should have raised a flag.

 

[MWalton]

View attachment 29171
Forum, I am new to this site and wanted to share my experience and efforts to restore the titled subject. I am Quality Engineer by trade and explains why I am so detailed and meticulous about this restoration, and was great experience to learn about this fine equipment piece by piece. Presently I will just list the actions done without explanation.

* Blasted aluminum mower deck to bare metal, repaired 2" hole in deck by aluminum welding and primed with Zinc Chromate.
* Single stage topcoat Toyota dark metallic gray.
* Rebuilt recoil assembly, blasted and painted Candy Apple Red.
* Reworked rusted out areas of grass bag frame assembly and repainted with POR 15. New cloth bag.
* Rebuilt rotor driven disk and brake assembly and surfaced contact faces, new driven disk.
* Top end rebuild engine GXV140 ported and polished intake/exhaust.
* Re-seated valves with lapping compound.
* Drilled oil ports (1mm) larger.
* Added inline fuel filter, new fuel lines.
* Zinc anodized small parts as dissembled.
* Dissembled SX Transmission refilled w/Honda gear fluid and restored.
* Wheels reworked with new bearings. Rubber switched front to rear.
* Restored handle mechanism, cabling and bearing points.

I am sure I have left something out but you folks get the picture, what an experience. I have not put the new stickers caution etc. for the paint to fully cure. Thanks to comment, question.

View attachment 29168View attachment 29169View attachment 29170

I have a HRA 214 with holes in the deck. Is mine aluminum too? What makes the holes in it if it's aluminum, it's not rusting through.

 

[Darryl G]

That restoration looks great!

I have a HR215 I think. Master's series hydro with electric start purchased in the spring of 2005. Probably the biggest mistake I've ever made as far an equipment purchase. I paid $1,110.24 for it with the double blade adapter, bag and tax. I wanted the commercial unit but my local dealer didn't carry it. It's a great mower and all, but I just don't use it/don't need it/wasted my money on it really. It's probably got under 20 hours on it running the original blades and all. But at least I've got it if I ever need it, lol.

Note: Edited purchase date and price.

 

[wfsway]

Hello MWalton

The aluminum will pit sometimes enough to corrode all the way thru. You should be able to see if you have pitting from the underside, likely near the outlet chute. Grass and fertilizers have a lot of chemicals and enzymes that can attack aluminum. Occasionally the underside cleanings washing get the clippings out of the edges. Aluminum will oxidize. If the holes are not to large yet, you could skim coat the backside with JB Weld Epoxy.

 

[wfsway]

MWalton, I just looked some parts sites, it appears to me your mower may be carbon steel deck, just take magnet and test will know for sure.:smile:

 

[MowGrass]

WOW and double WOW. What you did is masterful. Thank you for sharing that here at this forum along with the pictures and a good level of detail. That is a special post!

 

[golfergordy]

Great restoration job, but why wasn't the original Honda color used, which I believe is Gently Silver Metallic (NH192M)?