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Oil???

#1

D

deriter

My neighbor and I were talking about lawn mowers. We both have Toro Recyclers and I said I was going to have to tune up and change oil. I said I was going to put in 10-30 synthetic oil. He said you should use Toro's oil because it has added zinc for better wear on engine components. I was wondering what you folks think. Is this right or hype? And is 10-30 ok or should I use straight 30 sae?


#2

Scrubcadet10

Scrubcadet10

I'm not sure about Toro's oil, But Kinetix,& K-Tech are high in zinc, K-tech is a synthetic blend. Its very beneficial for Flat tappet cam engines, like your mower. I use SAE30.


#3

R

Rivets

You can pay the extra money for what ever oil you prefer, but as a Toro tech I’ve used only a good brand of automotive oil for the last 50 years, with no problems. Toro used SAE30 until 2015, then switched to SAE10W-30 since then.


#4

wingless

wingless

Never a bad practice to follow the Owner's Manual.

For my walk behind it says: SAE 30 or SAE 10W-30, API SJ or higher.


#5

M

MParr

Plain old SAE30 HD is all that’s needed.


#6

R

Rivets

Not with the Loncin engines. Manual calls for 10W-30.


#7

D

deriter

The thing I am really wanting to figure out is the zinc additive. Supposedly the Toro brand oil has more zinc added. Now I know Toro doesn't make oil and they just put their label on someone elses oil, but I don't know which one it is they use or again, is it just hype to get you to buy their label oil or what? So is oil, oil, or is there a huge difference between them?


#8

M

MParr

deriter said:
The thing I am really wanting to figure out is the zinc additive. Supposedly the Toro brand oil has more zinc added. Now I know Toro doesn't make oil and they just put their label on someone elses oil, but I don't know which one it is they use or again, is it just hype to get you to buy their label oil or what? So is oil, oil, or is there a huge difference between them?
Click to expand...
To know for sure, uncap a new bottle and send a sample for analysis.
Kohler 10w30 Synthetic Blend has a good bit of zinc.


#9

M

MParr

If you insist on using a high zinc 10W30, then Valvoline VR1 is a good choice.

US_Val_VR1Mono_MO_EN.pdf - Docusign CLM

sharena21.springcm.com sharena21.springcm.com


#10

Scrubcadet10

Scrubcadet10

All i use now is Kinetix and K-tech, and rotella is my personal choice, Kinetix and KTECH for others.... I actually think they're both bottled by CITGO, (not the rotella)
I know they're formulated to withstand the temperature needs of an Air Cooled engine, and have anti wear additives that most modern auto oils will not due to Environmental regs.


#11

sgkent

sgkent

Brad Penn or Penn Grade are both high in zinc for flat tappet engines. Mobile One is a good oil too.


#12

B

bertsmobile1

deriter said:
The thing I am really wanting to figure out is the zinc additive. Supposedly the Toro brand oil has more zinc added. Now I know Toro doesn't make oil and they just put their label on someone elses oil, but I don't know which one it is they use or again, is it just hype to get you to buy their label oil or what? So is oil, oil, or is there a huge difference between them?
Click to expand...
You are conflaiting mower engines with automotive engines .
What is vital for the one is not necessary for the other
High zinc is a perfect example
Not needed in a mower engine because the scuffing forces are sobstantially lower because the valve springs are substantially softer and the engine runs substantially slower


#13

R

rustycat

deriter said:
My neighbor and I were talking about lawn mowers. We both have Toro Recyclers and I said I was going to have to tune up and change oil. I said I was going to put in 10-30 synthetic oil. He said you should use Toro's oil because it has added zinc for better wear on engine components. I was wondering what you folks think. Is this right or hype? And is 10-30 ok or should I use straight 30 sae?
Click to expand...
It depends on what engine brand you have. B/S use sae 30 and Kohler and Honda use sae 10w30. Regular motor oil is just fine as your going to change it every season.


#14

J

jromeo1

deriter said:
My neighbor and I were talking about lawn mowers. We both have Toro Recyclers and I said I was going to have to tune up and change oil. I said I was going to put in 10-30 synthetic oil. He said you should use Toro's oil because it has added zinc for better wear on engine components. I was wondering what you folks think. Is this right or hype? And is 10-30 ok or should I use straight 30 sae?
Click to expand...
It doesn't have to be Toro's oil, but it SHOULD be an oil designed for small engines. Automobile oil has an additive package that DOES NOT contain zinc because of the cat converter damage that would occur if zinc were in the oil. Small engines need the protection of zinc due to the high compression nature of these engines. They also run hotter, so the additive package in small engine oil is also designed to protect against the excessive heat that small engines generate. And like I said, you should be good to go with a any good quality small engine oil. You don't have to use a synthetic oil, but I highly recommend it. Synthetic oil maintains its viscosity longer than conventional (naturally high Viscosity Index), and is generally slipperier than conventional, which results in a cooler running engine.


#15

J

jromeo1

bertsmobile1 said:
You are conflaiting mower engines with automotive engines .
What is vital for the one is not necessary for the other
High zinc is a perfect example
Not needed in a mower engine because the scuffing forces are sobstantially lower because the valve springs are substantially softer and the engine runs substantially slower
Click to expand...
That is not quite correct. Compared to liquid-cooled automobile engines, small engines run hotter, operate under constant load, generate more oil-damaging contaminants, suffer from neglected maintenance, and are exposed to dirt, rain, and other extremes. Simply put, they are tougher on oil than most people think. Automobile oils are designed with fuel economy in mind, not durability.


#16

G

Gord Baker

RTFM


#17

G

Gord Baker

jromeo1 said:
That is not quite correct. Compared to liquid-cooled automobile engines, small engines run hotter, operate under constant load, generate more oil-damaging contaminants, suffer from neglected maintenance, and are exposed to dirt, rain, and other extremes. Simply put, they are tougher on oil than most people think. Automobile oils are designed with fuel economy in mind, not durability.
Click to expand...
Well Said!


#18

R

Ranamow

I have uses Castrol 10w30 in all types of small engines for years with no problems.


#19

R

Robo_iii

Just my 2 cents:
I've had good luck with Briggs & Stratton brand 32 oz 5W30 100% Synthetic Engine Oil. I added after 4hr break-in with our 'then new' walk behind 2017 Honda mower. Even after full season of mowing (~20hrs runtime) my oil still looks clean when changing it out today. Always use air cooled engine oil to ensure it has extra zinc (better load cushioning) and full detergent package for better cleaning protection. Automotive grade oil has zero zinc because it will load-up/ruin catalytic converters. Amaz0n is only place where I can find this oil since retailers don't want mower engines lasting forever - lol.

1300304.jpg


#20

B

biggertv

SAE30HD In My Experience, Multi Weight oil increases oil Consumption in hot Texas Weather. Mowing is Dirty, and engines are low to the ground. Change oil Often, sooner than Recommended.


#21

R

Robo_iii

Gord Baker said:
Well Said!
Click to expand...
Spot on!


#22

S

SamB

Robo_iii said:
Just my 2 cents:
I've had good luck with Briggs & Stratton brand 32 oz 5W30 100% Synthetic Engine Oil. I added after 4hr break-in with our 'then new' walk behind 2017 Honda mower. Even after full season of mowing (~20hrs runtime) my oil still looks clean when changing it out today. Always use air cooled engine oil to ensure it has extra zinc (better load cushioning) and full detergent package for better cleaning protection. Automotive grade oil has zero zinc because it will load-up/ruin catalytic converters. Amaz0n is only place where I can find this oil since retailers don't want mower engines lasting forever - lol.

View attachment 59852
Click to expand...
So...is this B&S oil a re-labeled oil made by a major oil maker such as what I have been using? I've been using Shell Rotella diesel in my non-cat sportscar and also for my small engines. Is this oil formulated for Briggs and to their specs?


#23

J

Jetfan2207

I have a toro recycler with the Kohler engine and have been using Napa’s straight 30 weight oil for the last 5 years and never had an issue with end of season oil changes. Use the weight and rating the manual suggest for the temp range you have and change it as recommended. I put less than 25 hours on the mower per season so full synthetic would be a waste of money for me.


#24

C

CaptFerd

10w30 with filter sae 30 without filter. Use what you can afford. Name Brands are an over pricing gimmick. More important than what oil you choose is Make sure you got enough of it.

Attachments





#25

Scrubcadet10

Scrubcadet10

SamB said:
So...is this B&S oil a re-labeled oil made by a major oil maker such as what I have been using? I've been using Shell Rotella diesel in my non-cat sportscar and also for my small engines. Is this oil formulated for Briggs and to their specs?
Click to expand...
Shell rotella exceeds requirements for kawasaki engines. From what i can tell, Olympic makes or used to make briggs oil, http://olympicoil.us/
It's probably changed over the years to the lowest $$


#26

R

Robo_iii

SamB said:
So...is this B&S oil a re-labeled oil made by a major oil maker such as what I have been using? I've been using Shell Rotella diesel in my non-cat sportscar and also for my small engines. Is this oil formulated for Briggs and to their specs?
Click to expand...
I'm sure it' relabeled stuff. It's formulated mostly for severe applications like snowblowers and stuff. I've been using since 2017 with zero issues. I never have to add oil during mow season since break-in. Good enough for me. Says Pinnacle Oil Holdings, LLC www.pinnacleoil.com on bottle.


#27

O

oneoldsap

All oil has Zinc in it . The only time extra zinc is need is for break in ! I run synthetic oil in all my engines , except Diesels , they get Rotella , which is a blend .


#28

R

Robo_iii

oneoldsap said:
All oil has Zinc in it . The only time extra zinc is need is for break in ! I run synthetic oil in all my engines , except Diesels , they get Rotella , which is a blend .
Click to expand...
Why was zinc removed from motor oil?
It also provides corrosion and oxidation protection. However, because the zinc and phosphorus found in ZDDP can negatively affect catalytic converters, it has been phased out of motor oil formulations in recent years. Article dated Aug 25, 2017.

In old days, nickel was used instead in mostly pre 1975 cars and bikes but zinc is cheaper nowadays... I'm antique Harley rider from way back.


#29

K

ken2

The manual for my mower stated to use 10-30 synthetic oil. I'm using Quaker State 10-30. Using the same oil in my bad Boy mower.


#30

VRR.DYNDNS>BIZ

VRR.DYNDNS>BIZ

MParr said:
To know for sure, uncap a new bottle and send a sample for analysis.
Kohler 10w30 Synthetic Blend has a good bit of zinc.
Click to expand...
I have serviced small engines for 55 years. NEVER found an engine damaged from any of the recommended oils in this conversations as long as the level was proper. An oil class I attended informed me that the US regulations allow anyone to call it synthetic even if it is not and the only way to know if it really is synthetic is by the price. It is like the food that can be called what it is not. So much for the Government doing the right thing for the people. As engineering on cars has moved forward, they do have specific desires but even some of that is not for engine life, it is for milage. This level of design has not reached small engines with the exceptions of 2 cycle, hand held 4 cycle, and EFI engines and propane powered or natural gas where there are some legitimate requirements.


#31

B

bertsmobile1

jromeo1 said:
That is not quite correct. Compared to liquid-cooled automobile engines, small engines run hotter, operate under constant load, generate more oil-damaging contaminants, suffer from neglected maintenance, and are exposed to dirt, rain, and other extremes. Simply put, they are tougher on oil than most people think. Automobile oils are designed with fuel economy in mind, not durability.
Click to expand...
All true sort of but that does not change the fact that zinc is not needed for mower engines because the scuffing forces are just not there
I can compress a B & S valve spring a small amount between my finger & thumb
I can not do that on my BSA engine , and it has 2 valve springs per valve and when new used plain oil with no zinc
The zinc thing is another case where the advertisers use the tiny bit of knowledge that most have about oil to confuse the issue to convince you to buy a product that you do not need .
IT is the Alaskan Elephant Repellant approach .
The most important thing with mower oils is the corrosion inhibitors because the engines sit around for so long
Next most important is the detergents to prevent the contaminants forming a sludge paste in the sump while it is sitting doing nothing .
Zinc was not important in any engines other than diesels till the 90's when start up emissions became law and oils had to be made way too thin so there was almost no viscous drag on the engine allowing the very first piston to do a full cycle to fire .

