Replacing Trans drive belt on Horse XP

[mechanic mark]

Bert - I wish it was that simple. Tries and there is almost zero clearance between the pulley and the 3 sided housing the pulley sits in. No way the belt is coming out that way.

Only way I see it coming out is to remove the fan/pulley and to do that, I have to remove the 3 sided lock around the nut that holds it all down. Any idea how I can remove that lock washer so the nut will come off?

They couldn't have made it too much harder!

Remove idler pulleys first so you will have slack in belt to rotate off engine pulley first.

 

[BlazNT]

I personally would bend them down enough to remove belt then bend back when replaced.

 

[fixitdad]

Good source of info for replacing belt especially diagram.
The question I have is this: I cannot find ANYWHERE, the transmission belt size and number.
If it makes any difference, my Horse is a 2012 hydrostatic model.
Any info would be helpful.
Thanks

 

[BlazNT]

model number?

 

[bertsmobile1]

Good source of info for replacing belt especially diagram.
The question I have is this: I cannot find ANYWHERE, the transmission belt size and number.
If it makes any difference, my Horse is a 2012 hydrostatic model.
Any info would be helpful.
Thanks

Fixitdad.
Please do not hyjack some one else's thread it makes things very confusing :confused2:
your mower will be somewhere in this list:shocked:
http://www.jackssmallengines.com/jacks-parts-lookup/manufacturer/toro/riding-products

As you can see there are a lot of mowers listed here. :shocked:
Now if you think we are going to sift through that entire list, pull out all the 2011, 2012 & 2013 models , go to the transmission diagram, find all the hydros , write down the belt size then go to a cross refference chart to find out what the belt size then you are in for a dissapointment. :thumbdown:
There is a reason why we are are always begging and pleading for owners to post their mower numbers and now you can see why.
If you had done the most cursory search of this site alone, forgetting about the rest of the web you would have noticed every second post the owner was asked for their model numbers.
This is not because we are some sort of NAZI organization compiling a massive data base of every one's possesions, you have plenty of government departments dong exactly that.
It is because in order to give you the correct information we need to be able to identify your exact mower.
With the serial number we can go to at least a dozen different sites to pull down the information you need or show you how & where to look ( teach a man to fish )

 

[bertsmobile1]

Bert - I wish it was that simple. Tries and there is almost zero clearance between the pulley and the 3 sided housing the pulley sits in. No way the belt is coming out that way.

Only way I see it coming out is to remove the fan/pulley and to do that, I have to remove the 3 sided lock around the nut that holds it all down. Any idea how I can remove that lock washer so the nut will come off?

They couldn't have made it too much harder!

Usually the belt will squeeze past the keeper.
If not you can access the top of the fan by removing the battery box, it just slips out.
If you have stood the mower up then you should have removed the battery so it is just a matter of slipping the box out.
I use a rattle gun to remove that nut and a tension wrench to replace it as the shaft tends to snap off if you overtighten the nut.
Occasionally I get a monster that gives me grief so it is a case of removing both clutch idlers, then the drive pulley by rolling the belt above the drive pulley then pulling the pulley off.
Then tap some wedges between the belt & keeper at the back to hold the input shaft still while I undo the nut.
However if that are rusted on that solid then the input shaft gets replaced as I have to guarantee my work & I would not trust that shaft.