Oil Leak

[Jefe]

I managed to pull the flywheel off with a home-made puller using a 2x4. I wouldn't recommend this because the middle bolt did damage a few threads on the shaft, but I was able to file the damaged threads so I can get the nut to go back on.

The breather was very brittle and would not come off without breaking so I have a new breather assembly on order
Parts Diagram - Breather is #7

My other question is:
Before I started I noticed the engine block got VERY hot once it was warmed up. Too hot to touch for more than a split-second. Is this normal?

 

[KennyV]

Air cooled engines dump the heat everywhere... so yes it is going to be HOT...
:smile:KennyV

 

[originalswampfox]

Hey jefe!! I like a man who uses a 2x4 and a hammer. If you are not going to be working on engines fairly often don't spend more on tools than the mower is worth. Back in rural SC in the 50's and 60's we said "don't force it get a bigger hammer".

 

[Jefe]

Just an update:

Replacing the breather seemed to solve the oil leak problem.

The plastic on the old breather was very brittle and I couldn't remove it without breaking it. The new one was much more supple and after replacing it the leak stopped. So far, so good.

Also, I wouldn't recommend using a 2x4 for a puller. It distorted the top of the shaft, fortunately not bad enough to ruin the threads, but it was close. If I didn't want to buy the puller, next time I'd make it out of a small piece of maybe 1/4" steel plate (should be cheap). Also I would use a grinder to taper the middle bolt of the puller so it would fit into the end of the shaft and stay put. With the 2x4, there was enough play that the center bolt on the puller didn't stay perfectly centered on the shaft. The pressure applied by the puller was off center and caused the shaft to deform.

 

[reddragon]

the pulllers are only $10-15..well worth it...also some pentrating oil the night before and ice on top 10 minutes before and it will come off like butter:smile: