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Have realized, recently, that I should've started buying spare parts 3 or 4 years ago ! What's your favorite JD parts suppliers?

Ours is a: GT225 lawn tractor w/48" deck— w/Kohler CV15S-41571 15hp OHV engine w/Walbro carb # 75 3349 1205393

Needs:
Fuel Shutoff Solenoid
Mower deck spindles (two are cracked w/some chunks missing :-0 )
Tie rod ball joints
Hood (both upper & lower sections)

For fuel solenoid suggest installing kit 25 757 25-S. It adds a heat shield to protect the solenoid from excessive heat. - Kohler

For tie rod ball joints since they are probably metric female threaded - JD This one you need to check which you have as there is also a SAE version. And boy are they proud of these.

• M12 Metric RH Female Threads - AM132814
• 5/8 SAE threads - AM133692

Hood parts - JD

Deck spindles depend which of the 7 different decks that could be on the rider. Probably better stick with JD on these too. But there are after market available for some the spindles just depends on which ones you need.

StarTech said:

For fuel solenoid suggest installing kit 25 757 25-S. It adds a heat shield to protect the solenoid from excessive heat. - Kohler

For tie rod ball joints since they are probably metric female threaded - JD This one you need to check which you have as there is also a SAE version. And boy are they proud of these.

• M12 Metric RH Female Threads - AM132814
• 5/8 SAE threads - AM133692

Hood parts - JD

Deck spindles depend which of the 7 different decks that could be on the rider. Probably better stick with JD on these too. But there are after market available for some the spindles just depends on which ones you need.

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Wow! Great to know that info. Thank you very much, StarTech !;-) I've seen those 25 757 25-S kits at a few online parts sources, but they look quite a bit different than our ex solenoid, and they all have that black bumper/seal thing at the end of the vertical piston rod, which ours doesn't, (but perhaps ours deteriorated and fell off over the years?). JD sells them for $95., but I did find one place online that has the same kit for $68. Later today I was gonna try a very similar looking solenoid (that I unscrewed from a cheap $20 China-made carb that I inexplicably bought last summer via amaz) (see the 'Read This First' thread).

I'll look closer at the ball joints. When I called JD parts...they said that you can't replace just the ball joint ends—on the GT225's—but have to replace the whole tie rod - that comes with the ball joints. That is, if we're talkin' about the things I think we're talkin' about. I inquired about them, at JD parts, after I noticed that the rubber boots—on the threaded ball joint studs—were both ripped, still on, but ripped all the way through. So I applied the 'Handyman's Secret Weapon'...and duct taped them. =)

Without disassembling them, is there an easy way to figure-out which (metric or SAE) threads you have?

Re Spindles: They're still working; no unusual vibrations detected with PTO engaged; the cut is still beautiful; so I don't know how long I should let them go; maybe until they crack to the point of a noticeable vibration?

Wish I could post some pic's, but when I try to—from the pics that I've copied from the phone to the 'Pictures' folder in our Windows 10 notebook—the site keeps saying "The uploaded file is too large". ;~\
Thanks again so much, StarTech, for all your suggestions & info! Really appreciate it. ;-)

That funny as JD parts show them as separate items.

StarTech said:

That funny as JD parts show them as separate items.
View attachment 57918
View attachment 57919

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Maybe I'm not referring to the correct thing. What I was asking the JD parts guy about...was (what I called the tie-rod) that connects from wheel-to-wheel, at the inside tab part of the wheel that accepts the ball joint studs. It was in between that wheel tab - and the tie-rod ball joint end - that I noticed that both our black rubber boots (on what I'm calling the ball joint threaded studs) are ripped and loose. Perhaps I'm not referring to them by the correct names. :~\ Doesn't the 'drag link' go down/connect to the tie-rod - that goes from wheel-to-wheel. Apologies for my ignorance. I hope I'm talking about the right parts. Thanks very much again. ;-)

Ah I see and they are right the tie rod is setup as one piece. Item 13 is what you were referring to. Many of my customers refer the drag link as tie rods and tie rods as drag links just depends which industry they are familiar with. Accept my apology for being a little off base as I was looking further up the steering line but those ball joints do go bad too.

StarTech said:

Ah I see and they are right the tie rod is setup as one piece. Item 13 is what you were referring to. Many of my customers refer the drag link as tie rods and tie rods as drag links just depends which industry they are familiar with. Accept my apology for being a little off base as I was looking further up the steering line but those ball joints do go bad too.
View attachment 57925

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Hey, no need to apologize ;-) I just really appreciate all your help & suggestions !;-)
I feel kinda dumb for not knowing what I'm talking about. I should've looked closer at them, but connection is still solid; wheel control isn't loose; it was just that I noticed that both the black rubber boots have worn/ripped loose and half-hanging from the tie-rod/ball joint threaded studs that go thru the wheel tab (or whatever that part of the wheel is called). Thanks again for your suggestions and attached drawings !;-)

For JD where parts are cheap down here I replace the rod
For other brands I machine down the ends to take a replacable end because some want better than $ 100 ( Aus ) for $ 15 worth of bent rod with a stud welded to it .

bertsmobile1 said:

For JD where parts are cheap down here I replace the rod
For other brands I machine down the ends to take a replacable end because some want better than $ 100 ( Aus ) for $ 15 worth of bent rod with a stud welded to it .

