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Older LT1000, breaking clutch actuator cable ends.

#1

J

joea99

Got an older Craftsman LT1000 with mechanical clutch actuation. Put in a new clutch cable a few years back, but has seen very little use since then having reclaimed a JD 240 GT I used to own.
Last year decided to sell the old horse and, of course, it would not start. New coil. Started on fluid but quit. Sprayed up carb, no fix. At $200 plus of oem, went with aftermarket. 4 of them. some replaced by seller, some different sources. All ran terrible if they started at all.
Soaked the OEM (Simple Green "industrial") for a couple days and found a kit for it. Found the solendoid did not work, but the coil measured fine, so soaked the mechanical end for a few days and got the plunger to move. Reasssembled and it ran fine.
So, changed the blades, the belt and a stiff pulley. New fuel hoses, cleaned tank.
Sat for a few months and . . would not start on gas. Pulled carb and found solenoid was gummed up again. cleaned it up and flushed the carb again. Found the fuel was "turned". So flushed again and added a shutoff valve.
Nice clean ethanol free and we start right up and runs great. Even charges the battery. (yeah I changed the rectifier/regulator a while back and patched all the cooked wires).
Got to rolling around the yard and engaged the clutch. Always an arm and wrist challenge. Danged if it did not seem to cut a lot quieter than before. Oh wait, it's not rotating at all.
Yep, after all this wind, the title says it all.
This is that part I ordered via Amazon a few years ago "169676 cable clutch 42 in". It always seemed hard to operate, but it did the job. Untill it did not.
So, what can I do to get a better cable, without plastic ends maybe or adjust to take less force to engage?


#2

J

joea99

joea99 said:
Got an older Craftsman LT1000 with mechanical clutch actuation. Put in a new clutch cable a few years back, but has seen very little use since then having reclaimed a JD 240 GT I used to own.
Last year decided to sell the old horse and, of course, it would not start. New coil. Started on fluid but quit. Sprayed up carb, no fix. At $200 plus of oem, went with aftermarket. 4 of them. some replaced by seller, some different sources. All ran terrible if they started at all.
Soaked the OEM (Simple Green "industrial") for a couple days and found a kit for it. Found the solendoid did not work, but the coil measured fine, so soaked the mechanical end for a few days and got the plunger to move. Reasssembled and it ran fine.
So, changed the blades, the belt and a stiff pulley. New fuel hoses, cleaned tank.
Sat for a few months and . . would not start on gas. Pulled carb and found solenoid was gummed up again. cleaned it up and flushed the carb again. Found the fuel was "turned". So flushed again and added a shutoff valve.
Nice clean ethanol free and we start right up and runs great. Even charges the battery. (yeah I changed the rectifier/regulator a while back and patched all the cooked wires).
Got to rolling around the yard and engaged the clutch. Always an arm and wrist challenge. Danged if it did not seem to cut a lot quieter than before. Oh wait, it's not rotating at all.
Yep, after all this wind, the title says it all.
This is that part I ordered via Amazon a few years ago "169676 cable clutch 42 in". It always seemed hard to operate, but it did the job. Untill it did not.
So, what can I do to get a better cable, without plastic ends maybe or adjust to take less force to engage?
Click to expand...
Just a bump to ask if anyone has an idea why the clutch is so hard to engage? Cable too short? It only lasted maybe 5 or 10 engagements.

There does not seem to be any adjustment.

Ordered a new one, different supplier, with "tractor supply" in it's name, so maybe this will be better. Hard to believe I would have to spend $50 on an "OEM" cable for it to last.


#3

R

Rivets

Check your belt routing. Many times I’ve seen DIY guys route them wrong, putting extra tension on the belt.


#4

J

joea99

Rivets said:
Check your belt routing. Many times I’ve seen DIY guys route them wrong, putting extra tension on the belt.
Click to expand...
I'll give that a look when the new cable comes in. If I recall it pretty much only "works properly" in one layout. But, I did put in a new belt at the same time, so, could be that or misroute I guess.


#5

R

Rivets

Where did you get the belt, as the belt could be the wrong size, too short. Post numbers under the seat so we can check which OEM belt you need.


