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Rivets

Lawn Royalty
Joined
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You stated that it dropped just below 12VDC when cranking, but did the starter engage? Did the starter solenoid click? I’m not standing next to you to see what’s going on so you need to paint a better picture for us to help you. Before throwing any parts at it you need to do more testing. I would be going through this troubleshooting procedure to narrow down possible causes, if the starter does not engage without jumping the battery. Very first thing I would check is a good clean and tight connection between battery cable ground wire and frame. Then start troubleshooting.

Electrical problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things.
1. How well you understand basic electricity.
2. What tools you have and know how to use.
3. How well you follow directions.
4. You don't overlook or assume anything and verify everything.

Remember we cannot see what you are doing. You are our eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. The two basic tools we will ask you to use are a test light and a multi-meter. If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. Now let's solve this problem.

First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good. Check and make sure the chassis ground is clean and tight.
Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.
Third, check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring.
Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch).
Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again).
Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.

After you have gone through each of the above steps, let us know what happened when you did each step. At that point we will have great info to tell you how to proceed. Remember you are our eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible.

Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. Youtube also has some videos and as you know a picture is worth a thousand words.
 

benson145

Forum Newbie
Joined
Aug 29, 2023
Threads
1
Messages
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You stated that it dropped just below 12VDC when cranking, but did the starter engage? Did the starter solenoid click? I’m not standing next to you to see what’s going on so you need to paint a better picture for us to help you. Before throwing any parts at it you need to do more testing. I would be going through this troubleshooting procedure to narrow down possible causes, if the starter does not engage without jumping the battery. Very first thing I would check is a good clean and tight connection between battery cable ground wire and frame. Then start troubleshooting.

Electrical problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things.
1. How well you understand basic electricity.
2. What tools you have and know how to use.
3. How well you follow directions.
4. You don't overlook or assume anything and verify everything.

Remember we cannot see what you are doing. You are our eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. The two basic tools we will ask you to use are a test light and a multi-meter. If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. Now let's solve this problem.

First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good. Check andbgv make sure the chassis ground is clean and tight.
Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.
Third, check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring.
Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch).
Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again).
Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.

After you have gone through each of the above steps, let us know what happened when you did each step. At that point we will have great info to tell you how to proceed. Remember you are our eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible.

Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. Youtube also has some videos and as you know a picture is worth a thousand words.


Thanks for the detailed steps, when the key is turned there is a clicking sound. The starter motor never engages when key is turned.

Battery measure to 12 volts, connections are clean.

Voltage from battery to solenoid large terminal is 12 volts.

Due to the seat safety switch, can't test other terminals on solenoid while turning key as solenoid sits in front of battery and both are below the seat.

Tested the cable to the starter, it shows 12 volts when turning the key.

Was thinking of removing the starter motor to test but it has a cover over the top, can the starter be removed without taking off the cover?

Picture attached .
 

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Rivets

Lawn Royalty
Joined
Mar 11, 2012
Threads
55
Messages
14,769
Just take the shroud off. Say you can’t test a component with nt help you diagnose the problem, as all components need to be tested to see if they are good or bad. This is the reason most DIY guys don’t like electrical troubleshooting and pros charge more. You have to think outside the box to test some parts. Skipping a step ruins the troubleshooting process and gives inaccurate information. This is another reason DIY guys just make assumptions and throw parts at a problem, hoping to get lucky, but more often just waste $$$$$. If you make yourself a set of long jumper leads, using heavy gage wire and clamps, you can use them to get at the solenoid terminals. How you proceed is up to you, but until we get accurate info we are just throwing guesses as to how to solve your problem. We’ve found this is not the best way to provide help on this forum.
 

enigma-2

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 8, 2012
Threads
5
Messages
194
You really need to measuse the batterys CCA rating. A bad battery can still show near 12 vdc before starting, and then drop dramatically during starting.

Really sounds like your battery is near its end. Try pulling the caps off (usually under a large sticker on top, even maintenance free batterys have caps) and top off with distilled water.
 

benson145

Forum Newbie
Joined
Aug 29, 2023
Threads
1
Messages
7
While trying to see how to get a probe onto the unseen small terminal on the solenoid the boot must have been loose and popped off, after reseating both boots it fired right up. Hopefully not a fluke and will try again in coming days. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction.


PXL_20230906_005757024.jpg
 

enigma-2

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 8, 2012
Threads
5
Messages
194
If you're talking about the rubber boot covering terminal, has nothing to do with starting. But when you resat the boot, you may have accidentally tightened the terminal connection. I'd recommend you pull off the boot and check the connections for tightness and corrosion.
 
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