Older LT1000, breaking clutch actuator cable ends.

[Cusser]

I've got a 2005 LT1000, 917.3888020.

The owner's manual lists two different length belts for these two, but like 1/4" difference.
160855 tractor drive belt 95” x ½”
144959 mowing blade belt 95.5” x ½”

So I use 95" x 1/2" Kevlar belts for BOTH the lawn tractor drive belt and the mower belt. Right now I'm using a 95" x 1/2" D&D Kevlar belt for the deck/mowing blades.

 

[joea99]

I've got a 2005 LT1000, 917.3888020.

The owner's manual lists two different length belts for these two, but like 1/4" difference.
160855 tractor drive belt 95” x ½”
144959 mowing blade belt 95.5” x ½”

So I use 95" x 1/2" Kevlar belts for BOTH the lawn tractor drive belt and the mower belt. Right now I'm using a 95" x 1/2" D&D Kevlar belt for the deck/mowing blades.

Mine lists
140294 for drive 82 x 1/2
144959 for deck 95.5 x 1/2
That's what I loved about Sears/Craftsman. Same "model" but different product numbers and often "not quite the same".

Yours likely has a electric clutch as well.

 

[joea99]

Perhaps someone will notice this update and respond.

Got the brake/arm kit.

Seems the part that goes under the shouldered "pivot bolt" for the brake arms are not the correct ones. Seem original to the machine. What happens is when the bolts are tightened down the arm binds. If I loosen them to not bind, the rotate as I move the arms. Seems the new arms have a more pronounced "belled" or "cupped" area where the bolt and washer go, the "mouth" of the bell washer opening downward so the washer should sit in it. However, these washers are far too large in diameter, about 1 3/8 or so and the recess seeming to be about 3/4 inch. The pictures of these washers on Ebay seem to be pretty large, like the ones I have.

I cannot tell if the washer is correct and the arm should bear on it, with some clearance, and the "bell" is too "tall" and I should just compress the bell on a press or something to allow the bolt to "seat" and bind the washer so the arm can rotate. If the makes sense. Or, if I should just chase down or fabricate a washer that fits in the recess and let the arm ride on that.
I don't know it matters that much as long as the arms are free to move and the friction pads ride on the pulleys when released.

 

[Hammermechanicman]

We need pics.

 

[joea99]

We need pics.

Let me change the subject a bit. I just went ahead and pressed down on the pivot point in a press and now the bolt bears down on the washer and allows the are to move freely without much play. Works for me.

Now my question is how to line up the non movable idler pulley that I had to remove to change the pivot plate. At least that's what I call it. I thought it would have a locator pin or something, but no, it is free to move through an arc.

The pic has a small red arrow, of sorts, pointing to the idler in question. Kind of figure it should be "straight back" so the drive belt is almost in a straight line from the engine drive pulley.

Yes, no, maybe so?