#6

J

joea99

Rivets said:
Where did you get the belt, as the belt could be the wrong size, too short. Post numbers under the seat so we can check which OEM belt you need.
Click to expand...
Amazon - "D&D PowerDrive - ORB-12827-144959-4LK950 Kevlar Replacement Belt"
The model number is 917-272061 serial 022801B002572

I see it lists as 95 inches and other belts list as 95 1/2 inches. AND, reading the Amazon reviews, I see one mentioned it being 95 and breaking the cable end. Posted AFTER I bought it years ago.


#7

R

Rivets

Belt number should be 144959 and 95.5” long. Yes, a .5” will make a difference in tension on the belt engagement.


#8

J

joea99

Rivets said:
Belt number should be 144959 and 95.5” long. Yes, a .5” will make a difference in tension on the belt engagement.
Click to expand...
Just purchased one of correct length on Ebay. Thanks for your assistance.


#9

Hammermechanicman

Hammermechanicman

The cable usually break from being hard to engage because the deck linkage is worn and binding. There is a kit to replace the the brake arms and cam plate.


#10

J

joea99

Hammermechanicman said:
The cable usually break from being hard to engage because the deck linkage is worn and binding. There is a kit to replace the the brake arms and cam plate.
Click to expand...
Thanks. The product number for my machine is not listed. Close, but not exact.
edit - But, a bit more digging shows the individual part number, once figured out, do seem to match.

The brake pads are gone and the I tried some "dry lube" on the linkages. That freed things up some. Enough to engaged without superman effort, but, it did only last a few tries as mentioned earlier.


#11

Cusser

Cusser

I've got a 2005 LT1000, 917.3888020.

The owner's manual lists two different length belts for these two, but like 1/4" difference.
160855 tractor drive belt 95” x ½”
144959 mowing blade belt 95.5” x ½”

So I use 95" x 1/2" Kevlar belts for BOTH the lawn tractor drive belt and the mower belt. Right now I'm using a 95" x 1/2" D&D Kevlar belt for the deck/mowing blades.


#12

J

joea99

Cusser said:
I've got a 2005 LT1000, 917.3888020.

The owner's manual lists two different length belts for these two, but like 1/4" difference.
160855 tractor drive belt 95” x ½”
144959 mowing blade belt 95.5” x ½”

So I use 95" x 1/2" Kevlar belts for BOTH the lawn tractor drive belt and the mower belt. Right now I'm using a 95" x 1/2" D&D Kevlar belt for the deck/mowing blades.
Click to expand...
Mine lists
140294 for drive 82 x 1/2
144959 for deck 95.5 x 1/2
That's what I loved about Sears/Craftsman. Same "model" but different product numbers and often "not quite the same".

Yours likely has a electric clutch as well.


#13

J

joea99

Perhaps someone will notice this update and respond.

Got the brake/arm kit.

Seems the part that goes under the shouldered "pivot bolt" for the brake arms are not the correct ones. Seem original to the machine. What happens is when the bolts are tightened down the arm binds. If I loosen them to not bind, the rotate as I move the arms. Seems the new arms have a more pronounced "belled" or "cupped" area where the bolt and washer go, the "mouth" of the bell washer opening downward so the washer should sit in it. However, these washers are far too large in diameter, about 1 3/8 or so and the recess seeming to be about 3/4 inch. The pictures of these washers on Ebay seem to be pretty large, like the ones I have.

I cannot tell if the washer is correct and the arm should bear on it, with some clearance, and the "bell" is too "tall" and I should just compress the bell on a press or something to allow the bolt to "seat" and bind the washer so the arm can rotate. If the makes sense. Or, if I should just chase down or fabricate a washer that fits in the recess and let the arm ride on that.
I don't know it matters that much as long as the arms are free to move and the friction pads ride on the pulleys when released.


#14

Hammermechanicman

Hammermechanicman

We need pics.


#15

J

joea99

Hammermechanicman said:
We need pics.
Click to expand...
Let me change the subject a bit. I just went ahead and pressed down on the pivot point in a press and now the bolt bears down on the washer and allows the are to move freely without much play. Works for me.

Now my question is how to line up the non movable idler pulley that I had to remove to change the pivot plate. At least that's what I call it. I thought it would have a locator pin or something, but no, it is free to move through an arc.

The pic has a small red arrow, of sorts, pointing to the idler in question. Kind of figure it should be "straight back" so the drive belt is almost in a straight line from the engine drive pulley.

Yes, no, maybe so?

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