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POOPS AND POPS AND DIES
#1
B
BONDOBILL
I have a 2000 Craftsman LT 1000 with a Briggs & Stratton 17 HP Engine and a 42 Inch Mower Deck...( I Know... it's Old) But I bought it Brand new and with TLC it has given me Great service beyond expectations.
Just recently when I engage the Mower deck it will run for about 15 minutes or so then start Popping and dies ??
I have Capped off ALL Safety switches so it will stay running and Start without having to sit on the mower.
I did this for the process of elimination of the problem I'm having with it dieing. I am the Only user of the mower so I'm not concerned about any Safety issues. New Fuel Filter, Cleaned and adjusted the Carb and it seems to run fine until I engage the Blades..???
I'll be happy to fill you in with any questions, Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
My Friends call me BONDO.
B
BONDOBILL
I have a 2000 Craftsman LT 1000 with a Briggs & Stratton 17 HP Engine and a 42 Inch Mower Deck...( I Know... it's Old) But I bought it Brand new and with TLC it has given me Great service beyond expectations.
Just recently when I engage the Mower deck it will run for about 15 minutes or so then start Popping and dies ??
I have Capped off ALL Safety switches so it will stay running and Start without having to sit on the mower.
I did this for the process of elimination of the problem I'm having with it dieing. I am the Only user of the mower so I'm not concerned about any Safety issues. New Fuel Filter, Cleaned and adjusted the Carb and it seems to run fine until I engage the Blades..???
I'll be happy to fill you in with any questions, Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
My Friends call me BONDO.
#2
Fish
Fish
give us model numbers so we know what you have. Off of the engine and tractor, thanks
#3
reynoldston
reynoldston
couple of things, tight valves or bad coil and seeing it dies I would think bad coil.
#4
Fish
Fish
well electric pto, fuel shutoff solenoid are some nasty variables. Might be a factor considering that it acts up 15 minutes after engaging the deck, and starts "popping" then dies.
It would be good to know if it had an electric pto, eh???
Or a fuel shutoff solenoid? Might be something to explain things.......
It would be good to know if it had an electric pto, eh???
Or a fuel shutoff solenoid? Might be something to explain things.......
#5
R
Rivets
R
Rivets
Please give us a little more info. Does it restart after it dies or do you have to wait? Have you tried to choke it to keep it runnig? Remember you have to give us the best picture of what is happening, as we are not there to see on our own.
#6
B
BONDOBILL
Has No Electric PTO. I haven't a Clue where the Electric Fuel shut off is located.? ( Small Electric plug in unit at bottom of Fuel Bowl.??? )
B
BONDOBILL
well electric pto, fuel shutoff solenoid are some nasty variables. Might be a factor considering that it acts up 15 minutes after engaging the deck, and starts "popping" then dies.
It would be good to know if it had an electric pto, eh???
Or a fuel shutoff solenoid? Might be something to explain things.......
Has No Electric PTO. I haven't a Clue where the Electric Fuel shut off is located.? ( Small Electric plug in unit at bottom of Fuel Bowl.??? )
#7
B
BONDOBILL
LT1000
17HP
MODEL # 917-271653
SERIAL # 080802A014318
OFF BRIGGS & STRATTON ENGINE COVER---
FAMILY "Y" YBSXS.5012VP 274826
MODEL 310707
TYPE 0137-E1
CODE 020628ZE
B
BONDOBILL
give us model numbers so we know what you have. Off of the engine and tractor, thanks
LT1000
17HP
MODEL # 917-271653
SERIAL # 080802A014318
OFF BRIGGS & STRATTON ENGINE COVER---
FAMILY "Y" YBSXS.5012VP 274826
MODEL 310707
TYPE 0137-E1
CODE 020628ZE
#8
B
BONDOBILL
Tried Choking but still won't stay running. Once it dies, have to wait several minutes to restart, often by then battery is low ( from trying to restart) have to recharge then it will restart. It will run for about 15 minutes and die again once I engage Blades. Seems like when it's under a load ( like cutting relatively high grass) it starts Popping getting ready to die, but most times if I disengage blades it will continue to run, then if I engage blades it will die..???? Just doesn't make sense,the mower deck is Not electrically controlled..?
