The bearings went out on my PTO clutch while mowing last week. I've ordered a new one. This is probably a dumb question but is it normal for the engine to not turn over when the clutch bearings are seized up? I'm not much of a mechanic but thanks to the great advice from members of this forum my machine has never been in the shop (knock on wood) and I bought it new 14 years ago.
PTO Clutch failure on 722D2
- Thread starter bozoc
- Start date
bertsmobile1
Lawn Royalty
Yes,,, and No.
The clutch is anchored to the body of the mower and keyed onto the PTO shaft
So depending upon what is locked up then it can lock the engine.
Easiest way to check is to remove the clutch, as you will have to do that in any case and try to turn the engine over by hand .
Bearings on most are not replaceable do when it is off, pull it apart and see how it works.
The magnets for the brake are quite strong and handy around the workshop.
The clutch is anchored to the body of the mower and keyed onto the PTO shaft
So depending upon what is locked up then it can lock the engine.
Easiest way to check is to remove the clutch, as you will have to do that in any case and try to turn the engine over by hand .
Bearings on most are not replaceable do when it is off, pull it apart and see how it works.
The magnets for the brake are quite strong and handy around the workshop.
Thanks for the reply. If I'm not mistaken you are the good guy who helped me with my broken pto coupler that was "frozen" to the shaft. I ordered a new clutch as the bearings around the center bolt are visible and there are metal shavings also visible. I'll take the bad clutch off while I'm waiting for the new one and see if I can turn the engine over by hand. Thanks for the tip about the magnets.
bertsmobile1
Lawn Royalty
The really annoying bit is I am yet to find a use for the electromagnet.It has to be able to be repurposed for something
Unless it is a long difficult job, I don't remember people who post here.
Like every one else I am here to learn .
Being an independent reapir workshop I usually don't see new gear till it is well out of warranty .
Addto that we often get surplus USA stuff down here for 3 or 4 years after they have stopped selling them in the USA.
Thus by the time I get a problem child to fix, there have been 30 of them already done through the forum so I can look like I know what I am doing and offer reasonable quotes.
Unless it is a long difficult job, I don't remember people who post here.
Like every one else I am here to learn .
Being an independent reapir workshop I usually don't see new gear till it is well out of warranty .
Addto that we often get surplus USA stuff down here for 3 or 4 years after they have stopped selling them in the USA.
Thus by the time I get a problem child to fix, there have been 30 of them already done through the forum so I can look like I know what I am doing and offer reasonable quotes.
Its Me
Well-Known Member
there are two bearings on them the top one runs off the motor while the clutch is not in use, the lower bearing is where the clutch when engaged turns, so if the clutch is not engaged it should turn if you take belt off and try to turn it, it should move, the top one is most of the problem, if you leave it in the weather or wash the mower afterwards, kick the clutch on to remove the water from the top bearing, I have replaced the bearings, have to have a press and shims that I make on the lathe to space out so the pulley is not bent, try the belt off and see if the pulley will spend.
Thanks for the reply. I did take the belt off and the pulley does spin. The bearings are shot and I'm still trying to get the clutch off. I think it got so hot the stub shaft expanded and did not return to normal size. I am going to replace the shaft as well as the clutch and hopefully be done with it. Thanks for the valuable info. It is much appreciated.
Loyd
bertsmobile1
Lawn Royalty
No it is just rust
When you replace it some copper or nickle anti sieze on the shaft is a very good idea.
They can be a right royal bugger to get off then when they do, they come off with a rush & smack you in the head.
Unlike the pulley you can use a gear puller on the clutch, if you have one big enough
I use some angle iron and a pair of jacks between the floor of the engine bay and the PTO
Tighten till it does not move then put an allan headed bolt into the crankshaft and give it a wack.
I use an air hammer.
Just to be clear here, I hoist the front up vertical with a crane so the pulley can not come flying off & hit me.
When you are working underneath it is a lot harder to do safely
When you replace it some copper or nickle anti sieze on the shaft is a very good idea.
They can be a right royal bugger to get off then when they do, they come off with a rush & smack you in the head.
Unlike the pulley you can use a gear puller on the clutch, if you have one big enough
I use some angle iron and a pair of jacks between the floor of the engine bay and the PTO
Tighten till it does not move then put an allan headed bolt into the crankshaft and give it a wack.
I use an air hammer.
Just to be clear here, I hoist the front up vertical with a crane so the pulley can not come flying off & hit me.
When you are working underneath it is a lot harder to do safely
I will definitely use the anti-seize Bert. Thanks for the tip. If I get all of this done without losing an eye or a limb I will be happy!???
I think Bertsmobile is correct. Rust. Factory puts these mowers together DRY. That is why these parts rust in place, whether you store unit indoors or outdoors makes no difference. If PTO belts off, and engine still locked up, may be PTO shaft pillow block bearing assembly frozen. I have front mount deck on my Hopper, so that may not apply in your case. To get clucth off of engine stub shaft, use pneumatic innpact hammer, chisel bit, seat in pulley groove, tilt impact hammer gun opposite direction you want pulley and unit to go and see if the vibration won't just walk the thing off. Worth a try, being as you can get a pneumatic impact hammer at Harbor Freight for under $20, and they usually come with a chisel bit. Look on You Tube for video. On my mower, no way to attach gear puller, and with the stamped steel pulley, would do no good anyway. Not familiar with your unit and it's layout. Acetylene rig is another option, just cut it off in pieces, and try to not damage stub shaft. (I dread the day mine goes bad because it is original unit I thimk, and is sure to be rusted in place) Hope this helps tho.
I think Bertsmobile is correct. Rust. Factory puts these mowers together DRY. That is why these parts rust in place, whether you store unit indoors or outdoors makes no difference. If PTO belts off, and engine still locked up, may be PTO shaft pillow block bearing assembly frozen. I have front mount deck on my Hopper, so that may not apply in your case. To get clucth off of engine stub shaft, use pneumatic innpact hammer, chisel bit, seat in pulley groove, tilt impact hammer gun opposite direction you want pulley and unit to go and see if the vibration won't just walk the thing off. Worth a try, being as you can get a pneumatic impact hammer at Harbor Freight for under $20, and they usually come with a chisel bit. Look on You Tube for video. On my mower, no way to attach gear puller, and with the stamped steel pulley, would do no good anyway. Not familiar with your unit and it's layout. Acetylene rig is another option, just cut it off in pieces, and try to not damage stub shaft. (I dread the day mine goes bad because it is original unit I thimk, and is sure to be rusted in place) Hope this helps tho.