Oil Change
- Thread starter indio51
- Start date
cpurvis
Lawn Addict
You've got three identical posts on this. You don't need to flood the forum with posts on the same question.
It's also just as easy for you to do the internet search for an answer as it is for someone else.
ferrisbuehler16
Forum Newbie
I’ve done research and can’t find it
tigercat
Well-Known Member
SAE 30 would be a good choice. I run Royal Purple full synthetic. I don't know the amount needed, but I'd guess 2-3 quarts with filter. Add some and check it, add more check it again. Fire it up to fill up the filter, then top it off.
Once you know the level, right it on the wall or something, then next time there is less checking.:smile:
Once you know the level, right it on the wall or something, then next time there is less checking.:smile:
ferrisbuehler16
Forum Newbie
Thank you. So not a 15w30 or something like that?
cruzenmike
Well-Known Member
Plain and simple, multi-viscosity oils are not necessary unless you plan to operate when outside air temperatures (cold engine temp) are below 50 degrees f. If you plan to run it when colder than that, use 10w-30. This comes directly from the engine manual from your engine.
As for synthetic, it isn't necessary either. Small engine oils are specifically formulated for small, air cooled, engines and therefore using anything else will likely show you no noticeable improvement in how the equipment runs.
Routine maintenance in itself, is so much more important than what oil you run. I have a Briggs V-twin with over 500 hours on it, always gets Briggs Filter and Briggs SAE 30 oil and after each summer the engine has not burned a drop of oil, and it is still golden yellow/brown after 50 hours of run time. I flush the oil with every change and I only run non-ethanol 90 octane, but I do that with ALL of my.small engine powered equipment.
As for synthetic, it isn't necessary either. Small engine oils are specifically formulated for small, air cooled, engines and therefore using anything else will likely show you no noticeable improvement in how the equipment runs.
Routine maintenance in itself, is so much more important than what oil you run. I have a Briggs V-twin with over 500 hours on it, always gets Briggs Filter and Briggs SAE 30 oil and after each summer the engine has not burned a drop of oil, and it is still golden yellow/brown after 50 hours of run time. I flush the oil with every change and I only run non-ethanol 90 octane, but I do that with ALL of my.small engine powered equipment.
jekjr
Lawn Addict
We run Walmart Super Tech 10W30. Been running it for several years. No problems. We have three Tiger Cats with Kawasaki 22 hp engines. Try to change them at 50 hours but some times it goes a good bit longer. We always change oil and filter at the same time.
I have one that has 1700+ hours on it. One that is in the 1000 hour range and one that is around 750 hours. If it will deliver that for under the conditions we run them then I don't believe anybody on this forum runs em any harder than we do cutting Pensacola Bahia grass in the Southern heat of South Alabama.
I have one that has 1700+ hours on it. One that is in the 1000 hour range and one that is around 750 hours. If it will deliver that for under the conditions we run them then I don't believe anybody on this forum runs em any harder than we do cutting Pensacola Bahia grass in the Southern heat of South Alabama.
bertsmobile1
Lawn Royalty
Yep,
When it come to motor oils the most important thing is how long it has been in there.
Everything else runs a poor second.
A cheap oil changed regularly is a lot better then an expensive oil left in for too long.
Ideally mower oil should be changed at the end of every season.
When it come to motor oils the most important thing is how long it has been in there.
Everything else runs a poor second.
A cheap oil changed regularly is a lot better then an expensive oil left in for too long.
Ideally mower oil should be changed at the end of every season.
jekjr
Lawn Addict
The higher price oil sells for normally the more successful their advertising campaign has been. If it has the certifications on the bottle it is good oil.
mcdonell
Active Member
I am convinced that changing at 50 hrs is the way to go. jekjr has proved Walmart oil has worked well with his 3 commercial run rigs.
My Cheetah 27 hp Kawasaki recommends 40 weight oil in the ambient temps I mow. Guess I paid too much for oil with the case of Royal Purple 40wt I bought for the Scag. I will file all this away for future reference.