turbofiat124
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Mar 23, 2011
- Threads
- 83
- Messages
- 288
Here's my redneck fix of the day:
So in another post I was complaining that I don't get the life out of a lawn mower battery that most people get. Most likely due to my bumpy yard. And I was needing a battery for my Troy Bilt MTD lawnmower but because it is my backup mower hated to invest in a new battery.
A year ago I acquired several used 12 AH 12 volt batteries from work. One of the most common use for these batteries is for those kids cars and alarm systems. They normally sell for about $50 a piece brand new. They are also sealed so they can be mounted on their side. Or at least I think they can:laughing:
These batteries were used in our fire alarm system at work and had to be changed out every so many years whether they were good or not. So they were free for the picking. I think I got at least 10 of them. Some were duds, some were better than others.
Awhile back I decided to see if one of these batteries would start this engine. Well it didn't. It may have been one of the ones that wouldn't hold a charge very long. Or just didn't have enough balls to turn the starter over. These are listed as 12 AH not cold cranking amps so I have no idea on that last one.
I took some of these batteries that would not hold a charge for very long to the metal recycler.
The batteries I decided to use on my mower, I had recharged and after a month both still had 13.5 volts.
I ran them in parallel and connected two 10 AWG wires to the battery cables. They provide enough cold cranking amps to turn over a 17.5 B&S.
I cut a piece of 2X4 to provide as a spacer (which was just the right size) and ran some wood screws through the pre-drilled holes in the brackets so the 2X4 wouldn't slide backwards. I had to loosen the screws a bit so the brackets could be adjusted to slide down in the slots in the frame.
I connected some ring terminals to the ends of the wires, used the original bolts/nuts and wrapped them up with tape well (very well) to avoid any short circuits from touching the frame.
The plan is mount a couple of those bulkhead isolators where the Lowes sticker is to connect these wires together. However I don't really need a bulkhead connector. These are normally about $10 a piece + $5.00 shipping. So I'd have at least $25 in just these connectors.
I don't see why I couldn't get a couple of 3/4" NPT nylon pipe plugs from Lowes or Home Despot and drill a hole through the center, just a bolt and nut and use a conduit nut on the backside and just make my own for less than $5.00 a set.
I stopped and started the mower several times today and it never struggled to turn over.
In case you notice, the positive connector closest to the frame (the rear battery), I used a connector that is fully insulated. And the other positive connector I used some heat shrink tubing around it to avoid and short circuits.
So in another post I was complaining that I don't get the life out of a lawn mower battery that most people get. Most likely due to my bumpy yard. And I was needing a battery for my Troy Bilt MTD lawnmower but because it is my backup mower hated to invest in a new battery.
A year ago I acquired several used 12 AH 12 volt batteries from work. One of the most common use for these batteries is for those kids cars and alarm systems. They normally sell for about $50 a piece brand new. They are also sealed so they can be mounted on their side. Or at least I think they can:laughing:
These batteries were used in our fire alarm system at work and had to be changed out every so many years whether they were good or not. So they were free for the picking. I think I got at least 10 of them. Some were duds, some were better than others.
Awhile back I decided to see if one of these batteries would start this engine. Well it didn't. It may have been one of the ones that wouldn't hold a charge very long. Or just didn't have enough balls to turn the starter over. These are listed as 12 AH not cold cranking amps so I have no idea on that last one.
I took some of these batteries that would not hold a charge for very long to the metal recycler.
The batteries I decided to use on my mower, I had recharged and after a month both still had 13.5 volts.
I ran them in parallel and connected two 10 AWG wires to the battery cables. They provide enough cold cranking amps to turn over a 17.5 B&S.
I cut a piece of 2X4 to provide as a spacer (which was just the right size) and ran some wood screws through the pre-drilled holes in the brackets so the 2X4 wouldn't slide backwards. I had to loosen the screws a bit so the brackets could be adjusted to slide down in the slots in the frame.
I connected some ring terminals to the ends of the wires, used the original bolts/nuts and wrapped them up with tape well (very well) to avoid any short circuits from touching the frame.
The plan is mount a couple of those bulkhead isolators where the Lowes sticker is to connect these wires together. However I don't really need a bulkhead connector. These are normally about $10 a piece + $5.00 shipping. So I'd have at least $25 in just these connectors.
I don't see why I couldn't get a couple of 3/4" NPT nylon pipe plugs from Lowes or Home Despot and drill a hole through the center, just a bolt and nut and use a conduit nut on the backside and just make my own for less than $5.00 a set.
I stopped and started the mower several times today and it never struggled to turn over.
In case you notice, the positive connector closest to the frame (the rear battery), I used a connector that is fully insulated. And the other positive connector I used some heat shrink tubing around it to avoid and short circuits.
