Off topic.. Reading a micrometer

greene

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How can I insure I am reading it right and it is accurate?
You can look for a manual online. You'll need to check that your mic is calibrated correctly.
And YouTube usually comes to the rescue to teach us stuff.
 

deverdon

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I agree the pictures are not great, I read it as .9996. If the Zero on the thimble was on the zero line on the barrell it would be 1.0000"
 

RolandW

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I see $9.0 + .75 + .24 + .004 or .006 ($9.994 or $9.996) depending on the photo. A full revolution is .025" and it is almost that. 4 turns on that one is .1" If one wants to work it backwards, unscrewing it .0004 would make it 1.000" which is barely showing as the 4th hack mark. 1.000" minus .0004 would be .9996". Another way is that is about 1/2 a hatch mark on the barrel from a full1.000" inch. If it was screwed in to the first hatch mark it would be .001" less than 1.000" or .999". Since it is about 1/2 a hatch mark it is about .9995". The fine division is a 4 or a 6 depending on the actual angle the viewer looks at. The photos are not all that good which does not help.
This appears to be correct. That's a good tip to unscrew it to the 1.000 mark, which is easy to identify. Then when you seat it again on the object you're measuring if it moves about half a thousandth, it is about 0.9995. Since I got spoiled by digital micrometers a long time ago, I use this crutch a lot to make sure I don't misread an analog mic (or a digital one with a dead battery). Back it off to the next full .025" mark and then count the thousandths that go by when you close it again.
You can use the vernier scale to read the "tenths" (shorthand that machinists use for ten-thousandths) if you want to go that far. But if you're doing work where tenths are important, then you probably won't be using instruments from Harbor Freight. ;)
A 0-1" mic won't come with a setting standard as you can simply close it all the way and it should read 0.0000. A 1-2" would come with a 1" standard, a 2-3" with a 2" standard, and so on.
New mics come with a spanner that you can use to twist the barrel during calibration so it reads correctly.
If you want to check your 0-1" mic at any measurement other than 0 you'll need gage blocks, or you can measure an object with it and then compare that to what you get with another instrument that you trust.
 

Chartman

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I have not used this type of micrometer, but I have used (and taught the use of) others.
They can be tricky.
From your first picture here is what I see and what I'm guessing.
You have a fixed scale near the bottom with numbers 0,1,2,...9,0
These numbers look like centimeters to me, but I could be wrong.
You have a barrel that you turn to adjust the jaws of the micrometer.
There are four divisions between the fixed scale numbers,
so it looks like it takes four full turns of the barrel to back off the jaws by one cm.
(Are there 25 numbers on the barrel scale?)
The position of the end of the barrel on the fixed scale gives you the coarse reading.
When the zero on the barrel scale lines up exactly with the line just above the fixed scale,
the end of the barrel should be EXACTLY on one of the fixed scale marks;
either a number or one of the 1/4 cm hash lines.
If this is not true, there is usually a set screw somehow accessible that you can adjust to make this true.
Without going into too much detail here,
you can usually find how far between fixed scale hash marks you have turned the barrel by looking for a line on the barrel scale
that lines up exactly with one of the horizontal numbered lines around the fixed scale cylinder.
You may have to add 0.025, 0.05, or .075 cm to the barrel scale reading
(depending on which of the four turns past a whole cm mark you are on)
to get the right fraction of a cm to add to the coarse reading.

I don't know if I have this "all" right,
but I think there is some sense in it.
(...or maybe not?)
 

fastcat

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Every mark ,or line , equals .025 thousands . One revolution is .025 . Turn out four revolutions and you will have .100 of an inch .So turn out twice , to 2nd, line is .050 of an inch , keep turning and what ever number you come to add that to .050 . Mic a known diameter . say a 1/4" bolt . Read the mic , it will probubly read .247-.248 thousnths of an inch . Go from there . Take a set of feeler gages , they are marked .005,.007,.025 and so on . Mic them and look at thr reading , Stack them up , add them up , mic them and look at the reading . You'll get it eventually , promise .
 

Dicks mower parts

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How can I insure I am reading it right and it is accurate?
It is almost to 1 in I think you are very close 999 and 6/10. There should be a master in the box you need to zero it in so you read 1.0000 loosen the thumb drive to adjust then tighten
 

fastcat

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You can look for a manual online. You'll need to check that your mic is calibrated correctly.
And YouTube usually comes to the rescue to teach us stuff.
this is reading .375 , or 3/8"
 

midlandsd60

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Hello to everyone at Lawn Mower Forum. I'm long time member and this is my 1st post. I'm a machinist by trade for last 45 years and I spent many years teaching Precision Manufacturing at local community college that I attended in the 1970's. The following links are to L.S. Starrett micrometer videos.

: Part 1 - Introduction and terminology.
: Part 2 - How to read a Micrometer
: Part 3 - How to read a Metric Micrometer
: Part 4 - Accuracy, Adjustments, and Maintenance

I showed videos part 1, part 2, & part 4 when I taught and it really helped beginners understand micrometers quickly.
If students wanted they could watch the metric video on their own because we only had inch micrometers.

Good Luck.
 

JJBear53

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All micrometers read an inch at a time. 1-2"; 2-3" etc. Each small segment measures .025"(between the 1-9 numbers); Each large segment with four lines measures one hundred thousandths .100" -.200"; .300-.400 etc. The other scale is tenths, .0001"; .0002" you look to see which two tenth lines are lined up together and add those to the other numbers. Think of a dollar, four quarters and a dime and add them all up to get your reading.
Go onto the Mitutoyo or Starrett tool website and they may have more written details. Like sgkent mentioned, it requires some technique in handling. It's not a c-clamp!
 
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