PYT-9000 with 26hp B&S professional series

[TheVirginian]

So in "Craft2" pic, i took it and edited it in paint and attached it. That's where the fuse is on the MTD type of the Craftsman PYT9000 series. did NOT look like a fuse holder at first and was way overtaped (even though it didn't protect end where fuse was, lol). It looked at first, a LOT, like that relay i showed under dash panel. Glad i found it, should have known it blew the fuse for a reason (even though i DIDN'T engage blades when it first started yesterday). Pretty sure electric clutch is shorted but about to do all the fun meter testing on it and the PTO knob to verify that theory.:confused2:

 

[bertsmobile1]

Try it again when the clutch is cold.
If it works fine when cold check the clutch air gap.
If it is worn & the gap is too big it draws too much power which can cause the fuse to blow after a while.

 

[TheVirginian]

I put Craftsman on back burner today because Scag wire harness and electric PTO clutch came today and i dove headfirst into it this afternoon. Getting ready to post progress and queries on that forum. I will check what you said now that it's cool again in the morning before my job and like you said if it works then i'll pursue the gap spacing. Already priced them today though in case i need to swap it like i'm having to on the Scag. That Scag one is HUGE and yet the Craftsman one (both from Xtreme Outdoor power equipment) is only $10 less than the Scag one was.

 

[TheVirginian]

LMAO, what a NOOB i am........LOL... From sitting on the driver's seat the BELT, LOOKS like it's taught and routed correctly but after trying the PTO knob while cold this morning i thought "hmmm, maybe the belt broke?" and yeah, it DID, lol. I'll put a belt on and see where we're at after that. It was a little "chewed" on edges from where spindle broke last year but was a brand new belt then and looked like it MIGHT hold for a while but that was obviously not the case. That first few seconds of smoking probably sealed it's deal. Anyway, yeah, chalk that one up to operator error and prognosis and i'll post again after rebelting the deck. :confused2:

 

[bertsmobile1]

Not sure of the exact deck but make sure the belt is around the pulley and under the brake pads and keepers.
Very easy & common to miss one and have the belt running over rather than under.
This will destroy a belt in under a minute running.
We have all done it.

 

[TheVirginian]

I had the belt right, it still has the diagram on the deck and i'd JUST put in all three brand new spindles/pulleys. The belt was "chewed" slightly (just roughed) on edges from where spindle broke last summer and between that and the PTO clutch IS very tight to turn by hand even without belt on, i think it couldn't take the tension/torque. I'm gonna go ahead and replace the PTO clutch in this also like i did the scag. I haven't ohm'd this one to make sure it's bad but the fact it's that tight to turn tells me it's nearly seized anyway. With BOTH hands, i could get a very TIGHT 1/4 turn out of the pulley at a time.

 

[bertsmobile1]

There are two different versions of PTO clutches.
One free wheels when the PTO is off & gets used on decks that have blade brakes fitted
The other locks when the PTO is off to act as a blade brake because there is none on the deck

 

[TheVirginian]

ok, in that vein of thought then, would the one with internal brake be able to spin at ALL by hand with it off? LIke i said, it would move about a 1/4 turn with BOTH hands, pretty tightly. I don't see any "brake" system for the blades/belt on the deck unless the tensioner/idler pulley takes that load? (doubt it)

 

[bertsmobile1]

If working properly no
In reality most will turn with a little difficulty and you will hear the brake dragging
Makes it a bitch to diagnose a buggered bearing and they are not the sort of item you want to replace by accident.