Older LT1000, breaking clutch actuator cable ends.

[joea99]

Got an older Craftsman LT1000 with mechanical clutch actuation. Put in a new clutch cable a few years back, but has seen very little use since then having reclaimed a JD 240 GT I used to own.
Last year decided to sell the old horse and, of course, it would not start. New coil. Started on fluid but quit. Sprayed up carb, no fix. At $200 plus of oem, went with aftermarket. 4 of them. some replaced by seller, some different sources. All ran terrible if they started at all.
Soaked the OEM (Simple Green "industrial") for a couple days and found a kit for it. Found the solendoid did not work, but the coil measured fine, so soaked the mechanical end for a few days and got the plunger to move. Reasssembled and it ran fine.
So, changed the blades, the belt and a stiff pulley. New fuel hoses, cleaned tank.
Sat for a few months and . . would not start on gas. Pulled carb and found solenoid was gummed up again. cleaned it up and flushed the carb again. Found the fuel was "turned". So flushed again and added a shutoff valve.
Nice clean ethanol free and we start right up and runs great. Even charges the battery. (yeah I changed the rectifier/regulator a while back and patched all the cooked wires).
Got to rolling around the yard and engaged the clutch. Always an arm and wrist challenge. Danged if it did not seem to cut a lot quieter than before. Oh wait, it's not rotating at all.
Yep, after all this wind, the title says it all.
This is that part I ordered via Amazon a few years ago "169676 cable clutch 42 in". It always seemed hard to operate, but it did the job. Untill it did not.
So, what can I do to get a better cable, without plastic ends maybe or adjust to take less force to engage?

 

[joea99]

Got an older Craftsman LT1000 with mechanical clutch actuation. Put in a new clutch cable a few years back, but has seen very little use since then having reclaimed a JD 240 GT I used to own.
Last year decided to sell the old horse and, of course, it would not start. New coil. Started on fluid but quit. Sprayed up carb, no fix. At $200 plus of oem, went with aftermarket. 4 of them. some replaced by seller, some different sources. All ran terrible if they started at all.
Soaked the OEM (Simple Green "industrial") for a couple days and found a kit for it. Found the solendoid did not work, but the coil measured fine, so soaked the mechanical end for a few days and got the plunger to move. Reasssembled and it ran fine.
So, changed the blades, the belt and a stiff pulley. New fuel hoses, cleaned tank.
Sat for a few months and . . would not start on gas. Pulled carb and found solenoid was gummed up again. cleaned it up and flushed the carb again. Found the fuel was "turned". So flushed again and added a shutoff valve.
Nice clean ethanol free and we start right up and runs great. Even charges the battery. (yeah I changed the rectifier/regulator a while back and patched all the cooked wires).
Got to rolling around the yard and engaged the clutch. Always an arm and wrist challenge. Danged if it did not seem to cut a lot quieter than before. Oh wait, it's not rotating at all.
Yep, after all this wind, the title says it all.
This is that part I ordered via Amazon a few years ago "169676 cable clutch 42 in". It always seemed hard to operate, but it did the job. Untill it did not.
So, what can I do to get a better cable, without plastic ends maybe or adjust to take less force to engage?

Just a bump to ask if anyone has an idea why the clutch is so hard to engage? Cable too short? It only lasted maybe 5 or 10 engagements.

There does not seem to be any adjustment.

Ordered a new one, different supplier, with "tractor supply" in it's name, so maybe this will be better. Hard to believe I would have to spend $50 on an "OEM" cable for it to last.

 

[Rivets]

Check your belt routing. Many times I’ve seen DIY guys route them wrong, putting extra tension on the belt.

 

[joea99]

Check your belt routing. Many times I’ve seen DIY guys route them wrong, putting extra tension on the belt.

I'll give that a look when the new cable comes in. If I recall it pretty much only "works properly" in one layout. But, I did put in a new belt at the same time, so, could be that or misroute I guess.

 

[Rivets]

Where did you get the belt, as the belt could be the wrong size, too short. Post numbers under the seat so we can check which OEM belt you need.

 

[joea99]

Where did you get the belt, as the belt could be the wrong size, too short. Post numbers under the seat so we can check which OEM belt you need.

Amazon - "D&D PowerDrive - ORB-12827-144959-4LK950 Kevlar Replacement Belt"
The model number is 917-272061 serial 022801B002572

I see it lists as 95 inches and other belts list as 95 1/2 inches. AND, reading the Amazon reviews, I see one mentioned it being 95 and breaking the cable end. Posted AFTER I bought it years ago.

 

[Rivets]

Belt number should be 144959 and 95.5” long. Yes, a .5” will make a difference in tension on the belt engagement.

 

[joea99]

Belt number should be 144959 and 95.5” long. Yes, a .5” will make a difference in tension on the belt engagement.

Just purchased one of correct length on Ebay. Thanks for your assistance.

 

[Hammermechanicman]

The cable usually break from being hard to engage because the deck linkage is worn and binding. There is a kit to replace the the brake arms and cam plate.

Amazon.com

 

[joea99]

The cable usually break from being hard to engage because the deck linkage is worn and binding. There is a kit to replace the the brake arms and cam plate.

Amazon.com

Thanks. The product number for my machine is not listed. Close, but not exact.
edit - But, a bit more digging shows the individual part number, once figured out, do seem to match.

The brake pads are gone and the I tried some "dry lube" on the linkages. That freed things up some. Enough to engaged without superman effort, but, it did only last a few tries as mentioned earlier.