B
BONDOBILL
Please give us a little more info. Does it restart after it dies or do you have to wait? Have you tried to choke it to keep it runnig? Remember you have to give us the best picture of what is happening, as we are not there to see on our own.
Tried Choking but still won't stay running. Once it dies, have to wait several minutes to restart, often by then battery is low ( from trying to restart) have to recharge then it will restart. It will run for about 15 minutes and die again once I engage Blades. Seems like when it's under a load ( like cutting relatively high grass) it starts Popping getting ready to die, but most times if I disengage blades it will continue to run, then if I engage blades it will die..???? Just doesn't make sense,the mower deck is Not electrically controlled..?
#9
B
BONDOBILL
I was a Truck mechanic for many years a long time ago, Forgot more than I can remember. Also Owner Auto Body/Paint business for many years, hence "Bondo Bill". 72 years old with typical Aging problems along with some "Extra" Mother Natures revenge on this old body. Just trying to make this old mower outlast Me.
B
BONDOBILL
Please give us a little more info. Does it restart after it dies or do you have to wait? Have you tried to choke it to keep it runnig? Remember you have to give us the best picture of what is happening, as we are not there to see on our own.
I was a Truck mechanic for many years a long time ago, Forgot more than I can remember. Also Owner Auto Body/Paint business for many years, hence "Bondo Bill". 72 years old with typical Aging problems along with some "Extra" Mother Natures revenge on this old body. Just trying to make this old mower outlast Me.
#10
gfp55
Coils bad.
gfp55
Tried Choking but still won't stay running. Once it dies, have to wait several minutes to restart, often by then battery is low ( from trying to restart) have to recharge then it will restart. It will run for about 15 minutes and die again once I engage Blades. Seems like when it's under a load ( like cutting relatively high grass) it starts Popping getting ready to die, but most times if I disengage blades it will continue to run, then if I engage blades it will die..???? Just doesn't make sense,the mower deck is Not electrically controlled..?
Coils bad.
#11
R
Rivets
R
Rivets
If you can keep it going by disengaging the blades, I would say that it is not the coil. I suspect a fuel problem. If it came into the shop with those symptoms I would start by removing the carb, give it a good cleaning and replace the float needle and seat. I know you said you cleaned it already, but you have a lean condition and if the float needle or seat has swelled it is lowering the fuel level in the carb. Another possibility is a bad pulse line on the fuel pump, if you have one. It may have a crack the gets worse and leaks when it warms up.
#12
B
BONDOBILL
Motor seems to run decent, then it starts popping slightly, but when I put a Load on the engine ( like engaging the Mower deck) it starts popping/ sputtering harder. then smooths out and runs OK until I hit a patch of Grass about 4 or 5 inches tall then it starts sputtering until clear of that grass. If I continue into that deep grass engine will sputter and die. I Put another carb from a good running engine on mine and it performs exactly the same way. Cleaned and regapped Spark plug, Clean Air Filter, New Inline fuel filter, Fuel Bowl Clean, No Fuel restrictions. Governor tries to keep engine RPM up but still Sputters and dies under a Load. Disengage Mower deck still sputters somewhat but stays running. Why would engaging Mower deck effect engine performance unless it's just the Load on the engine.?? Bad Coil...? Engine timing..? I feel pretty confident it's Not a Fuel or Carburetor problem. HELP...!!!!!! I'm running out of excuses..! This Mower has been Well cared for by Me for 14 years, absolutely No abuse.
B
BONDOBILL
Coils bad.
Motor seems to run decent, then it starts popping slightly, but when I put a Load on the engine ( like engaging the Mower deck) it starts popping/ sputtering harder. then smooths out and runs OK until I hit a patch of Grass about 4 or 5 inches tall then it starts sputtering until clear of that grass. If I continue into that deep grass engine will sputter and die. I Put another carb from a good running engine on mine and it performs exactly the same way. Cleaned and regapped Spark plug, Clean Air Filter, New Inline fuel filter, Fuel Bowl Clean, No Fuel restrictions. Governor tries to keep engine RPM up but still Sputters and dies under a Load. Disengage Mower deck still sputters somewhat but stays running. Why would engaging Mower deck effect engine performance unless it's just the Load on the engine.?? Bad Coil...? Engine timing..? I feel pretty confident it's Not a Fuel or Carburetor problem. HELP...!!!!!! I'm running out of excuses..! This Mower has been Well cared for by Me for 14 years, absolutely No abuse.
#13
B
BONDOBILL
I'm Not the Superman of Mechanics although I'm pretty darn Good. I Never NIX out any ones opinion, you never know where your Next Brilliant Fix comes from. This Mower has a gravity feed, No Fuel Pump and plenty of fuel flowing.
B
BONDOBILL
If you can keep it going by disengaging the blades, I would say that it is not the coil. I suspect a fuel problem. If it came into the shop with those symptoms I would start by removing the carb, give it a good cleaning and replace the float needle and seat. I know you said you cleaned it already, but you have a lean condition and if the float needle or seat has swelled it is lowering the fuel level in the carb. Another possibility is a bad pulse line on the fuel pump, if you have one. It may have a crack the gets worse and leaks when it warms up.
I'm Not the Superman of Mechanics although I'm pretty darn Good. I Never NIX out any ones opinion, you never know where your Next Brilliant Fix comes from. This Mower has a gravity feed, No Fuel Pump and plenty of fuel flowing.
#14
R
Rivets
R
Rivets
From what you say my next step would be either a partially sheared flywheel key, does not have to be much, and then look at the valve clearances.
#15
B
BONDOBILL
Sears Tech says by my description it is definitely Not a Bad Coil, but rather a Fuel problem.? General consensus here on the Forum seems Split between Bad Coil or Fuel Problem. I chose the easier to repair,( although Costly) and Ordered a New Carburetor. I will post the outcome ASAP.
B
BONDOBILL
I'm Not the Superman of Mechanics although I'm pretty darn Good. I Never NIX out any ones opinion, you never know where your Next Brilliant Fix comes from. This Mower has a gravity feed, No Fuel Pump and plenty of fuel flowing.
Sears Tech says by my description it is definitely Not a Bad Coil, but rather a Fuel problem.? General consensus here on the Forum seems Split between Bad Coil or Fuel Problem. I chose the easier to repair,( although Costly) and Ordered a New Carburetor. I will post the outcome ASAP.
#16
R
Rivets
R
Rivets
I'm not even close to being the best tech on this forum, but we can only respond to what is posted. Those who have posted do not have the unit in front of us and just give you our options from what we read. If you are mad at some of us for what we post, that is your right, but to imply that we are not trying to help or giving bad info is not fair. By the way, a partially sheared flywheel key will mask many problems, but I have never seen it looking like a bad coil.
#17
Fish
Yeah, it is that little doohickey at the bottom of the carb, and if your voltage drops too low, could explain your problem, especially since I saw somewhere that your battery was to low to try and restart. Or did I misread that?
Fish
Has No Electric PTO. I haven't a Clue where the Electric Fuel shut off is located.? ( Small Electric plug in unit at bottom of Fuel Bowl.??? )
Yeah, it is that little doohickey at the bottom of the carb, and if your voltage drops too low, could explain your problem, especially since I saw somewhere that your battery was to low to try and restart. Or did I misread that?
#18
Fish
Sounds like a new battery may be in order anyway, you should also read the charging voltage while running, wasting money on a new carb, is just that, a "waste".
