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Please Help! Ferris IS3000Z Won't start - Replaced Ignition, Seat Switch Brake Switch, Time Delay Module, Fuses
#1
R
Ru4him
R
Ru4him
Replaced Ignition, Seat Switch Brake Switch, Time Delay Module, Fuses
I can jump the hot wire on the starter to the ground and the starter turns over. But when I turn the key, nothing happens. No sound, no click.
I am behind on a job and need this fixed yesterday. Please help if you can.
I can jump the hot wire on the starter to the ground and the starter turns over. But when I turn the key, nothing happens. No sound, no click.
I am behind on a job and need this fixed yesterday. Please help if you can.
#2
Fish
Fish
Are you sure it is the correct keyswitch?
Turn the key on, and jump the starter again, and see if it starts.
Turn the key on, and jump the starter again, and see if it starts.
#3
Scrubcadet10
Scrubcadet10
what's the serial number?
you can get electrical schematics in the parts diagrams,
you can get electrical schematics in the parts diagrams,
Ferris IS3000Z Series Parts Lookup by Model
Ferris Exploded View parts lookup by model. Complete exploded views of all the major manufacturers. It is EASY and FREE
www.jackssmallengines.com
#4
B
bertsmobile1
B
bertsmobile1
Go to Ferris We page & download your wiring diagram
Ferris actually have some one there who knows how to draw a schematic that is easy to read & understand
I do not have one for the 1300 but the 1200 & 1500 look to be the same
Power to the solenoid goes from the S terminal on the key switch through the PTO switch, through the parking brake switch and both lap bars before it gets to the solenoid
What people miss is the ground to the solenoid
If there is no ground to the solenoid then put temporary one in till you can sort it out properly
I use short jumpers with male spades at each end to diagnose no crank problems in order to bypass the switches at the plugs
Easy on Ferris as they use the same colour ( yellow ) from the key to the solenoid.
Worth checking you have battery voltage at the B ( solid red ) terminal at the key switch , if not look at the fuses and the fuse holder.
ZTR's electrics take a beating cause they are exposed to the elements more than tractor wiring.
Ferris actually have some one there who knows how to draw a schematic that is easy to read & understand
I do not have one for the 1300 but the 1200 & 1500 look to be the same
Power to the solenoid goes from the S terminal on the key switch through the PTO switch, through the parking brake switch and both lap bars before it gets to the solenoid
What people miss is the ground to the solenoid
If there is no ground to the solenoid then put temporary one in till you can sort it out properly
I use short jumpers with male spades at each end to diagnose no crank problems in order to bypass the switches at the plugs
Easy on Ferris as they use the same colour ( yellow ) from the key to the solenoid.
Worth checking you have battery voltage at the B ( solid red ) terminal at the key switch , if not look at the fuses and the fuse holder.
ZTR's electrics take a beating cause they are exposed to the elements more than tractor wiring.
#5
R
Ru4him
R
Ru4him
I replaced it with the same switch. With the key on, I jumped the starter and it starts up and runs.Are you sure it is the correct keyswitch?
Turn the key on, and jump the starter again, and see if it starts.
#6
R
Ru4him
R
Ru4him
I put the red multimeter lead into the red on the switch with and without the key on. It doesn't give me a steady reading and jumps around from .1 to 3.1 Should it be 12.5 like the solenoid?Go to Ferris We page & download your wiring diagram
Ferris actually have some one there who knows how to draw a schematic that is easy to read & understand
I do not have one for the 1300 but the 1200 & 1500 look to be the same
Power to the solenoid goes from the S terminal on the key switch through the PTO switch, through the parking brake switch and both lap bars before it gets to the solenoid
What people miss is the ground to the solenoid
If there is no ground to the solenoid then put temporary one in till you can sort it out properly
I use short jumpers with male spades at each end to diagnose no crank problems in order to bypass the switches at the plugs
Easy on Ferris as they use the same colour ( yellow ) from the key to the solenoid.
Worth checking you have battery voltage at the B ( solid red ) terminal at the key switch , if not look at the fuses and the fuse holder.
ZTR's electrics take a beating cause they are exposed to the elements more than tractor wiring.
