Pump will not start

[grumpyunk]

You might just try loosening the PS adjustment screw. They are mostly spring loaded switched with an adjuster to change the open/close pressure. If adjusted too high(by someone trying to get it to run) it would not shut off no matter the pressure. If you look at the PS I expect(do not know) that you will see a spring with a threaded shaft sticking out of it. The shaft is attached at the base, and it has a 'plate' that rides on the shaft and compresses the spring. If the spring is compressed too tight, the switch will not operate. Too loose and it will not turn on. Generally you tighten the screw (CW or CCW) to make the plate/washer/?? push down on the spring harder for higher pressure, loosen to make the spring push less.
All PS have a range. Yours is likely close enough. IMO. BTW, not a plumber either.
tom

 

[noquacks]

You might just try loosening the PS adjustment screw. They are mostly spring loaded switched with an adjuster to change the open/close pressure. If adjusted too high(by someone trying to get it to run) it would not shut off no matter the pressure. If you look at the PS I expect(do not know) that you will see a spring with a threaded shaft sticking out of it. The shaft is attached at the base, and it has a 'plate' that rides on the shaft and compresses the spring. If the spring is compressed too tight, the switch will not operate. Too loose and it will not turn on. Generally you tighten the screw (CW or CCW) to make the plate/washer/?? push down on the spring harder for higher pressure, loosen to make the spring push less.
All PS have a range. Yours is likely close enough. IMO. BTW, not a plumber either.
tom

Thanks, Tom. I peeked around a bit more before I started messing with the speings like you said, and i decided to take apart the 2 nipples on the to/from the narrow pressure black tube that feeds the PS. They both were clogged! Geez, no wonder. I ran a fine steel wire through both of them, and opened up.freed up the orifices. They were packed with gunk! Put it all together and now the pump stops! Success in steps!

Lastly, I found that the pump starts/stops within a second or 2, with a tiny leak in the pipes. I fixed the leaks, and now pump behaves a bit better. But shouldnt I have installed on top of this pump one of those low pressure air tanks, in case of a slow tiny leak, the pump wont kick on unless the pressure in the tank is depleted say, over a much longer time? Like this one:

Water Worker Amtrol 2 gal Pre-Charged Vertical Pressure Well Tank - Ace Hardware

The water worker 2 gal. Pressurized well tank offers a direct-fit replacement for the majority of installed well tank bases. The tank's deep-drawn steel construction offers durability and its polypropylene-lined steel shell supports the water weight to ensure water never sits in loose-fitting...

www.acehardware.com

The old pump I removed (30 years old or so) had one. After this, I am completely done! Thanks.

 

[Hammermechanicman]

Yes you need a tank. Size depending on your application. Modern tanks have a bladder in them to separate the water and air. In older nonbladder tanks the air would slowly be absorbed and air would need to be added to the tank every couple of months. Most systems are 20/40 or 30/50. If you get a tank you should get fairly detailed instructions how to set the bladder pressure of the tank for your system and you will need to install a pressure gauge to know what is happening . The hardest thing for a pump to do is start up under a head of pressure. You want it to have a few startups as possible. That means proper size tank, the bigger the better, setup properly and pressure switch setup properly. A fast cycling pump is not a good thing.

 

[grumpyunk]

Yup, save $$ and save the pump by adding a pressure tank. Longer run time on each cycle with ~no loss of head pressure cuts the surge electrical current flow number and lets the pump do a run cycle before shutting down. As stated, the bigger the better with more noticeable effect if your water use is high, such a multiple users vs a small household.
And, read the directions. The tank can be 'teed' in just about anywhere in the line and work fine.
tom

 

[noquacks]

Wow, too much- I unscrewed the old tank from the old pump, tank is still good, almost new. Added a little pressure to 20 lbs (stated on sticker), screwed it onto the top of the pump thread, turned on the power, and pump runs, then stops, and stays off! Tested pump by turning on the hose faucet 30 feet away, pump runs great, no other problems!

You guys are great! Thanks.

 

[grumpyunk]

When you turn on the hose faucet, the pump should not run until the pressure stored in the pressure tank is exhausted. The compressed air in the tank will force water into the system to feed the hose. As I sort of understand, you want the pump to kick on just before the air pressure reaches your setting. Thus as the air pressure is used up, the pump should kick in just before. The pump will then run, even with the hose faucet closed, and compress the air until hi shutoff is reached.
tom