Oil in Spark Plug Cylinder

[rdavis0627]

Do not be too concerned about it showing a oil filter.
That same model number engine used two different sumps, one with a oil filter and one without. The oil filter type is mostly for show to make you really got something better.
Usually just use straight 30w oil. Be extra careful when tightening the taper threaded oil drain plug, you can easily crack the aluminum sump at the thread boss if you strong wrist it. The sump is little wimpy weak in that area.
Best to use about 3 layers of teflon tape on the 3/8 pipe plug and just get it snug. I sometimes install a 6 inch length of 3/8 pipe nipple and use a cap on the end of the nipple so as the oil will drain outside of the frame into a catch pan.
The valve cover is the only good info for your engine. Most likely has the correct info and is the right cover.
You got lucky that the camshaft compression release was good.

Hey StarTech, I put 5w 30 synthetic oil in it off something I found about a recommendation from B & S, how bad is what I've done?

 

[StarTech]

That is fine; although, I have upgrade my customers to 15W50 synthetic but I am in the South where Summer temps are getting a lot hotter. Heavier oils just makes hardier to start in cold weather.

My neighbor across the road has a Toyota PU that is running 0W-20 synthetic oil.

 

[rdavis0627]

That is fine; although, I have upgrade my customers to 15W50 synthetic but I am in the South where Summer temps are getting a lot hotter. Heavier oils just makes hardier to start in cold weather.

My neighbor across the road has a Toyota PU that is running 0W-20 synthetic oil.

Thanks for the update I live in Delaware so it can vary quite a bit from cold to really hot, and I'm just nuts enough to get out there and either cut grass or mulch leaves depending on the season lol

 

[rdavis0627]

Hey StarTech, I put 5w 30 synthetic oil in it off something I found about a recommendation from B & S, how bad is what I've done?

Hi I'm re-replying to this thread as the mower lasted a couple of cuts then I noticed some smoking toward the end it went through a lot of oil. I pulled the plug and yup oily plug again. Is there something I could of missed it sounded and ran really good for those couple of times after I replaced the head gasket.
Getting ready to pull the head again is there anything I can check or should check?

 

[7394]

Do a "leak down" test to determine if the leak is from the rings or the valves /seals up the guides

 

[StarTech]

Hi I'm re-replying to this thread as the mower lasted a couple of cuts then I noticed some smoking toward the end it went through a lot of oil. I pulled the plug and yup oily plug again. Is there something I could of missed it sounded and ran really good for those couple of times after I replaced the head gasket.
Getting ready to pull the head again is there anything I can check or should check?

When you did the head gasket did you check the cylinder head gasket surface for flatness? I have seen a few to be warped.

Also did you torque to 250 in/lbs using the three step torque procedure and followed the torquing sequence in the service manual?

 

[rdavis0627]

When you did the head gasket did you check the cylinder head gasket surface for flatness? I have seen a few to be warped.

Also did you torque to 250 in/lbs using the three step torque procedure and followed the torquing sequence in the service manual?

Hi, Good morning, I did not check it for flatness going to look up some you tubes to see how that should be done, I believe I torqued them to 250in/lbs which I believe is about 18ft/lbs. Not sure about the 3 step torque though so I'll attempt to find that information as well, I'm not sure I had the service manual but maybe I do somewhere on this computer.
I will say I did take the head off and sure enough the gasket was shot, I had purchased off amazon and the one I got was not OEM so the new one I ordered I purchased right from B&S.

 

[Forest#2]

If the next one leaks take notice of the area of leakage.
Sometimes you can flat sand a head on a piece of glass and see the area of warpage and sand it flat again but if it's the block you might have to try two gaskets and not the weak China Amazon types.

 

[rdavis0627]

Do a "leak down" test to determine if the leak is from the rings or the valves /seals up the guides

Hi, I saw that on you tube I don't have that tool. Did not think about pricing one as yet.

If the next one leaks take notice of the area of leakage.
Sometimes you can flat sand a head on a piece of glass and see the area of warpage and sand it flat again but if it's the block you might have to try two gaskets and not the weak China Amazon types.

Thank you

 

[Forest#2]

I use a leak down tester quite often. I can test new to me non running engines on a test bench before even trying to fix them for a run test. Lets me know if they are worth the effort to get running. I've found bad valves, bad rings, bad head gaskets on non-running engines.
I have a OTC.
HF sells one.