I have a DLT2000 with the following issue. The blades are engaged even when the PTo switch is not in the on position! I've checked the switch with a multimeter according to the circuit diagram in the manual and it seems to be open and closed correctly in the on as well as off positions.
I'm thinking of checking the voltage going to the clutch and then thinking about a way to figure out if the clutch itself is bad. As far as I can tell, the drive belts are the correct sizes ... I don't know if perhaps the one on the clutch pulley is perhaps too tight?
Any thoughts you have on what to try or what the problem could be are welcome!
With an electric clutch, unplug the clutch, there should a plug within 8” of the clutch itself. Test the unit. If the blades are still engaged, my guess is the clutch is bad. If the blades are disengaged, bad PTO switch. Let us know what you find.
With an electric clutch, unplug the clutch, there should a plug within 8” of the clutch itself. Test the unit. If the blades are still engaged, my guess is the clutch is bad. If the blades are disengaged, bad PTO switch. Let us know what you find.
Ok, it took a while to get the plug undone (it was all gummed up with dirt and I spent an afternoon on it being ginger so as not to break it. Finally figured out to use some dielectric grease). And indeed, the blades still engage even with the plug disconnected. So it seems like the clutch is somehow stuck or seized. I guess the next step is to take the deck down and try to see what's going on....
#6
StarTech
Most likely the lower PTO bearing is seized then and most PTO bearings are not replaceable but some are just depends what the PTO clutch OEM did..
After doing a bit of reading it seems like the deck doesn't need to be taken down, just the belt removed off the clutch. It sounds like I have to be careful about some kind of issue with the flywheel turning while taking the clutch off. Not sure what that is all about - my first time doing a repair like this ... any pointers are appreciated. Thanks for all your help so far!
The grease dries out then the beating siezes
On some the bearing can be replaced
on others you can pop the rubber seals & add some grease from time to time .
Most however are not serviceable in any way shape of form they just get replaced.
There is a lot more to buying a mower than most think.
The cheaper it is the more it will cost in the long run.
The grease dries out then the beating siezes
On some the bearing can be replaced
on others you can pop the rubber seals & add some grease from time to time .
Most however are not serviceable in any way shape of form they just get replaced.
There is a lot more to buying a mower than most think.
The cheaper it is the more it will cost in the long run.
So true about many appliances these days. I'm resolved to fix things as long as I can and not just toss. I found my mower on the side of the road for nearly nothing - the owner couldn't get it running.
Down here the mower market is strictly franchised and few greedy morons have most of the exclusive franchise rights.
Thus some deck idlers go for near $ 200 (Aus)
Thus I have on occasions drilled out the welds / rivets then replaced the bearing with the highest quality one I can find then joined the 2 halves back together .
Not much cheaper for the customer at $ 30 for the bearing and $ 90 to $ 120 for my labour but I have a thing about people trying to make too much money out of a too small turnover by charging outrageous prices.
Building a spot welder from an old microwave transformer to do these much quicker is on the 'round tuit " list so I have a big box of good pulleys with buggered bearings cluttering up the workshop .
i plan to put in the new clutch today - do you all have any tips to be careful about. From the instructions that came with the clutch it sounds like I have to be careful about different tolerances, like its not just a question of putting it in where the old clutch was and retightening the bolt! Just want to be sure I don't miss anything...
Got the clutch back in and deck on. Thanks everyone for your help. The mower seems to be working fine for now. Hopefully I've addressed the root of the problem!
#15
GentlemanFahmah
A couple of thoughts on this. The blue in the ball bearings speaks volumes about the heat that caused it all to seize up. The rust on the center suggests that this could have been washed down after use and then water would lie there and go to work on corrosion. For longevity on older model Craftsman tractors, I've found that inside storage, using a leaf blower to clean the deck top, and annual or more frequent inspection of the clutch and all mechanisms that get dust and grass debris on the deck top are kept clean and free. it's good that you got to the problem and that is fixable. Good job of staying in it. My oldest Craftsman look like it was a practice dummy for the high school welding class I've slapped so many patches and repairs on it, but it still cuts beautifully. The latest problem for me was failed ACR on the Briggs motor. That was a bit deeper repair than I was looking for but I got it done and fortunately most of the debris I was able to remove and now it's back up and running. My oldest craftsman (I have two) is my trim mower for fence lines at my farm and it takes a beating.
#16
StarTech
All new electric PTO clutches should be installed using antiseize on the crankshaft. They also should be only torque the PTO clutch OEM specs. Too loose they come off and too tight damages to bearings.