Mower engines are very very very very very very very low tech and very lightly strained .
The fact that they use cast con rods running directly on the big end journal should be enough for most .
But if you want some more convincing then look at the torque : cc ratio of a mower engine compared to an equivalent HP or capacity air cooled motorcycle engine.
That will show just how lazy these engines are

As for subject to misuse & abuse , yes 100% on the money there .
And this is the biggest reason why I try to get my customers to use plain mower oil & not the very expensive synthetic oil so they will change it every season on the final mow of the season .
I play with vintage motorcycles & when synthetics came out there was a rash of engine failures with bikes where the owners had switched to synthetics
Now there is nothing wrong with the oil as such but the oil holes, galleries and wells are designed for older higher viscosity oils so things like cams never got enough oil ( fixed by going up an index or two ) but the main problem was leaving it in there for way too long because the recommended oil change intervals on the bottle were 4 times longer than the engine was designed for .


#32

B

bertsmobile1

The single most important thing about oil for mowers is the frequency of changing
The rest is of marginal importance
I am yet to check but perhaps mower engines designed for synthetics are made to tighter tollerances but I doubt it because higher precision cost a lot more on an exponential curve and mower engines are all made to a price which is why almost none of them use rolling element bearings and run directly on the crankcase casting .
A mower oil will be better than a air cooled motorcycle oil which would be better than a water cooled car oil .
But none of them are any good if left in there for too long
Cheap oil changes every season without fail will be better for your engine than very expensive oil left in there for 5 seasons .
If you have several vehicles that use the same grade of oil then run that if it makes your life simplier .
If you also blow snow then it is worth while changing the oil twice a year between seasons & running a much lighter snow grade oil in winter .


#33

D

deriter

I guess I am failing on at least one item and that is changing the oil at the end of the season. It does make sense to take out the dirty oil and put in fresh oil to store over the winter. I do believe it is very important to change the oil out with the seasons. I will keep that in mind this fall. And the only reason I use multigrade oil is for easier starting in the fall when the temps drop.
Now for one more question, manual says 10w-30. Does my mower know the difference between 10w-30 and 15w-40? I mean is there a difference that I should be considering. Getting ready to change the oil out, new air filter, and maybe a spark plug. I am also going to install an hour meter just to see how much time is put on the mower.
Feel like I have be caged up all winter and anxious to get out and mow the lawn. lol


#34

B

bertsmobile1

the 15 will be a tiny bit harder to pull start
There is really only 2 reasons for multigrade oils being developed
1) using a cheaper lighter grade of oil and / or second or third splits so more saleable product per barrel of oil
2) easier starting due to lower amount of viscious friction when cranking .
Some time around 1990 start up emissions became regulated
If you think back, your old car would crank for 30 second or so while it built up sufficient speed to start
Your 2020 car starts the instant you touch the starter & spins at full cranking speed strait away.
Low viscosity oils make this possible
There are other reasons but these were the drivers because the auto industry does nothing till new regulations force a change
Otherwise it is just bigger engines every year .

While oils are slippery, they all have drag and the higher the viscosity number the greater the amount of drag
SO more engine power is gobbled up to defeat this drag so it is not available to cut grass .


#35

M

MParr

VRR.DYNDNS>BIZ said:
I have serviced small engines for 55 years. NEVER found an engine damaged from any of the recommended oils in this conversations as long as the level was proper. An oil class I attended informed me that the US regulations allow anyone to call it synthetic even if it is not and the only way to know if it really is synthetic is by the price. It is like the food that can be called what it is not. So much for the Government doing the right thing for the people. As engineering on cars has moved forward, they do have specific desires but even some of that is not for engine life, it is for milage. This level of design has not reached small engines with the exceptions of 2 cycle, hand held 4 cycle, and EFI engines and propane powered or natural gas where there are some legitimate requirements.
Click to expand...
For me personally, I don’t buy a dedicated small engine oil. Living in the south, a minimum of 10W40 for my V-Twin. I like 15W40 HDEO and that’s what I buy. For single cylinder four strokes, a SAE 30 HD is all that’s needed. The important thing is keeping it topped up and the oil and filter changed at the recommended intervals. And, don’t forget maintaining the air filter as required.


