Please Help! Ferris IS3000Z Won't start - Replaced Ignition, Seat Switch Brake Switch, Time Delay Module, Fuses

[Ru4him]

Replaced Ignition, Seat Switch Brake Switch, Time Delay Module, Fuses
I can jump the hot wire on the starter to the ground and the starter turns over. But when I turn the key, nothing happens. No sound, no click.
I am behind on a job and need this fixed yesterday. Please help if you can.

 

[Fish]

Are you sure it is the correct keyswitch?
Turn the key on, and jump the starter again, and see if it starts.

 

[Scrubcadet10]

what's the serial number?
you can get electrical schematics in the parts diagrams,

Ferris IS3000Z Series Parts Lookup by Model

Ferris Exploded View parts lookup by model. Complete exploded views of all the major manufacturers. It is EASY and FREE

www.jackssmallengines.com

 

[bertsmobile1]

Go to Ferris We page & download your wiring diagram
Ferris actually have some one there who knows how to draw a schematic that is easy to read & understand
I do not have one for the 1300 but the 1200 & 1500 look to be the same
Power to the solenoid goes from the S terminal on the key switch through the PTO switch, through the parking brake switch and both lap bars before it gets to the solenoid
What people miss is the ground to the solenoid
If there is no ground to the solenoid then put temporary one in till you can sort it out properly
I use short jumpers with male spades at each end to diagnose no crank problems in order to bypass the switches at the plugs
Easy on Ferris as they use the same colour ( yellow ) from the key to the solenoid.
Worth checking you have battery voltage at the B ( solid red ) terminal at the key switch , if not look at the fuses and the fuse holder.
ZTR's electrics take a beating cause they are exposed to the elements more than tractor wiring.

 

[Ru4him]

Are you sure it is the correct keyswitch?
Turn the key on, and jump the starter again, and see if it starts.

I replaced it with the same switch. With the key on, I jumped the starter and it starts up and runs.

 

[Ru4him]

Go to Ferris We page & download your wiring diagram
Ferris actually have some one there who knows how to draw a schematic that is easy to read & understand
I do not have one for the 1300 but the 1200 & 1500 look to be the same
Power to the solenoid goes from the S terminal on the key switch through the PTO switch, through the parking brake switch and both lap bars before it gets to the solenoid
What people miss is the ground to the solenoid
If there is no ground to the solenoid then put temporary one in till you can sort it out properly
I use short jumpers with male spades at each end to diagnose no crank problems in order to bypass the switches at the plugs
Easy on Ferris as they use the same colour ( yellow ) from the key to the solenoid.
Worth checking you have battery voltage at the B ( solid red ) terminal at the key switch , if not look at the fuses and the fuse holder.
ZTR's electrics take a beating cause they are exposed to the elements more than tractor wiring.

I put the red multimeter lead into the red on the switch with and without the key on. It doesn't give me a steady reading and jumps around from .1 to 3.1 Should it be 12.5 like the solenoid?

 

[Ru4him]

what's the serial number?
you can get electrical schematics in the parts diagrams,

Ferris IS3000Z Series Parts Lookup by Model

Ferris Exploded View parts lookup by model. Complete exploded views of all the major manufacturers. It is EASY and FREE

www.jackssmallengines.com

Serial # 5108
Model# IS3000ZLKAV2661

 

[Ru4him]

Serial # 5108
Model# IS3000ZLKAV2661

This is the schematic for the cranking circuit:

Ferris 5901059 - IS3000Z Series w/ 61" Mower Deck (IS3000ZLKAV2661) Assemblies Parts Diagram for Electrical Schematic - Cranking Circuit - Kawasaki LC

Ferris 5901059 - IS3000Z Series w/ 61" Mower Deck (IS3000ZLKAV2661) Assemblies Electrical Schematic - Cranking Circuit - Kawasaki LC Exploded View parts lookup by model. Complete exploded views of all the major manufacturers. It is EASY and FREE

www.jackssmallengines.com

 

[bertsmobile1]

I put the red multimeter lead into the red on the switch with and without the key on. It doesn't give me a steady reading and jumps around from .1 to 3.1 Should it be 12.5 like the solenoid?

Please keep in mind that you are there with the mower in front of your nose and we are here with nothing but words to look at
Switch ?
which switch ?
If it is the key switch and you are testing the solid red wire on the B terminal to ground, yes it should read the same as the battery cable on the solenoid .
So a broken wire or bad fuse or bad fuse holder come to mind

Run a temporary wire from the battery or solenoid battery cable to the S ( yellow ) wire on the plug
If everything else is in the start mode, the engine should crank.

If you have some uninsulated 1/4" crimps then make a temporary by pass wire to go from the key switch plug to the solenoid battery cable
To confirm the key is working pull the solid red out of the plug and put your temporary wire in the plug, plug the key switch in and try cranking the engine .
The terminals just pull out once you have poked a tiny screwdriver in the front of the switch to depress the barb .
If you only have the crap insulated terminals then cut the insulation off push the wire through the plug, crimp on the terminal, push it onto the key switch then push the plug onto the switch.

Remember this is just a temporary diagnosis & get you out of the poo situation
Ultimately you will need to replace the entire wire including the fuse .
I find it much bette to go to an auto store & get a new fuse holder that has loose terminals for you to crimp onto your own wires .
That way you can make a new wire with the minimum number of joints to bite you on the bum latter on .

 

[Ru4him]

Please keep in mind that you are there with the mower in front of your nose and we are here with nothing but words to look at
Switch ?
which switch ?
If it is the key switch and you are testing the solid red wire on the B terminal to ground, yes it should read the same as the battery cable on the solenoid .
So a broken wire or bad fuse or bad fuse holder come to mind

Run a temporary wire from the battery or solenoid battery cable to the S ( yellow ) wire on the plug
If everything else is in the start mode, the engine should crank.

If you have some uninsulated 1/4" crimps then make a temporary by pass wire to go from the key switch plug to the solenoid battery cable
To confirm the key is working pull the solid red out of the plug and put your temporary wire in the plug, plug the key switch in and try cranking the engine .
The terminals just pull out once you have poked a tiny screwdriver in the front of the switch to depress the barb .
If you only have the crap insulated terminals then cut the insulation off push the wire through the plug, crimp on the terminal, push it onto the key switch then push the plug onto the switch.

Remember this is just a temporary diagnosis & get you out of the poo situation
Ultimately you will need to replace the entire wire including the fuse .
I find it much bette to go to an auto store & get a new fuse holder that has loose terminals for you to crimp onto your own wires .
That way you can make a new wire with the minimum number of joints to bite you on the bum latter on .

I ran the temporary hot wire from the Pos Battery terminal to the yellow S terminal on the ignition switch with the key on. It started.

Then I pulled the red wire from the ignition switch and put in the temporary hot wire. It would not crank, nothing.

With the red wire B still pulled out, I Connected the temporary hot wire to the yellow S terminal and it would not crank.

With the red wire B put back in, I connected the temporary hot wire to the yellow S terminal. It started again and the mower is fully operational.

Question: Will it be OK to operate this mower starting the motor this way?