possible head gasket issue?
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bertsmobile1
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Smooth bore says it all
Don't see that very often
Usual suspect is bad filtering of air and most common on FR kawasaki engines because the elbow just does not seal properly unless you are very careful when you replace the air filter.
Bagging on ZTR's accelerates the problem because of all of the very fine dust that gets passed through the bags ends up being sucked into the engine.
Fuel thinned oil is the other big culprit .
Don't see that very often
Usual suspect is bad filtering of air and most common on FR kawasaki engines because the elbow just does not seal properly unless you are very careful when you replace the air filter.
Bagging on ZTR's accelerates the problem because of all of the very fine dust that gets passed through the bags ends up being sucked into the engine.
Fuel thinned oil is the other big culprit .
@bertsmobile1 - just to confirm, you are suggesting the air filter housing is letting some dirt get thru which is causing this? just wondering what the best resolution is for this. since i opened up the area i cleaned the head area and will install a new gasket
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bertsmobile1
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Yes
I often find dust stuck to the fumey residue inside the air filter housing where the breather enters
Sure sign that the air filter is leaking somewhere
Plastic manifolds warp usually from being done up too tight and almost no one replaces the gaskets or O rings when they service the carbs.
My parts supplier confirms this case they always ask what am I doing with them ? Having them with lunch ? as I use 3 to 4 times as many as any other customer .
I often find dust stuck to the fumey residue inside the air filter housing where the breather enters
Sure sign that the air filter is leaking somewhere
Plastic manifolds warp usually from being done up too tight and almost no one replaces the gaskets or O rings when they service the carbs.
My parts supplier confirms this case they always ask what am I doing with them ? Having them with lunch ? as I use 3 to 4 times as many as any other customer .
@bertsmobile1 - i'll go ahead and change both the O ring and carb gasket. i assume you are referring to the blue and red arrows?
bertsmobile1
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Yes
And don't overtighten the mounting studs
Finger tight = 1/4 turn is generally enough to compress the rubber O rign
I use 1/4" thumb drive to prevent me committing the same crime.
Their is another O ring between the manifold & the head which is also prone to get hard & leak.
At $ 1 a hit false economy not to replace all of them.
And don't overtighten the mounting studs
Finger tight = 1/4 turn is generally enough to compress the rubber O rign
I use 1/4" thumb drive to prevent me committing the same crime.
Their is another O ring between the manifold & the head which is also prone to get hard & leak.
At $ 1 a hit false economy not to replace all of them.
update - i ran the tractor for 1 hour without issues on mostly flat ground.
but unfortunately the issue re-occured (oil burning), but noticed it occurs near the same area where it occurred before on my lawn. this area is on a slight decline where the engine is pointed downwards. could it be possible there is too much oil in the engine? another idea that i thought of was maybe the valve cover leaks a small amount of oil due to the decline and that drops on the hot muffler?
but unfortunately the issue re-occured (oil burning), but noticed it occurs near the same area where it occurred before on my lawn. this area is on a slight decline where the engine is pointed downwards. could it be possible there is too much oil in the engine? another idea that i thought of was maybe the valve cover leaks a small amount of oil due to the decline and that drops on the hot muffler?
bertsmobile1
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The sump on these engines is about the same size as a dinner plate and about 1.5" deep
When the engine is tilted forward the oil level gets to be higher than the bottom of the cylinder
When an engine is new it can handle the extra oil .
However the older they get the less capacity they have to tollerate the piston sloshing around in a cylinder full of oil .
When the engine is tilted forward the oil level gets to be higher than the bottom of the cylinder
When an engine is new it can handle the extra oil .
However the older they get the less capacity they have to tollerate the piston sloshing around in a cylinder full of oil .
makes sense @bertsmobile1. any possible fix for this or maybe time to retire the machine?
bertsmobile1
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A couple of options
1) rering, not too expensive
2) ignore it till you get request for mosquito repelling
3) go one grade heavier oil
4) try synthetic oil
All depends upon what the rest of the mower is like.
Not a good time to buy new gear right now as most factories are Covid affected so out puts are down.
1) rering, not too expensive
2) ignore it till you get request for mosquito repelling
3) go one grade heavier oil
4) try synthetic oil
All depends upon what the rest of the mower is like.
Not a good time to buy new gear right now as most factories are Covid affected so out puts are down.