#36

A

AtRo Racing

deriter said:
My neighbor and I were talking about lawn mowers. We both have Toro Recyclers and I said I was going to have to tune up and change oil. I said I was going to put in 10-30 synthetic oil. He said you should use Toro's oil because it has added zinc for better wear on engine components. I was wondering what you folks think. Is this right or hype? And is 10-30 ok or should I use straight 30My mm
Click to expand...


#37

A

AtRo Racing

deriter said:
My neighbor and I were talking about lawn mowers. We both have Toro Recyclers and I said I was going to have to tune up and change oil. I said I was going to put in 10-30 synthetic oil. He said you should use Toro's oil because it has added zinc for better wear on engine components. I was wondering what you folks think. Is this right or hype? And is 10-30 ok or should I use straight 30 sae?
Click to expand...
My shop has repaired over a 1000 lawnmowers, Tractors, and miscellaneous Outdoor Power Equipment a year for the last 50 years. We use nothing but SHELL ROTELLA T-4 15W-40 OIL in all 4- Cycle engimes without any failures. Robbie


#38

B

Bellcrank

Thoughts to ponder about motor oil

“Without promotion, something terrible happens... nothing!”
-- P. T. Barnum


#39

R

Rivets

AtRo in my part of the country 15W-40 is way to high viscosity for our cold weather.


#40

D

deriter

Well, not to beat a dead horse, but my thinking on the synthetic oil was that I heard that synthetic takes the heat better and that it holds up better than regular oil. So I was thinking to get longer life out of the mower, then use synthetic. I see maybe I have been over thinking this?
Thank you all for you comments and info.


#41

R

Robo_iii

SamB said:
So...is this B&S oil a re-labeled oil made by a major oil maker such as what I have been using? I've been using Shell Rotella diesel in my non-cat sportscar and also for my small engines. Is this oil formulated for Briggs and to their specs?
Click to expand...
I'm sure it' relabeled stuff. It's formulated mostly for severe applications like snowblowers and stuff. I've been using since 2017 with zero issues. I never have to add oil during mow season since break-in. Good enough for me.
deriter said:
Well, not to beat a dead horse, but my thinking on the synthetic oil was that I heard that synthetic takes the heat better and that it holds up better than regular oil. So I was thinking to get longer life out of the mower, then use synthetic. I see maybe I have been over thinking this?
Thank you all for you comments and info.
Click to expand...
Main point would be use what oil is available in your budget and change annually or every 20hrs (unless mower manufacture state less run time).

Another hot topic for keeping motor trouble free is whether to use ethanol-free gas year round or last fill of the season?
To find your nearest ethanol-free station by state:
https://www.pure-gas.org




.


#42

sgkent

sgkent

please get back to me when this thread on oil gets to 20,419 posts like they do in every other forum I belong to when oil is discussed.


#43

D

deriter

Oh well sgkent, but I still do appreciate all the comments and opinions. It has been quite interesting to me and gave me more ways to consider what to use and when. Thanks to all who responded.


#44

B

bertsmobile1

sgkent said:
please get back to me when this thread on oil gets to 20,419 posts like they do in every other forum I belong to when oil is discussed.
Click to expand...
Yes I love oil threads.
Oil is all about the physics & chemistry of the oil at a molecular level
If you don't understand molecular physics & chemistry then all that all you are doing is passing on annedotes based on your very limited personal experience or repeating marketing bumph.
Which unless you were directly involved in the lubrication industry is not particularly relevent ( and that includes me )
And they are a lot more complicated than most think
Yet without any understanding of the basics every one some how thinks they are experts .
Down here mechanics get 1 semister, that is 2 hours a week for 13 weeks to cover greases , oils & coolants.
Way too short & way too superficial , I taught it from time to time when the regular teacher was not available
Some of the stuff, like gear pumps chop up the long molecules in multigrade oils , or multigrades grades get thicker as they get hotter would be considered a joke routine at any physics conference yet there are people who will argue they are true till their final breath .
And this was in the days when synthetics were only used in defence applications because they were so expensive so were not included in the training.
Then you get the clots who can not understand that what is used on a race track does not automatically translate to mowers in fact it is totally irrelevent as the only similarities is they both have a spark plug & burn a hydrocarbon under pressure .
The comments about zinc here shows almost no one understands why the zinc was added ( it replaced sulphur originally ) and what are the criteria that require zinc .


#45

B

bertsmobile1

deriter said:
Oh well sgkent, but I still do appreciate all the comments and opinions. It has been quite interesting to me and gave me more ways to consider what to use and when. Thanks to all who responded.
Click to expand...
It is pretty simple
Check the oil every time you use the mower
Keep it to the max mark
Change it every season at the end of the season
Don't operate vertical shaft engines beyond their tilt limit lest the oil pick up ends up above the oil level
Use an oil of appropriate viscosity for the environment you are in
IN A MOWER all the rest makes no significant difference anywhere apart from between your ears .


#46

R

Robo_iii

SamB said:
So...is this B&S oil a re-labeled oil made by a major oil maker such as what I have been using? I've been using Shell Rotella diesel in my non-cat sportscar and also for my small engines. Is this oil formulated for Briggs and to their specs?
Click to expand...
I'm sure it' relabeled stuff. It's formulated mostly for severe applications like snowblowers and stuff. I've been using since 2017 with zero issues. I never have to add oil during mow season since break-in. Good enough for me.
deriter said:
Well, not to beat a dead horse, but my thinking on the synthetic oil was that I heard that synthetic takes the heat better and that it holds up better than regular oil. So I was thinking to get longer life out of the mower, then use synthetic. I see maybe I have been over thinking this?
Thank you all for you comments and info.
Click to expand...
Main point would be use what oil is available in your budget and change it annually or every 20hrs (unless mower manufacture state less run time).

Another hot topic for keeping motor trouble free is whether to use non-ethanol gas year round or last fill of the season? To find your nearest non-ethanol station by state:
https://www.pure-gas.org




.
bertsmobile1 said:
Yes I love oil threads.
Oil is all about the physics & chemistry of the oil at a molecular level
If you don't understand molecular physics & chemistry then all that all you are doing is passing on annedotes based on your very limited personal experience or repeating marketing bumph.
Which unless you were directly involved in the lubrication industry is not particularly relevent ( and that includes me )
And they are a lot more complicated than most think
Yet without any understanding of the basics every one some how thinks they are experts .
Down here mechanics get 1 semister, that is 2 hours a week for 13 weeks to cover greases , oils & coolants.
Way too short & way too superficial , I taught it from time to time when the regular teacher was not available
Some of the stuff, like gear pumps chop up the long molecules in multigrade oils , or multigrades grades get thicker as they get hotter would be considered a joke routine at any physics conference yet there are people who will argue they are true till their final breath .
And this was in the days when synthetics were only used in defence applications because they were so expensive so were not included in the training.
Then you get the clots who can not understand that what is used on a race track does not automatically translate to mowers in fact it is totally irrelevent as the only similarities is they both have a spark plug & burn a hydrocarbon under pressure .
The comments about zinc here shows almost no one understands why the zinc was added ( it replaced sulphur originally ) and what are the criteria that require zinc .
Click to expand...
All true. I like having zinc in my 2017 GCV Honda motor since they now incorporate single cam lobe made out of plastic.

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#47

S

slomo

I use non zinc oil. Had to go out last night and start all of my OPE. Yup all ran perfect. Guess zinc is a marketing gimmick that is not necessary. Had me worried a bit.


#48

E

enigma-2

Getting back to the OP's question, (and I'm the first to admit that I know next to nothing about it), the purpose of zinc in oil is to work as an anti oxidant. (It helps prevent the oil from breaking down and extends its useful life).


#49

S

slomo

enigma-2 said:
Getting back to the OP's question, (and I'm the first to admit that I know next to nothing about it), the purpose of zinc in oil is to work as an anti oxidant. (It helps prevent the oil from breaking down and extends its useful life).
Click to expand...
So now I need to change it every week? Month?

Thought zinc was anti wear?

Now I'm tripping out. Do I need zinc oil or not?


#50

R

Rivets

Only if you like spending money and don’t follow normal maintenance schedules.


#51

S

SamB

Rivets said:
Only if you like spending money and don’t follow normal maintenance schedules.
Click to expand...
$15.00 a gallon for the T6 Shell. Add another $10.00 for the full synthetic. I change according to Briggs recommendations, but usually sooner.


