POOPS AND POPS AND DIES

[Rivets]

If you can keep it going by disengaging the blades, I would say that it is not the coil. I suspect a fuel problem. If it came into the shop with those symptoms I would start by removing the carb, give it a good cleaning and replace the float needle and seat. I know you said you cleaned it already, but you have a lean condition and if the float needle or seat has swelled it is lowering the fuel level in the carb. Another possibility is a bad pulse line on the fuel pump, if you have one. It may have a crack the gets worse and leaks when it warms up.

 

[BONDOBILL]

Coils bad.

Motor seems to run decent, then it starts popping slightly, but when I put a Load on the engine ( like engaging the Mower deck) it starts popping/ sputtering harder. then smooths out and runs OK until I hit a patch of Grass about 4 or 5 inches tall then it starts sputtering until clear of that grass. If I continue into that deep grass engine will sputter and die. I Put another carb from a good running engine on mine and it performs exactly the same way. Cleaned and regapped Spark plug, Clean Air Filter, New Inline fuel filter, Fuel Bowl Clean, No Fuel restrictions. Governor tries to keep engine RPM up but still Sputters and dies under a Load. Disengage Mower deck still sputters somewhat but stays running. Why would engaging Mower deck effect engine performance unless it's just the Load on the engine.?? Bad Coil...? Engine timing..? I feel pretty confident it's Not a Fuel or Carburetor problem. HELP...!!!!!! I'm running out of excuses..! This Mower has been Well cared for by Me for 14 years, absolutely No abuse.

 

[BONDOBILL]

If you can keep it going by disengaging the blades, I would say that it is not the coil. I suspect a fuel problem. If it came into the shop with those symptoms I would start by removing the carb, give it a good cleaning and replace the float needle and seat. I know you said you cleaned it already, but you have a lean condition and if the float needle or seat has swelled it is lowering the fuel level in the carb. Another possibility is a bad pulse line on the fuel pump, if you have one. It may have a crack the gets worse and leaks when it warms up.

I'm Not the Superman of Mechanics although I'm pretty darn Good. I Never NIX out any ones opinion, you never know where your Next Brilliant Fix comes from. This Mower has a gravity feed, No Fuel Pump and plenty of fuel flowing.

 

[Rivets]

From what you say my next step would be either a partially sheared flywheel key, does not have to be much, and then look at the valve clearances.

 

[BONDOBILL]

I'm Not the Superman of Mechanics although I'm pretty darn Good. I Never NIX out any ones opinion, you never know where your Next Brilliant Fix comes from. This Mower has a gravity feed, No Fuel Pump and plenty of fuel flowing.

Sears Tech says by my description it is definitely Not a Bad Coil, but rather a Fuel problem.? General consensus here on the Forum seems Split between Bad Coil or Fuel Problem. I chose the easier to repair,( although Costly) and Ordered a New Carburetor. I will post the outcome ASAP.

 

[Rivets]

I'm not even close to being the best tech on this forum, but we can only respond to what is posted. Those who have posted do not have the unit in front of us and just give you our options from what we read. If you are mad at some of us for what we post, that is your right, but to imply that we are not trying to help or giving bad info is not fair. By the way, a partially sheared flywheel key will mask many problems, but I have never seen it looking like a bad coil.

 

[Fish]

Has No Electric PTO. I haven't a Clue where the Electric Fuel shut off is located.? ( Small Electric plug in unit at bottom of Fuel Bowl.??? )

Yeah, it is that little doohickey at the bottom of the carb, and if your voltage drops too low, could explain your problem, especially since I saw somewhere that your battery was to low to try and restart. Or did I misread that?

 

[Fish]

Tried Choking but still won't stay running. Once it dies, have to wait several minutes to restart, often by then battery is low ( from trying to restart) have to recharge then it will restart. It will run for about 15 minutes and die again once I engage Blades. Seems like when it's under a load ( like cutting relatively high grass) it starts Popping getting ready to die, but most times if I disengage blades it will continue to run, then if I engage blades it will die..???? Just doesn't make sense,the mower deck is Not electrically controlled..?

Sounds like a new battery may be in order anyway, you should also read the charging voltage while running, wasting money on a new carb, is just that, a "waste".

 

[BONDOBILL]

I'm not even close to being the best tech on this forum, but we can only respond to what is posted. Those who have posted do not have the unit in front of us and just give you our options from what we read. If you are mad at some of us for what we post, that is your right, but to imply that we are not trying to help or giving bad info is not fair. By the way, a partially sheared flywheel key will mask many problems, but I have never seen it looking like a bad coil.

Hold on there Podner, I never "Implied" any wrong doing by anyone. I truly appreciate Any and ALL Information supplied to me. I haven't a Clue what you read into anything I may have said, but I assure you there was No implication intended. I merely took all into consideration and chose the Fastest and easiest ( altho most expensive ) way to resolve my problem. Unknowingly a Friend insisted to buy the Carb for me...What would you have done..?

 

[Fish]

I Put another carb from a good running engine on mine and it performs exactly the same way.

Sorry, we guys here just have to go on the info that you folks provide...........