#7
R
Ru4him
Model# IS3000ZLKAV2661
R
Ru4him
Serial # 5108what's the serial number?
you can get electrical schematics in the parts diagrams,
Ferris IS3000Z Series Parts Lookup by Model
Ferris Exploded View parts lookup by model. Complete exploded views of all the major manufacturers. It is EASY and FREEwww.jackssmallengines.com
Model# IS3000ZLKAV2661
#8
R
Ru4him
R
Ru4him
This is the schematic for the cranking circuit:Serial # 5108
Model# IS3000ZLKAV2661
Ferris 5901059 - IS3000Z Series w/ 61" Mower Deck (IS3000ZLKAV2661) Assemblies Parts Diagram for Electrical Schematic - Cranking Circuit - Kawasaki LC
Ferris 5901059 - IS3000Z Series w/ 61" Mower Deck (IS3000ZLKAV2661) Assemblies Electrical Schematic - Cranking Circuit - Kawasaki LC Exploded View parts lookup by model. Complete exploded views of all the major manufacturers. It is EASY and FREE
www.jackssmallengines.com
#9
B
bertsmobile1
Switch ?
which switch ?
If it is the key switch and you are testing the solid red wire on the B terminal to ground, yes it should read the same as the battery cable on the solenoid .
So a broken wire or bad fuse or bad fuse holder come to mind
Run a temporary wire from the battery or solenoid battery cable to the S ( yellow ) wire on the plug
If everything else is in the start mode, the engine should crank.
If you have some uninsulated 1/4" crimps then make a temporary by pass wire to go from the key switch plug to the solenoid battery cable
To confirm the key is working pull the solid red out of the plug and put your temporary wire in the plug, plug the key switch in and try cranking the engine .
The terminals just pull out once you have poked a tiny screwdriver in the front of the switch to depress the barb .
If you only have the crap insulated terminals then cut the insulation off push the wire through the plug, crimp on the terminal, push it onto the key switch then push the plug onto the switch.
Remember this is just a temporary diagnosis & get you out of the poo situation
Ultimately you will need to replace the entire wire including the fuse .
I find it much bette to go to an auto store & get a new fuse holder that has loose terminals for you to crimp onto your own wires .
That way you can make a new wire with the minimum number of joints to bite you on the bum latter on .
B
bertsmobile1
Please keep in mind that you are there with the mower in front of your nose and we are here with nothing but words to look atI put the red multimeter lead into the red on the switch with and without the key on. It doesn't give me a steady reading and jumps around from .1 to 3.1 Should it be 12.5 like the solenoid?
Switch ?
which switch ?
If it is the key switch and you are testing the solid red wire on the B terminal to ground, yes it should read the same as the battery cable on the solenoid .
So a broken wire or bad fuse or bad fuse holder come to mind
Run a temporary wire from the battery or solenoid battery cable to the S ( yellow ) wire on the plug
If everything else is in the start mode, the engine should crank.
If you have some uninsulated 1/4" crimps then make a temporary by pass wire to go from the key switch plug to the solenoid battery cable
To confirm the key is working pull the solid red out of the plug and put your temporary wire in the plug, plug the key switch in and try cranking the engine .
The terminals just pull out once you have poked a tiny screwdriver in the front of the switch to depress the barb .
If you only have the crap insulated terminals then cut the insulation off push the wire through the plug, crimp on the terminal, push it onto the key switch then push the plug onto the switch.
Remember this is just a temporary diagnosis & get you out of the poo situation
Ultimately you will need to replace the entire wire including the fuse .
I find it much bette to go to an auto store & get a new fuse holder that has loose terminals for you to crimp onto your own wires .
That way you can make a new wire with the minimum number of joints to bite you on the bum latter on .
#10
R
Ru4him
I ran the temporary hot wire from the Pos Battery terminal to the yellow S terminal on the ignition switch with the key on. It started.
Then I pulled the red wire from the ignition switch and put in the temporary hot wire. It would not crank, nothing.
With the red wire B still pulled out, I Connected the temporary hot wire to the yellow S terminal and it would not crank.
With the red wire B put back in, I connected the temporary hot wire to the yellow S terminal. It started again and the mower is fully operational.
Question: Will it be OK to operate this mower starting the motor this way?
R
Ru4him
Please keep in mind that you are there with the mower in front of your nose and we are here with nothing but words to look at
Switch ?
which switch ?
If it is the key switch and you are testing the solid red wire on the B terminal to ground, yes it should read the same as the battery cable on the solenoid .
So a broken wire or bad fuse or bad fuse holder come to mind
Run a temporary wire from the battery or solenoid battery cable to the S ( yellow ) wire on the plug
If everything else is in the start mode, the engine should crank.
If you have some uninsulated 1/4" crimps then make a temporary by pass wire to go from the key switch plug to the solenoid battery cable
To confirm the key is working pull the solid red out of the plug and put your temporary wire in the plug, plug the key switch in and try cranking the engine .
The terminals just pull out once you have poked a tiny screwdriver in the front of the switch to depress the barb .
If you only have the crap insulated terminals then cut the insulation off push the wire through the plug, crimp on the terminal, push it onto the key switch then push the plug onto the switch.