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Ahh yes, makes good sense. Nice to know you're down under! ;-) How's your winter going down there this year?
I have a friend -on a forum in the UK- that lives in Perth.
Up here in MI, USA, the JD dealer wants $65 for the wheel-to-wheel connecting tie-rod w/the all-in-one-piece ball joints.

Have not seen a real winter for the past 10 years
So warm that the cherries are not setting fruit
22 C today 26 C out of the wind .
June & July below average rain & on average 3 C above "normal" so setting up for drought in Summer
Workshop is on the outskirts of Sydney , House is in the Blue Mountains, no rain there either so adding a 45,000 Litre water tank because town water is likely to be restricted again this year.

Woo-wee! Gosh, that is a warm winter! Those are the same as our mid-summer temps in our Pacific Northwest !:-0
Hopefully you'll get more rain and lots of it, but not too much (unusually catastrophic floods seemingly happening all over the planet currently), so that your drought and fire season is minimal, or as minimal as can be hoped for.
Almost 12,000 gallons is a nice size water tank; under normal use, how long do you expect one fill-up to last?
We have a beautiful 4000 square mile mountain range in the Pacific Northwest by the name of Blue Mountains, where we often hunted & fished all year long each year. Let me know if you're interested in viewing any links.
Well gotta scoot on back outside. May everyones' week ahead be great and productive and enjoyable.

Sydney weather is about the same as LA.
Except for the fact the predominant air flow comes from Antartica so it is cold and very dry.
I was brought up on Kogerah Bay ( next one around from Botany Bay of Captain Cook fame )
We were dirt poor so ate the fish we caught almost every day and mostly the vegetables we grew including what we swapped with the neighbours.
I was getting that happening at home then when covid hit it has gone from strength to strength due to people being stuck at home & bored so now about 1/3 of the back yards only have a tiny patch of grass under the cloths lines the rest being turned into productive gardening .
Most Australian river are seasonal drains so the inland fishing is not particularly good unless you like smoked eel .

That's interesting. Have always wanted to visit Australia but alas it never quite worked out. =(
One of my daughters visited several times whilst she lived for a year on Papua New Guinea.
Hearing of your Kogerah Bay.... reminds of that very moving and haunting song I've always really liked, Moreton Bay, about the British penal colonies established in and around Moreton Bay, up your east coast by Brisbane, Queensland.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=AFzAcxHMVoo&list=RDAFzAcxHMVoo&start_radio=1
www.youtube.com/watch?v=09EDXj9XpSI
www.youtube.com/watch?v=bMF57bRJdTk

I remember reading that our American Revolution had something to do with the transportations being redirected there, as our Revolutionists attacked and took over all of the British prisons in the American colonies - where the Brit's had been transporting/sending their great numbers of prisoners.
Anyways, the images and sceneries of your east coast and all of Oz look so inviting & beautiful.

Back to current problems . . . . yesterday, after installing a cheap fuel shutoff solenoid —that I unscrewed from a cheap $20 carb that I inexplicably ordered last summer via amaz, and wiring the connector— our engine started right up and ran as great as it's ever run for over an hour— my wife called me a "Mechanic Hero!" ...and I have to say I was almost in agreement with her as I said, Thank you, Thank you, Thank you very much! ? ?
Then, after running & mowing perfectly for an hour and a half I shut it down to do some trimming.... but then couldn't get it restarted 20 mins later after repeated attempts. Had to push it in the garage. =(( My heroism ended abruptly after an hour and a half.

So I'm currently trying to decide whether to have our old (probably original) Walbro carb cleaned in a hypersonic bath, or to forget about it and go buy a new carb ?? Very depressing development ....after it started right up and ran perfectly for 1.5 hrs.
As I write this I really don't know what to do. =((

Another alarming thing... the engine oil dropped a full quart or more, apparently during the previous weekends' mowing; it was barely registering on the dipstick, which has never happened before. Typically, as long as we've owned the lawn tractor, the oil has never gone down more than 2/3 on the hashed area of dipstick.

Hate me now. I go to google and type in the part number. Who ever has the lowest price + shipping, I go for it no matter who it is. If I want quality parts, I just do the same but compare only the original equipment manufacture.