Recoil Starter Squeal - Old style Briggs

M

M0t

Forum Newbie
This question is about the old style Briggs recoil starter with the balls under the seal, and the bull nose on the crank shaft that protrudes into the square post that goes into the rope spool. When the motor is running it squeals and tries to push the pull rope out.

I have fixed this problem many times but sometimes it recurs and my fixes seem to be just temporary. I disassemble then clean the crankshaft bullnose and the inside of the square part. I clean with wadded steel wool and spray with brake cleaner. Some recommend no lubricant so I have tried that. Other times I have tried some light dry lubricant like teflon garage door lubricant or that Dupont teflon dry film lubricant. In some cases the squeal keeps coming back.

Then I had the (I thought) bright idea that the spring tension may have something to do with it. So I tightened the spring one turn but that did not help.

My question then, is if someone has insight into this problem that I am missing? Thanks
 
On the top of the square piece there is a hole. You need to squirt some oil into it. There is a felt disc inside that holds oil. This is how the assy is lubed.
 
I agree with H.,

But the starter clutch needs to be taken apart and cleaned by popping off the large tin cap with the square drive in the middle. put a few drops of oil inside the base of the clutch and a light coat of oil on the crank stem. Put the center section back in and then the clutch balls. Pop the tin cap back on and spin the square portion by hand a few times to distribute the oil inside. If it has a screen with screws, make sure you put them back in place.
 
Auto Doc's said:
starter clutch needs to be taken apart and cleaned by popping off the large tin cap with the square drive in the middle. put a few drops of oil inside the base of the clutch and a light coat of oil on the crank stem.
Click to expand...
Think Briggs says NOT to oil the area where the balls reside. Clean and dry is the mission last I heard.

I've tried it all to fix these. Even a new one from Stens. Polished the crank, oil here and there. Some are just worn smooth out.
 
Briggs said years ago to clean the shaft and inside of the drive that goes over the shaft. clean the body of the clutch but add no oil. As it is used the oil will gum up and make the ball stick to the outside and not engage center section. They recommended a light synthetic oil for the shaft.
 
The starter ratchet clutch top tin cover has a seal on the inner ring to keep moisture and dirt out. Make sure it is not missing or badly dry cracked from age.
 
The balls and ratchet area should be dry. The shaft needs lube or it will do exactly what he is describing.
 

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What you mention is a common aggravating issue and if not fixed will SOON eventually ruin the recoil spring. Best to give it some attention when it gives you the very first squeal WARNING because it never gets better or fixes itself.
The main thing that I have done is polish the crankshaft stub shaft with emery cloth or sandpaper and thourghly clean the inside of the of the starter clutch that the stub goes into. The squeal is the crank stub having friction on the clutch hub inside body. (see post #7)
Sometimes the air cowling is not installed just right and a hint of such is the recoil rope does not recoil smartly. Loosen the air cowling bolts wiggle the air cowling while checking the rope retract and then start snugging down the 3 air cowling bolts while operating the recoil rope. But most generally it's the stub shaft area rusty/dirty or the clutch itself worn out. The upper body of the clutch has a small hole and a felt inside for just a very small amount of machine oil onto the felt. If you put too much oil or the wrong oil it will attract dirt and become gummy and back to problems again. I've seen them operate a very long time without ever using any oil at all when the stub and clutch is cleaned good.

Do not try to do the convert to the new style recoil that requires that the metal crankshaft stub be cut off and the new style WIMPY plastic recoil pawls installed. (One reason some convert to the plastic new style is not knowing any better and they are told the old style parts are NLA)
Once the crankshaft stub is cut off you are SOL. and it's wimpy plastic use only.
You can still find new old style clutch hubs like yours.
 
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Briggs 399671 is still available also from the following aftermarket vendors.

Stens 150-029
Prime Line 7-03451
Rotary 1324
Oregon 43-404

The only reason the stud is cut off is the lack of a replacement recoil assembly.
 
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