Fish
Tried Choking but still won't stay running. Once it dies, have to wait several minutes to restart, often by then battery is low ( from trying to restart) have to recharge then it will restart. It will run for about 15 minutes and die again once I engage Blades. Seems like when it's under a load ( like cutting relatively high grass) it starts Popping getting ready to die, but most times if I disengage blades it will continue to run, then if I engage blades it will die..???? Just doesn't make sense,the mower deck is Not electrically controlled..?
Sounds like a new battery may be in order anyway, you should also read the charging voltage while running, wasting money on a new carb, is just that, a "waste".
#19
B
BONDOBILL
Hold on there Podner, I never "Implied" any wrong doing by anyone. I truly appreciate Any and ALL Information supplied to me. I haven't a Clue what you read into anything I may have said, but I assure you there was No implication intended. I merely took all into consideration and chose the Fastest and easiest ( altho most expensive ) way to resolve my problem. Unknowingly a Friend insisted to buy the Carb for me...What would you have done..?
B
BONDOBILL
I'm not even close to being the best tech on this forum, but we can only respond to what is posted. Those who have posted do not have the unit in front of us and just give you our options from what we read. If you are mad at some of us for what we post, that is your right, but to imply that we are not trying to help or giving bad info is not fair. By the way, a partially sheared flywheel key will mask many problems, but I have never seen it looking like a bad coil.
Hold on there Podner, I never "Implied" any wrong doing by anyone. I truly appreciate Any and ALL Information supplied to me. I haven't a Clue what you read into anything I may have said, but I assure you there was No implication intended. I merely took all into consideration and chose the Fastest and easiest ( altho most expensive ) way to resolve my problem. Unknowingly a Friend insisted to buy the Carb for me...What would you have done..?
#20
Fish
Sorry, we guys here just have to go on the info that you folks provide...........
Fish
I Put another carb from a good running engine on mine and it performs exactly the same way.
Sorry, we guys here just have to go on the info that you folks provide...........
#21
Fish
Fish
Why would you buy a new carb, when you already "swapped" one from a good running engine? Yeah we here are glad to try and help folks, but if they are just trying to get us to jump through hoops..... Well.......
Sorry, I have been helping folks online for 15 years, and have seen a lot of bored folks.... I apologize in advance if I am wrong, I would hope that I am....
I still am trying to help you and save you some money..........
Sorry, I have been helping folks online for 15 years, and have seen a lot of bored folks.... I apologize in advance if I am wrong, I would hope that I am....
I still am trying to help you and save you some money..........
#22
Fish
Fish
I mean, we are not working on the "Space Shuttle" here, with the correct dialog, we should be able to figure things out.
#23
B
BONDOBILL
A New battery is coming, and No you did not misread my statement. I had No idea that a Low battery affected the fuel Doohickey at the fuel bowl like that..? Once I started the unit the Voltage meter reads a very good charge, I figured that would be sufficient for any Electrical needs being it runs basically on the Magneto...?? Guess I was wrong..! I really do appreciate all your input.
B
BONDOBILL
Yeah, it is that little doohickey at the bottom of the carb, and if your voltage drops too low, could explain your problem, especially since I saw somewhere that your battery was to low to try and restart. Or did I misread that?
A New battery is coming, and No you did not misread my statement. I had No idea that a Low battery affected the fuel Doohickey at the fuel bowl like that..? Once I started the unit the Voltage meter reads a very good charge, I figured that would be sufficient for any Electrical needs being it runs basically on the Magneto...?? Guess I was wrong..! I really do appreciate all your input.
#24
B
BONDOBILL
Ordered a New Carb, but I'm going to change the Flywheel Key as you suggested anyway.
Thanks for the Info.
B
BONDOBILL
From what you say my next step would be either a partially sheared flywheel key, does not have to be much, and then look at the valve clearances.
Ordered a New Carb, but I'm going to change the Flywheel Key as you suggested anyway.
Thanks for the Info.
#25
B
BONDOBILL
I wasn't going to Replace the carb yet, I was going to try a rebuild kit, but a very good friend insisted they buy me a New Carb so to get it back to working condition quickly, What would you do..?? ( By the way, I Cut that "Friends Grass for free for years). At $150.00 I couldn't afford that price.
B
BONDOBILL
Sounds like a new battery may be in order anyway, you should also read the charging voltage while running, wasting money on a new carb, is just that, a "waste".
I wasn't going to Replace the carb yet, I was going to try a rebuild kit, but a very good friend insisted they buy me a New Carb so to get it back to working condition quickly, What would you do..?? ( By the way, I Cut that "Friends Grass for free for years). At $150.00 I couldn't afford that price.
#26
gfp55
So do you have access to another engine like yours? You said you put another carb from a good running engine and it performs the same.
gfp55
Motor seems to run decent, then it starts popping slightly, but when I put a Load on the engine ( like engaging the Mower deck) it starts popping/ sputtering harder. then smooths out and runs OK until I hit a patch of Grass about 4 or 5 inches tall then it starts sputtering until clear of that grass. If I continue into that deep grass engine will sputter and die. I Put another carb from a good running engine on mine and it performs exactly the same way. Cleaned and regapped Spark plug, Clean Air Filter, New Inline fuel filter, Fuel Bowl Clean, No Fuel restrictions. Governor tries to keep engine RPM up but still Sputters and dies under a Load. Disengage Mower deck still sputters somewhat but stays running. Why would engaging Mower deck effect engine performance unless it's just the Load on the engine.?? Bad Coil...? Engine timing..? I feel pretty confident it's Not a Fuel or Carburetor problem. HELP...!!!!!! I'm running out of excuses..! This Mower has been Well cared for by Me for 14 years, absolutely No abuse.
So do you have access to another engine like yours? You said you put another carb from a good running engine and it performs the same.
#27
B
BONDOBILL
OUCH..!!! A Miscommunication of words apparently here.? Bored..? Jump through Hoops..? I'm afraid you've misjudged me sir, I would never insult anyone I was asking for help from. I had to return the Carb I borrowed to try it on my engine. I was suggested to try a new Needle and Seat etc but as I said a Good friend insisted buying me a New Carb, how could I refuse? I am still going to change out the Flywheel key just because, That I could afford at $3.00. I'm 72 years old and on disability for 2 heart attacks and three Strokes and very limited on physical activity due to my strokes, so I'm trying to eliminated the hard work as much as possible.
B
BONDOBILL
Why would you buy a new carb, when you already "swapped" one from a good running engine? Yeah we here are glad to try and help folks, but if they are just trying to get us to jump through hoops..... Well.......
Sorry, I have been helping folks online for 15 years, and have seen a lot of bored folks.... I apologize in advance if I am wrong, I would hope that I am....
I still am trying to help you and save you some money..........
OUCH..!!! A Miscommunication of words apparently here.? Bored..? Jump through Hoops..? I'm afraid you've misjudged me sir, I would never insult anyone I was asking for help from. I had to return the Carb I borrowed to try it on my engine. I was suggested to try a new Needle and Seat etc but as I said a Good friend insisted buying me a New Carb, how could I refuse? I am still going to change out the Flywheel key just because, That I could afford at $3.00. I'm 72 years old and on disability for 2 heart attacks and three Strokes and very limited on physical activity due to my strokes, so I'm trying to eliminated the hard work as much as possible.
#28
Fish
Fish
Well, if you tried a good running carb, why would the carb even be still in the discussion?
#29
B
BONDOBILL
Seems I rubbed someone the wrong way here, guess I'll look for another Forum.
B
BONDOBILL
Why would you buy a new carb, when you already "swapped" one from a good running engine? Yeah we here are glad to try and help folks, but if they are just trying to get us to jump through hoops..... Well.......
Sorry, I have been helping folks online for 15 years, and have seen a lot of bored folks.... I apologize in advance if I am wrong, I would hope that I am....
I still am trying to help you and save you some money..........
Seems I rubbed someone the wrong way here, guess I'll look for another Forum.
#30
gfp55
fish are you trying to make people mad? If you insult people no one will listen to you. Treat people the way you want to be treated.
gfp55
Sounds like a new battery may be in order anyway, you should also read the charging voltage while running, wasting money on a new carb, is just that, a "waste".
Sorry, we guys here just have to go on the info that you folks provide...........
Why would you buy a new carb, when you already "swapped" one from a good running engine? Yeah we here are glad to try and help folks, but if they are just trying to get us to jump through hoops..... Well.......
Sorry, I have been helping folks online for 15 years, and have seen a lot of bored folks.... I apologize in advance if I am wrong, I would hope that I am....
I still am trying to help you and save you some money..........
I mean, we are not working on the "Space Shuttle" here, with the correct dialog, we should be able to figure things out.
fish are you trying to make people mad? If you insult people no one will listen to you. Treat people the way you want to be treated.
#31
R
Rivets
R
Rivets
I reread the thread and I misunderstood what you were saying. Sorry. We're here to help, just that at times the original poster doesn't know who to listen to. Just like we can't see your unit, you can't see who we are. I'll say it again, you problem is fuel related, and replacing the carb should solve the problem. Don't worry about Mr. Fish, he is just an Asian Crap who has jumped out of the water a few to many times and hit his head on the gunnel more than once. Most people learn who to listen to. Good luck and let us know how it works out.
#32
Carscw
With the engine running the charging system provides plenty of volts and amps to keep the anti-backfire solenoid open.
I would look at the flywheel key.
Carscw
A New battery is coming, and No you did not misread my statement. I had No idea that a Low battery affected the fuel Doohickey at the fuel bowl like that..? Once I started the unit the Voltage meter reads a very good charge, I figured that would be sufficient for any Electrical needs being it runs basically on the Magneto...?? Guess I was wrong..! I really do appreciate all your input.
With the engine running the charging system provides plenty of volts and amps to keep the anti-backfire solenoid open.
I would look at the flywheel key.
#33
gfp55
gfp55
The guy asked for advice on his mower and then had to start defending himself because some can't read or don't read the whole thread. If I want to gold plate the bottom of my mower deck it's MY MONEY to do with what I want, but I sure someone on this forum would feel the need to tell me I wasting MY MONEY. If it was YOUR MONEY then you might have something to say about it. Do you people know others read this.Seems I rubbed someone the wrong way here, guess I'll look for another Forum.
#34
DJlawnboy
DJlawnboy
Why most gfp55 go after fish on every thread. Does he have a vendetta of some sort.The guy asked for advice on his mower and then had to start defending himself because some can't read or don't read the whole thread. If I want to gold plate the bottom of my mower deck it's MY MONEY to do with what I want, but I sure someone on this forum would feel the need to tell me I wasting MY MONEY. If it was YOUR MONEY then you might have something to say about it. Do you people know others read this.
#35
gfp55
gfp55
So You think its OK for him to chase off people. Read the whole thread.Why most gfp55 go after fish on every thread. Does he have a vendetta of some sort.
#36
DJlawnboy
DJlawnboy
I did he was doing good until the carb thing. Nicest Fish posts I've seen in a while.So You think its OK for him to chase off people. Read the whole thread.
#37
gfp55
gfp55
So Its OK to run people off?I did he was doing good until the carb thing. Nicest Fish posts I've seen in a while.
#38
DJlawnboy
DJlawnboy
I dunno I guess mods think it's okay because he hasn't been banned yet.So Its OK to run people off?
#39
johniii
johniii
Harsh words from fish,just saying!
