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Has a walbro carb...283707-0117-01.

Occasionally gas gets into the oil. Helps if I shut the fuel off after use.

I understand a stuck needle in the bowl can allow gas to get into the

crank case. Is that correct? thx in ad...

Hal12 said:

Has a walbro carb...283707-0117-01.

Occasionally gas gets into the oil. Helps if I shut the fuel off after use.

I understand a stuck needle in the bowl can allow gas to get into the

crank case. Is that correct? thx in ad...

Click to expand...

Clean the carb & replace the fuel lines outdoor power info

Just got it back from the mechanic. Supposedly went through the carb and cleaned out the gas tank and lines. It was running rough and
wouldn't run at all with the deck turned on. It runs fine now and I put the original carb, after cleaning, back on. Mechanic said the new one was for a newer machine. Went into the shed today and smelled gas. Found gas dripping from the breather tube. Have a new one coming. Otherwise I should be good to go. I may pull the carb off
and put the float and needle valve from the new one on.
This is the new one the mechanic said was not meant for my engine.

Rule of thumb
A quality product will have the makers name and hopefully a serial number on it.
A garbage product will have no identifing markings so you don't know who made it
A pirate aftermarket part will have obvious marks where the original "walbro" "ruXing" "runsruff" was ground out of the moulds that the pirate company bought as scrap metal from the original parts maker .
Now I can write all sorts of BS about how good I am and how much I know and how good the product is and none of it is worth the electriclty used to display it on the screen
The current price of die casting zinc is $ 4.50 Kg and that is a world price so the factory in China that made the carb has to pay that price just for the zinc.
Then it has to be melted, cast, machined & assembled
Finally shipped
Ammozone takes around $ 3 to $ 10 per sale depending upon the volume & weather Ammozone did the warehousing & despatching.
So the vendor gets say $ 15 to $ 8 for it , assuming they are only making a 30% general retail mark up that means it cost them $ 10 to $ 6 delivered & taxed
The factory in China has to be making a profit and even in China that has to be at least 20% or they won't be there next year
So working back that makes them in the order of $ 8 to $ 3.50 at the factory gate cost price, ignoring packaging costs.
So if you think you are going to get a high quality carb for $ 18 then you best get cracking with your letter to Santa Clause because Christmas is coming
If it looks too cheap to be true is usually is not true
Now they could have been surplus sold at a knock down cost price or they could be scrap metal

690577 Seat and 231855S needle will fix the leaking carb.

So a leaking carb needle/seat overflows the bowl allowing gas into the
air inlet, through the breather tube into the crankcase. Is that the situation?

Nope
The overflow for the float bowl is it hole in the flange of the carb on the engine side
Fuel dribbles out of that hole then runs down the manifold ( EPA REGULATION ) and into the engine .
From there it enters the cylinder , passes the rings & then to the sump .

hlw49 said:

690577 Seat and 231855S needle will fix the leaking carb.

Click to expand...

Received them both. What's the easiest way to remove and install the seat? tia

Drywall screw and pliers. Be gentle as you go. Only soft aluminum zinc pot metal.

Install, a drill bit with the dull end down forcing the seat home. Or a small bolt.....

The way I like to do it is to take a shoulder bolt like on the Kohler courage and grind the thread end where it won't bottom out in the seat and the sides so it will fit in the seat and tap it in with it. But what ever works for you.

So I need to use a releasing agent? wd 40?

Hal12 said:

So I need to use a releasing agent? wd 40?

Click to expand...

WTF? For what? Getting the seat out of the carb?

WD-40 is basically a solvent with a small amount of oil.

Boil clean the carb. Pull it from the hot water. See if the seat comes out easier from the heat.

I made a puller to pull them out with. I work at a hardware store and have a lot of resources to make things like that. I took a bushing that would fit over the seat and took a tap that would thread the inside of the old seat. Then get a screw that is long enough that you can screw into the old seat and stick up above the seat. Thread a nut over it and put a washer between the seat and the nut and pull it out. Then you always have one to use.

slomo said:

WTF? For what? Getting the seat out of the carb?

WD-40 is basically a solvent with a small amount of oil.

Boil clean the carb. Pull it from the hot water. See if the seat comes out easier from the heat.

Click to expand...

WD40 water dispersant 40th formula. Not a good lubricant.

The 'seat' in the Briggs and Stratton is solid with a hole in it. I believe I can get it out ok. Just
wanted to see what others would do.

Hal12 said:

The 'seat' in the Briggs and Stratton is solid with a hole in it. I believe I can get it out ok. Just
wanted to see what others would do.

View attachment 61323

Click to expand...

Taryl uses a self tapper with a nut on it. Screw in the self tapper locking it to the seat. Turn the nut to pull the seat out. "There's your dinner".

hlw49 said:

WD40 water dispersant 40th formula. Not a good lubricant.

Click to expand...

Agree but it's better than nothing I guess.

Was their 40th attempt at getting it right.

Yeah I've some small self tappers with hex head and captive washer. I think I've had it out before when I put a new

kit in it. Seems like it then had a small "o" ring instead of the 61323.