Peerless 206 565 transaxle seems to be broken

[Rivets]

Pages 66-70 of this manual should help you. https://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/Peerless-Tecumseh-Transmissions-Transaxles-Differentials-Gear-Boxs/

 

[dufferDave]

Pages 66-70 of this manual should help you. https://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/Peerless-Tecumseh-Transmissions-Transaxles-Differentials-Gear-Boxs/

I am looking at pages 57 to 62 (for "MST 200") and the illustrations look like my hardware.

 

[Rivets]

I probably listed the wrong pages.

 

[StarTech]

Ah I see the problem. There is a at least two different manuals that cover the MST200. The K&T version has few pages. It only has 105 PDF pages (691218 no revision date) where the one Rivets is referring to has more PDF pages and the one I have the same section starts of 66 and goes to 71 [PDF pages 69-74] (691218 R 3/02). So Rivets is probably referring to the 3/02 revision manual plus he appears to overlooking the oil checking page, easy to do.

 

[Hammermechanicman]

I am looking at pages 57 to 62 (for "MST 200") and the illustrations look like my hardware.

If that is the trans you have the biggest weak part is the shift lever. There is a collar that moves to change gears. The shift fork engages it. Check to see if when you turn the shift input shaft it moves the shift collar.
Last one i changed was a few years ago. Had a hard time finding the part. There are 2 different levers. Old and new style. New style is stronger.

 

[dufferDave]

Monday afternoon status

Thanks to everybody for the instructions, hints, tips, and suggestions. I am reading them all.

Got the gearbox apart and tore down the shift shaft, all the way down to pieces. The shift keys looked just fine, barely any wear marks, no sign of cracks or other damage, still plenty springy, absolutely no broken pieces. That was a lot of work just to confirm that, but at least I can check off that box. Gearbox looks like it needed new oil anyway.

Before I put this back together, what parts should I get to replace the old stuff? I plan to get (at least) the oil seals, for both axles and the end of the brake shaft that penetrates the transaxle body. The brass bushings all seem in great condition, all are still smooth inside, fit tightly on the axles, and show very little wobble/freeplay when re-installed. Any other parts I should think about as long as I have it all torn open?

And I still don't know why the mower wasn't going into gear.

 

[bertsmobile1]

A bit late now but how do the rest of the shift linkages look
'If you got the stick on the box it is a moot point but if you have a shift lever on the guard or dash they can wear oval so don't actually move the shift lever at the box far enough to shift gears.
What is critical wear wise is the end float on the layshaft .
Select each gear by manually moving the shift collar and check that moving one shaft moves the other .
The long keys under the free rotating gears are the ones that break off so you end up with no drive

 

[dufferDave]

'If you got the stick on the box it is a moot point but if you have a shift lever on the guard or dash they can wear oval so don't actually move the shift lever at the box far enough to shift gears.
........

My gearshift control is a big lever sticking up thru the deck next to my right hip. It is firmly linked (no slop, I already checked that) to a torsion bar that traverses under the deck to more linkage (also tight) on the left. That is what attaches to the lever on the top of the transaxle. All that stuff works pretty solidly, and the last time I had the transaxle installed the lever and linkage outside the gearbox worked fine, but that's where everything seemed to quit.

This evening I laid all the axles back inside the top of the transaxle housing and got all the gear teeth meshed nice and pretty. Just for grins, I tried turning the input shaft. With the neutral collar still in the neutral position on the shift shaft, there was no rotation in either wheel output axle (and wasn't supposed to be). Just for grins, I slid the neutral collar up to engage one of the forward gears and turned the input shaft some more and lo and behold, the wheel axles were turning. I slid the neutral collar to a few more positions and everything kept on working.

I have absolutely no idea how or what I fixed. All I did was take some stuff apart and put it back together. Anything else that somehow got fixed was purely by accident and I never noticed it happening. Go figure. All I know is I'm gonna just quietly sliiiide the other half of that cover back on, and bolt it back in place, cross my fingers, and hope it all continues to stay fixed.

Everybody hold your breath. And thanks again for your help.

 

[bertsmobile1]

Check the shift keys that slide in the key ways on the shaft.
If they are broken then there may be enough there to provide drive when there is no load on the axels .

 

[dufferDave]

Keys checked (did you see post #16?)