#40
gfp55
Fish has gotten a lot better since then. He drove the poor guy asking for help away. He hasn't posted anything since. There has been some house cleaning on this forum with some banned, some spanked. Things are better now. "But thats just me"
gfp55
Harsh words from fish,just saying!
Fish has gotten a lot better since then. He drove the poor guy asking for help away. He hasn't posted anything since. There has been some house cleaning on this forum with some banned, some spanked. Things are better now. "But thats just me"
#41
B
bill1631
B
bill1631
Try unscrewing the the gas cap a little. The vent may be clogged and creating a vacuum in the tank.
Bill
Bill
#42
S
spring1802
I had same problem with X300 did the same repairs,finally had fuel tank removed and cleaned ,solved the problem
S
spring1802
I reread the thread and I misunderstood what you were saying. Sorry. We're here to help, just that at times the original poster doesn't know who to listen to. Just like we can't see your unit, you can't see who we are. I'll say it again, you problem is fuel related, and replacing the carb should solve the problem. Don't worry about Mr. Fish, he is just an Asian Crap who has jumped out of the water a few to many times and hit his head on the gunnel more than once. Most people learn who to listen to. Good luck and let us know how it works out.
I had same problem with X300 did the same repairs,finally had fuel tank removed and cleaned ,solved the problem
#43
D
Danz
I have a Craftsman 26HP with the fake twin style Nikki carbs. Just behind the choke butterfly's and held by one phillips screw is a thing with 4 holes in it and maybe 3/4" square. It gets plugged with carb crud and shuts off air or fuel or a signal to the carb. I've always used non ethanol premium and Stabil gas additive, even in the summer. After 7 - 8 years it started puffing black smoke when I engage the three blade deck. Then if you throttle back and let it catch up, it does it again at the first "load" on the motor. All little stuff checks out and float looks like it's doing the job but people say the O ring seal around the fuel tube inside the Nikki carb fuel bowl has a problem with the seal and draws too much fuel. Especially if it swells while you are cleaning the parts. Battery is 12.2v but could use a new one. I keep a battery minder on it when parked. I have the carb rebuild kit waiting for me to get busy. I had to get some reverse torx sockets first, the female version, star bits or external torx to get behind the choke butterfly's and replace / clean that area.
I got a small bit of help by swapping in new plugs for the fouled ones. I also checked the electric fuel shutoff. Reset the flywheel gap on the coils. Checked compression with a leak-down tester since that's all I had to work with. Both cylinders are equal at 170 ( not real accurate for this, I know ). This appears to be common on the Nikki carbs after they get dirty.
D
Danz
I had same problem with X300 did the same repairs,finally had fuel tank removed and cleaned ,solved the problem
I have a Craftsman 26HP with the fake twin style Nikki carbs. Just behind the choke butterfly's and held by one phillips screw is a thing with 4 holes in it and maybe 3/4" square. It gets plugged with carb crud and shuts off air or fuel or a signal to the carb. I've always used non ethanol premium and Stabil gas additive, even in the summer. After 7 - 8 years it started puffing black smoke when I engage the three blade deck. Then if you throttle back and let it catch up, it does it again at the first "load" on the motor. All little stuff checks out and float looks like it's doing the job but people say the O ring seal around the fuel tube inside the Nikki carb fuel bowl has a problem with the seal and draws too much fuel. Especially if it swells while you are cleaning the parts. Battery is 12.2v but could use a new one. I keep a battery minder on it when parked. I have the carb rebuild kit waiting for me to get busy. I had to get some reverse torx sockets first, the female version, star bits or external torx to get behind the choke butterfly's and replace / clean that area.
I got a small bit of help by swapping in new plugs for the fouled ones. I also checked the electric fuel shutoff. Reset the flywheel gap on the coils. Checked compression with a leak-down tester since that's all I had to work with. Both cylinders are equal at 170 ( not real accurate for this, I know ). This appears to be common on the Nikki carbs after they get dirty.