Remember this is just a temporary diagnosis & get you out of the poo situation
Ultimately you will need to replace the entire wire including the fuse .
I find it much bette to go to an auto store & get a new fuse holder that has loose terminals for you to crimp onto your own wires .
That way you can make a new wire with the minimum number of joints to bite you on the bum latter on .
I ran the temporary hot wire from the Pos Battery terminal to the yellow S terminal on the ignition switch with the key on. It started.
Then I pulled the red wire from the ignition switch and put in the temporary hot wire. It would not crank, nothing.
With the red wire B still pulled out, I Connected the temporary hot wire to the yellow S terminal and it would not crank.
With the red wire B put back in, I connected the temporary hot wire to the yellow S terminal. It started again and the mower is fully operational.
Question: Will it be OK to operate this mower starting the motor this way?
#11
B
bertsmobile1
B
bertsmobile1
Short term, you will not cause a rip in the time : space continium using the the mower like that .
Long term it is potentially dangerous as it has a fault in the wiring .
This fault may not get any worse or it could be short & cause a fire .
OTOH your mowing season is not far off ending so make it a job for the off season .
Do yourself a MASSIVE favour and get the wiring diagram from the Ferris web page.
They have gone to the effort of publishing it in full colour which makes it really easy to trouble shoot .
From what you have done to date I would suspect the relay at the bottom of the page, or one of the switches that controls it .
Now this is a bit sneaky and confuses people because it is switching the ground contact to the bottom relay which then switches the ground to the top relay which then connects the yellow to the starter solenoid
So you have a switch to turn on a switch to turn on a switch , simple eh ?
When your head is clear and the grass is cut come back and we will walk you through a proper diagnosis & repair which in the long run is the safest for the mower, you & your family
Long term it is potentially dangerous as it has a fault in the wiring .
This fault may not get any worse or it could be short & cause a fire .
OTOH your mowing season is not far off ending so make it a job for the off season .
Do yourself a MASSIVE favour and get the wiring diagram from the Ferris web page.
They have gone to the effort of publishing it in full colour which makes it really easy to trouble shoot .
From what you have done to date I would suspect the relay at the bottom of the page, or one of the switches that controls it .
Now this is a bit sneaky and confuses people because it is switching the ground contact to the bottom relay which then switches the ground to the top relay which then connects the yellow to the starter solenoid
So you have a switch to turn on a switch to turn on a switch , simple eh ?
When your head is clear and the grass is cut come back and we will walk you through a proper diagnosis & repair which in the long run is the safest for the mower, you & your family
#12
R
Ru4him
R
Ru4him
It started, mowed a few minutes, now will start, but now when I activate any of the safety switches (arms, brake, PTO), it cuts off. Any way to bypass the safety switches until I can get caught up?Short term, you will not cause a rip in the time : space continium using the the mower like that .
Long term it is potentially dangerous as it has a fault in the wiring .
This fault may not get any worse or it could be short & cause a fire .
OTOH your mowing season is not far off ending so make it a job for the off season .
Do yourself a MASSIVE favour and get the wiring diagram from the Ferris web page.
They have gone to the effort of publishing it in full colour which makes it really easy to trouble shoot .
From what you have done to date I would suspect the relay at the bottom of the page, or one of the switches that controls it .
Now this is a bit sneaky and confuses people because it is switching the ground contact to the bottom relay which then switches the ground to the top relay which then connects the yellow to the starter solenoid
So you have a switch to turn on a switch to turn on a switch , simple eh ?
When your head is clear and the grass is cut come back and we will walk you through a proper diagnosis & repair which in the long run is the safest for the mower, you & your family
#13
B
bertsmobile1
B
bertsmobile1
For now I have sent you a PM with a work around .
Because of all of he idiot morons on the planet, I never post this type of information on a public forum.
This is both to help me as well as to protect others because the instant some one shows people who do not have the understanding how to bypass the safety system, some fool hurts themselves and then the factory makes the system even more complicated which makes my life trying to fix them even more difficult .
When you have the time, come back and some one here will walk you through the testing proceedure
It is not difficult to do , just tedious and needs to be done methodically with care not rushed through because the lions have just eaten the dog & you can't find where you left the car .
Because of all of he idiot morons on the planet, I never post this type of information on a public forum.
This is both to help me as well as to protect others because the instant some one shows people who do not have the understanding how to bypass the safety system, some fool hurts themselves and then the factory makes the system even more complicated which makes my life trying to fix them even more difficult .
When you have the time, come back and some one here will walk you through the testing proceedure
It is not difficult to do , just tedious and needs to be done methodically with care not rushed through because the lions have just eaten the dog & you can't find where you left the car .