Realizing I should've started buying spare parts 3 or 4 years ago ! What's your favorite JD parts suppliers?

[winmod21]

Have realized, recently, that I should've started buying spare parts 3 or 4 years ago ! What's your favorite JD parts suppliers?

Ours is a: GT225 lawn tractor w/48" deck— w/Kohler CV15S-41571 15hp OHV engine w/Walbro carb # 75 3349 1205393

Needs:
Fuel Shutoff Solenoid
Mower deck spindles (two are cracked w/some chunks missing :-0 )
Tie rod ball joints
Hood (both upper & lower sections)

 

[StarTech]

For fuel solenoid suggest installing kit 25 757 25-S. It adds a heat shield to protect the solenoid from excessive heat. - Kohler

For tie rod ball joints since they are probably metric female threaded - JD This one you need to check which you have as there is also a SAE version. And boy are they proud of these.

• M12 Metric RH Female Threads - AM132814
• 5/8 SAE threads - AM133692

Hood parts - JD

Deck spindles depend which of the 7 different decks that could be on the rider. Probably better stick with JD on these too. But there are after market available for some the spindles just depends on which ones you need.

 

[winmod21]

For fuel solenoid suggest installing kit 25 757 25-S. It adds a heat shield to protect the solenoid from excessive heat. - Kohler

For tie rod ball joints since they are probably metric female threaded - JD This one you need to check which you have as there is also a SAE version. And boy are they proud of these.

• M12 Metric RH Female Threads - AM132814
• 5/8 SAE threads - AM133692

Hood parts - JD

Deck spindles depend which of the 7 different decks that could be on the rider. Probably better stick with JD on these too. But there are after market available for some the spindles just depends on which ones you need.

Wow! Great to know that info. Thank you very much, StarTech !;-) I've seen those 25 757 25-S kits at a few online parts sources, but they look quite a bit different than our ex solenoid, and they all have that black bumper/seal thing at the end of the vertical piston rod, which ours doesn't, (but perhaps ours deteriorated and fell off over the years?). JD sells them for $95., but I did find one place online that has the same kit for $68. Later today I was gonna try a very similar looking solenoid (that I unscrewed from a cheap $20 China-made carb that I inexplicably bought last summer via amaz) (see the 'Read This First' thread).

I'll look closer at the ball joints. When I called JD parts...they said that you can't replace just the ball joint ends—on the GT225's—but have to replace the whole tie rod - that comes with the ball joints. That is, if we're talkin' about the things I think we're talkin' about. I inquired about them, at JD parts, after I noticed that the rubber boots—on the threaded ball joint studs—were both ripped, still on, but ripped all the way through. So I applied the 'Handyman's Secret Weapon'...and duct taped them. =)

Without disassembling them, is there an easy way to figure-out which (metric or SAE) threads you have?

Re Spindles: They're still working; no unusual vibrations detected with PTO engaged; the cut is still beautiful; so I don't know how long I should let them go; maybe until they crack to the point of a noticeable vibration?

Wish I could post some pic's, but when I try to—from the pics that I've copied from the phone to the 'Pictures' folder in our Windows 10 notebook—the site keeps saying "The uploaded file is too large". ;~\
Thanks again so much, StarTech, for all your suggestions & info! Really appreciate it. ;-)

 

[StarTech]

That funny as JD parts show them as separate items.

 

[winmod21]

That funny as JD parts show them as separate items.
View attachment 57918
View attachment 57919

Maybe I'm not referring to the correct thing. What I was asking the JD parts guy about...was (what I called the tie-rod) that connects from wheel-to-wheel, at the inside tab part of the wheel that accepts the ball joint studs. It was in between that wheel tab - and the tie-rod ball joint end - that I noticed that both our black rubber boots (on what I'm calling the ball joint threaded studs) are ripped and loose. Perhaps I'm not referring to them by the correct names. :~\ Doesn't the 'drag link' go down/connect to the tie-rod - that goes from wheel-to-wheel. Apologies for my ignorance. I hope I'm talking about the right parts. Thanks very much again. ;-)

 

[StarTech]

Ah I see and they are right the tie rod is setup as one piece. Item 13 is what you were referring to. Many of my customers refer the drag link as tie rods and tie rods as drag links just depends which industry they are familiar with. Accept my apology for being a little off base as I was looking further up the steering line but those ball joints do go bad too.

 

[winmod21]

Ah I see and they are right the tie rod is setup as one piece. Item 13 is what you were referring to. Many of my customers refer the drag link as tie rods and tie rods as drag links just depends which industry they are familiar with. Accept my apology for being a little off base as I was looking further up the steering line but those ball joints do go bad too.
View attachment 57925

Hey, no need to apologize ;-) I just really appreciate all your help & suggestions !;-)
I feel kinda dumb for not knowing what I'm talking about. I should've looked closer at them, but connection is still solid; wheel control isn't loose; it was just that I noticed that both the black rubber boots have worn/ripped loose and half-hanging from the tie-rod/ball joint threaded studs that go thru the wheel tab (or whatever that part of the wheel is called). Thanks again for your suggestions and attached drawings !;-)

 

[bertsmobile1]

For JD where parts are cheap down here I replace the rod
For other brands I machine down the ends to take a replacable end because some want better than $ 100 ( Aus ) for $ 15 worth of bent rod with a stud welded to it .

 

[winmod21]

For JD where parts are cheap down here I replace the rod
For other brands I machine down the ends to take a replacable end because some want better than $ 100 ( Aus ) for $ 15 worth of bent rod with a stud welded to it .

Ahh yes, makes good sense. Nice to know you're down under! ;-) How's your winter going down there this year?
I have a friend -on a forum in the UK- that lives in Perth.
Up here in MI, USA, the JD dealer wants $65 for the wheel-to-wheel connecting tie-rod w/the all-in-one-piece ball joints.

 

[bertsmobile1]

Have not seen a real winter for the past 10 years
So warm that the cherries are not setting fruit
22 C today 26 C out of the wind .
June & July below average rain & on average 3 C above "normal" so setting up for drought in Summer
Workshop is on the outskirts of Sydney , House is in the Blue Mountains, no rain there either so adding a 45,000 Litre water tank because town water is likely to be restricted again this year.