Oil???

SamB

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Just my 2 cents:
I've had good luck with Briggs & Stratton brand 32 oz 5W30 100% Synthetic Engine Oil. I added after 4hr break-in with our 'then new' walk behind 2017 Honda mower. Even after full season of mowing (~20hrs runtime) my oil still looks clean when changing it out today. Always use air cooled engine oil to ensure it has extra zinc (better load cushioning) and full detergent package for better cleaning protection. Automotive grade oil has zero zinc because it will load-up/ruin catalytic converters. Amaz0n is only place where I can find this oil since retailers don't want mower engines lasting forever - lol.

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So...is this B&S oil a re-labeled oil made by a major oil maker such as what I have been using? I've been using Shell Rotella diesel in my non-cat sportscar and also for my small engines. Is this oil formulated for Briggs and to their specs?
 

Jetfan2207

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I have a toro recycler with the Kohler engine and have been using Napa’s straight 30 weight oil for the last 5 years and never had an issue with end of season oil changes. Use the weight and rating the manual suggest for the temp range you have and change it as recommended. I put less than 25 hours on the mower per season so full synthetic would be a waste of money for me.
 

CaptFerd

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10w30 with filter sae 30 without filter. Use what you can afford. Name Brands are an over pricing gimmick. More important than what oil you choose is Make sure you got enough of it.
 

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Scrubcadet10

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So...is this B&S oil a re-labeled oil made by a major oil maker such as what I have been using? I've been using Shell Rotella diesel in my non-cat sportscar and also for my small engines. Is this oil formulated for Briggs and to their specs?
Shell rotella exceeds requirements for kawasaki engines. From what i can tell, Olympic makes or used to make briggs oil, http://olympicoil.us/
It's probably changed over the years to the lowest $$
 

Robo_iii

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So...is this B&S oil a re-labeled oil made by a major oil maker such as what I have been using? I've been using Shell Rotella diesel in my non-cat sportscar and also for my small engines. Is this oil formulated for Briggs and to their specs?
I'm sure it' relabeled stuff. It's formulated mostly for severe applications like snowblowers and stuff. I've been using since 2017 with zero issues. I never have to add oil during mow season since break-in. Good enough for me. Says Pinnacle Oil Holdings, LLC www.pinnacleoil.com on bottle.
 
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oneoldsap

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All oil has Zinc in it . The only time extra zinc is need is for break in ! I run synthetic oil in all my engines , except Diesels , they get Rotella , which is a blend .
 

Robo_iii

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All oil has Zinc in it . The only time extra zinc is need is for break in ! I run synthetic oil in all my engines , except Diesels , they get Rotella , which is a blend .
Why was zinc removed from motor oil?
It also provides corrosion and oxidation protection. However, because the zinc and phosphorus found in ZDDP can negatively affect catalytic converters, it has been phased out of motor oil formulations in recent years. Article dated Aug 25, 2017.

In old days, nickel was used instead in mostly pre 1975 cars and bikes but zinc is cheaper nowadays... I'm antique Harley rider from way back.
 
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ken2

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The manual for my mower stated to use 10-30 synthetic oil. I'm using Quaker State 10-30. Using the same oil in my bad Boy mower.
 

VRR.DYNDNS>BIZ

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To know for sure, uncap a new bottle and send a sample for analysis.
Kohler 10w30 Synthetic Blend has a good bit of zinc.
I have serviced small engines for 55 years. NEVER found an engine damaged from any of the recommended oils in this conversations as long as the level was proper. An oil class I attended informed me that the US regulations allow anyone to call it synthetic even if it is not and the only way to know if it really is synthetic is by the price. It is like the food that can be called what it is not. So much for the Government doing the right thing for the people. As engineering on cars has moved forward, they do have specific desires but even some of that is not for engine life, it is for milage. This level of design has not reached small engines with the exceptions of 2 cycle, hand held 4 cycle, and EFI engines and propane powered or natural gas where there are some legitimate requirements.
 
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