#52

S

slomo

Wish SAE 30W was made in a real full synthetic.


#53

D

deriter

I wish they made a synthetic sae 30w also.


#54

Scrubcadet10

Scrubcadet10

slomo said:
Wish SAE 30W was made in a real full synthetic.
Click to expand...
Royal Purple does


#55

S

SamB

Scrubcadet10 said:
Royal Purple does
Click to expand...
Royal Purple straight 30w is over $13.00 a quart here an my local NAPA store Is there any real advantage of straight weight oil over the 15w40 I'm using now?


#56

Scrubcadet10

Scrubcadet10

SamB said:
Royal Purple straight 30w is over $13.00 a quart here an my local NAPA store! Wow! Is there any real advantage of straight weight oil over the 15w40 I'm using now?
Click to expand...
10.95 a qt on amazon..... Wow


#57

S

SamB

Scrubcadet10 said:
10.95 a qt on amazon..... Wow
Click to expand...

Scrubcadet10 said:
10.95 a qt on amazon..... Wow
Click to expand...
Sorry...I'll edit out my surprise at that price per quart. I have
Prime, but still seems like a lot of $$$ to pour into a Briggs,though.
This is for 4 quarts,my price.Untitled.jpg


#58

Scrubcadet10

Scrubcadet10

SamB said:
Sorry...I'll edit out my surprise at that price per quart. I have
Prime, but still seems like a lot of $$$ to pour into a Briggs,though.
Click to expand...
Yeah, especially when my last engine ran on their B&S SAE30 for 20 years.


#59

S

SamB

Scrubcadet10 said:
Yeah, especially when my last engine ran on their B&S SAE30 for 20 years.
Click to expand...
My local Lowes has this.48 Oz forB&S 30 w 48oz.jpg $8.49+tx.
Just the right amount for one full oil change.


#60

B

bertsmobile1

SamB said:
Royal Purple straight 30w is over $13.00 a quart here an my local NAPA store! Wow! Is there any real advantage of straight weight oil over the 15w40 I'm using now?
Click to expand...
Short answer is NO
In reality the only real advantage is being thicker when cold it is less likely to leak out of seals & gaskets when cold
So for really old engines with oil slingers & no seals it does make a difference
Otherwise no reason to use strait 30 other than the price


#61

S

slomo

Scrubcadet10 said:
Royal Purple does
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I said a real true synthetic. As in Redline ect......

Purple wonder, Mobile 1 and such are not real true synthetics. Probably group 3 at best with one minor additive that is synthetic.


#62

E

enigma-2

So you're saying that Mobile One is the best oil?

(Slow day, couldn't resist)


#63

Scrubcadet10

Scrubcadet10

slomo said:
I said a real true synthetic. As in Redline ect......

Purple wonder, Mobile 1 and such are not real true synthetics. Probably group 3 at best with one minor additive that is synthetic.
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BuT ThE RaCe cAr DrIVers UsE It....
;) :ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:


#64

sgkent

sgkent

I still occasionally work on vintage engines. Most oils today are designed for today's engines. Many things that were used in yesterday's engines had to come out of the oil because they contaminated catalytic converters. A well known cam grinder for vintage engines I know will recommend using Mobil One if a vintage oil is not available.


#65

S

slomo

enigma-2 said:
So you're saying that Mobile One is the best oil?

(Slow day, couldn't resist)
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A good solid oil, yes. A true synthetic nope. Stuff costs like $22 bucks a gallon at walmart.


#66

R

Robo_iii

Most grocery store Olive Oils are synthetic - just saying.


#67

S

slomo

Robo_iii said:
Most grocery store Olive Oils are synthetic - just saying.
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Hope this was a comedic public service announcement. I'd have to agree with the info. Most EVOO's are blended corn oil to cut cost.


#68

R

Robo_iii

Yep... just lightening up focus on synthetics and whatnot's. Good bake-test on any oils/blends (when dealing w/ air cooled small engines) would be to heat it up 180 degrees for 1 hour and see if dark carbon quickly builds up.



.
slomo said:
Hope this was a comedic public service announcement. I'd have to agree with the info. Most EVOO's are blended corn oil to cut cost.
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